Meinherr49

Question to anyone here who has had a simmular problem to mine .
An 88 Formula 350 TPI with aftermarket shorty Headers ( Flow Tech * ) that has gone through 4 Starters in a years time do to Header Heat Damage to the Starter , and the Starter Solenoid . I am hoping that installing a Remote Starter Solenoid might correct this problem , but before I invest the time and Money to install one , I was wondering if there might be another solution to it . My Starter does have a Heat Shield Wrap on it , but it seems it's not enough to protect the starter from Heat damage . Any thoughts fellow 3RD Gen. Members ?

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Relocating your solenoid probably won`t do you any good. Look for a large sheet of heat reflective material (Summit, Jegs, JC Whitney, Pep Boys)and try to wrap all the exposed areas of your starter and solenoid. Even with the heat shield wrap you now have it probably is not enough. You can use thin stainless wire to help tie it on. I had this problem on my El Camino and this solved it. You might also go through and check all of your wiring to the starter and solenoid, 4 starters in a year are 3 too many. If there is room between your headers and starter, you can also try to make an additional heat shield out of some thin gauge sheet metal, just make sure nothing is touching the headers. If you have any exhaust gaskets near the starter, make sure they are not leaking and blowing hot exhaust gas on the starter.

Meinherr49

Thanks for replying jimdutro . My exhust system is all welded Stainless Steel with no Leaks , but the y Pipe the Headers connect to is about 5 inches directly below the Starter and Solenoid . 2 of the Starters I had installed failed due to being Defective Rebuilts I was told . the Third Failed due to Heat Damage in July 2007 . I could try what you suggest , but I do not see how a metal shield could mount under the starter , and directly about the exhust system . I see no room there for it to be attatched . Any Ideas as to how I could do it ? The Tranny Crossmember perhaps , with some kind of fabricated Bracket the Heat shield could be supported with ? I do not have this problem in the Winter months , only in the Summer . Also , my Engine Temp is always between 210 and 220 , even in the Summer , and I do not see that as a possible contributing cause for it either . ..........

raptor80dad

If the closest exhaust pipe is 5" away from the starter I dont think it would over heat the starter .I have long tubes on mine , maybe 2" away at most and would overheat the starter and not start till it cooled .I wrapped it w/ a small heat shield blanket and it works fine now.
What brand starter are you using ? Mine is a delco rebuild .Dont know if there may be a difference in quality if you have another brand.
Probably not much help here but good luck .


you could also wrap the exhaust by the starter and see if that helps .

cooter26

iTrader: (1)

Ther are alot of heatshields out there, i have seen some that use bolts and screws of the starter to hold them on and some that use the starter mounting bolts to hold them on. Google it for some pics.

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

My next suggestion was to try another brand or auto parts store when it is time to replace your starter again. I have run across "bad" parts several times in a row before so it is not out of the question you could have gotten several "bad" rebuilt starters. Raptor80dad had a good suggestion. Try wrapping the exhaust pipe nearest the starter with some type of muffler repair cloth or tape (something made for high heat)then wrap some heat shield material around that, you could attach it with wire or hose clamps. The heat shield wrap material installed directly on the pipe would probably damage it. My Iroc sits so low to the ground and my back is in such bad shape I can`t get under the car so I can`t get a good idea of where you could mount a small piece of sheet metal to act as a heat deflector. I am thinking of maybe attaching a heat shield to your exhaust with a muffler clamp or hose clamp? I have done similar things with using sheet metal to protect a gas valve in a fireplace. All you need is an inch or two air-gap between each surface.You sound pretty sharp so if it is do-able I am sure you can figure it out. Let me know how it goes.

Meinherr49

All 4 Starters were AC Delco Rebuilds . I also found out this paticular 88 Firebird Formula I own from that GM factory production year , had 4 Different Starter Model Options in the Firebirds made with the 350 Chevy Motor . Maybe a Wrong Model of Starter I had put in ? I just don't know.

Meinherr49

Interesting Idea there man , Thanks. It is also funny how these cars were built with pretty low to the ground front ends , to accomodate the ' Air Dam " system of Cooling . Unfortunately for those who have Headers on their 3RD Gen Firebirds , not much Air passes under the Car because of that , and Heat does build up under the Car near the Bellhousing area I noticed .

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

4 different starters huh? It would be interesting to know what the differences are between them. What kind of shape is your flywheel in? Notice any abnormal wear on the teeth, both starter and flywheel? I wonder if there is a way to find the "correct" part number from your vin number. That may be something to get from an old established Pontiac dealer or mechanic. The tech archives on this site may have something. The parts books that most auto parts stores have probably don`t show more than 2 different starters for your application. If your model and year are a "crossover" year that would explain a lot. I`ve run into that can of worms before. My `88 Iroc is so close to the ground I can`t even get my floor jack under it! Looks like time to get some ramps. I will see what I can come up with on your 4 different starters.

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

So far all I have found is that starters for automatic and stick shift are different on the nose piece. Using the wrong one could mean the starter is not fully seating. Other than that, don`t know, I will keep looking.

bilms01

A couple other things to think about. Replace the battery cable with bigger guage or maybe just new stock size. AIf there is a higher resistance it could cause the starter motor to draw more current and operate hotter, which will shorten the life of the starter. Another possibility could be the exhaust from the y-pipe back not flowing well enough to scavenge the system well enough, a good flowing exhaust can actually reduce underhood temps.

I would suggest the new or better cables first, all the solenoid relocation kit does effectively if replace the cables the starter still functions the same and in the same location. The heat shield if a good idea. I think Summit has heat blankets.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=+115&y=2&x=27

Meinherr49

Thanks man . Some very good suggestions there , especially checking the condition of the Starter battery Cable . Another thing , I had my Tranny Rebuilt including a new flywheel back in May 2007 . The Flywheels Teeth are all Ok .

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

Don`t forget to check the condition of your grounds. Good luck.

driver8

I had a similar problem I went to a mini starter and wraped it with heat sheets I never had problem again

TraviZ

iTrader: (2)

return your stock junk and purchase a hitachi psl-100 starter. its mini, fully clockable on the starter and is gear reduction 1.4 hp. you will never be happier.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Just thought i'd point out, many (MANY) people run uncoated headers, and never have a problem with heat damaging their headers. I'm one of those people. I'm still using my 305 stock starter on my 10:1 350, no problems at all.
I'm not trying to brag, i'm just saying that you shouldn't run out to the aftermarket to find solutions, ie, heat shields, wrap, etc. A good aftermarket starter isn't a bad idea, but there's no reason a stock one shouldn't work.
I'd look at things like wiring, as mentioned. The power wire from battery to starter, ground wire from block to firewall, and battery to engine block (usually at the alternator bracket) can all be replaced for about $20 or so, with nice new 4AWG, or 2AWG wire.
That should clear that all up.