Metal Tech

the car is a 92 camaro rs/305/5spd. I'm using Winaldl, set for 8746 ecm, 2400 baud w/Moates aldl to usb adapter. I can get Winaldl to connect to ecm, but no data from sensors. Little box on top of Winaldl flashes red/grey background and 2-3 alternately. I also get streaming info on MW2 ( 192-226), Promida ( 122 or so) and Promidb ( 0-12-49). I tried moving the switch on the aldl to usb adapter and didn't get much of a change except the idle speed increased. Can someone give me some insight as to what I am doing wrong. I already tried TunerPro RT and I couldn't get any info from the ecm. I downloaded every 8746 .bin I could find and the .ecu files and none seemed to work with TunerProRT. Thanks for any help

Al

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Alright you should ask Moates he roams the boards however if the connector is like mine I can give you a little help. The idle rising when you switch it would probably be the computer switching to ALDL mode from an extra resistor. In the other position in might be in codes. I'm sure Moates will be along to give you help, he know his stuff.

91RockS

I remember having the same problem. I believe changing the baud fixed it (4800 baud I think).

Metal Tech

Yes, changing the baud rate to 4800 fixed the problem. I emailed Craig Moates and he gave that bit of info. Now to just figure out why it's running so rich at idle, .653 - .754 O2. It's amazing how far off the factory gauges are, 250 rpm the on tach alone.

Al

JPrevost

Don't trust the narrow band at idle! Also, .800mv isn't always "rich" at idle. It could be lean enough for a misfire. Too much timing, not enough, etc. Idle is one of the hardest things to tune in an 8746. The easiest way to get an idle is to find out what your idle SA is set at and make sure it's within reason. Then it's a blend of testing fuel, then SA, go both ways but change only 1 thing at a time, this way it'll take about 8 bins instead of 30 to get a good idle. Also, exhaust leaks are a BIG problem at idle. I just finished tuning a car with an exhaust leak, at idle his cam was pulling 38kpa which means the exhaust is more than likely going to be sucking in fresh air (at higher exhaust volume you hear the ticking where exhaust is pushing out).

Metal Tech

I'm new at this and learning. The .6-.7 O2 readings were from a cold (overnight cool down) startup, no driving, just idleing. I drove it 4 hrs later and from the datalog the O2 was .460. I'm hoping I can use the factory service manual & datalogs to pinpoint where my gas mileage is going. 200 miles/tank is all I get. Thanks for the info JP.

Al

91RockS

JP, is "idle SA" the same as the initial spark advance parameter? What do you mean when you say "Then it's a blend of testing fuel"? Do mean testing different brands or octanes of fuel?

JPrevost

I mean add fuel by like 10%ve, then subtrace. Do the same for SA only use 4 degrees to ruff it in and then like 2 or even 1 once you get close. Also don't go by spark counts as an indicator for how much timing you can put into a tune. At low engine speeds I can't even trigger the knock sensor and that's even AFTER I remembered to lower the knock rpm threshold to 600rpm and the speed threshold to 0mph. The reason the OEM code has 10mph and 1000rpm as the limit is to prevent the starter from pulling 20+ degrees of timing out on a startup. I'd rather have had them use code that just had a timer based knock count ignore so it would ignore the false counts but still monitor it all the time... then again I can't pick up knock at low engine speeds so maybe they couldn't on a stock motor so it would be pointless. One of those things that you wish you could ask the engineers.