liquidh8

As it says, I cant seem to get the tuner pro rt and the usb autoprom to data log. I have a 7747 ecm, $42 mask. Super new to this stuff so any help would be appreciated. I have to figure out how to get the thing running good. Looking at all the tables is like chinese to me. hehe.

liquidh8

anybody here in the phila pa area that maybe can get me pointed in the right direction?? Figured I'd ask. Thanx

liquidh8

anybody here in the phila pa area that maybe can get me pointed in the right direction?? Figured I'd ask. Thanx

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

com port settings all on #1 or the same com port?

i start car then up load rt 4.0. did not connect first attempt but did remainder of attempts.

liquidh8

yes, I hve em all set to com 4. I did get winaldl to work, donwloaded to try it out. But for some reason can't get tunerpro to datalog.

justlearning

dont even know if this applies here since im not even to the datalog point and am a complete newb but ive seen two diff. schematics for the cable one shows a resistor bridging a and p ports and the other shows no resistor....ive read that if u have the resistor it cant be connected till after startup or it wont work. like i say i dont even know if this applies so everyone please dont flame me cause id want all the help i could get also just thought id throw that out there just in case.

never mind i think i miss read this i think u purchased the aldl connector if thats the case i very seriously doubt this would apply so sorry just ignore this post please. and like i said please dont flame me i was just tryin to help!!

liquidh8

just learning, I'm a complete noob too. Just got all my gear 2 days ago. I'll have to try what you said though because I had the aldl plug connected before I started the car up. I kinda hosed myself though because I built a hopped up version of the vortec 330, just a bigger comp fi cam and 9.5:1 comp. The thing runs REAL rich @ idle, the blm's are like 108. But I don't fully understand the VE tables?? to adjust the fuel at idle. I've been reading old posts for 3 days strait now, I think I have to read more. I have the 7747 ECM, there isn't as much info on this one as say, the 730. Wish there was a bin for a vortec 330horse 350 w/tbi out there. I'd probobly be better off.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Goes back to teaching one to fish
Even if someone did give you a bin it would need to be tweaked for your car. There is no magic bullet but help is out there for you.
Reading and gaining some more understanding will take you allot farther (and safer) than you probably realize at this point.
Keep at it, it will get fun. Frustrating some times in the early stages of getting a handle on what to do next when the info can be overwhelming. Just make small changes and watch that things do as expected.
Many things in the tuning guide (in the stickies) apply in general operational terms so browse and soak up as much as you can that is relevant.

justlearning

no i didnt mean the whole aldl cable i meant like there r a bunch of diagrams floting around on how to build your own and for a 160 baud (tbi) there r two diff. ones one has a bridge w/ a resistor between a and b on aldl connector and other does not the one that does can not have the resistor hooked up till after start up or u will supposedly not be able to datalog...but if u bought one i doubt this stuff would apply to u its more for the diy aldl connector cable group.

and yeah im just starting at the other end im starting tryin to learn the stuff w/ the .bin editor program tunerpro and not w/ the datalogging and i know what absolutly nothing means even after reading the stickies a couple of times...like they talk about AE but theres about five different tables/graphs dealing w/ AE. i still cant even figure out how to get the egr not to come on in the constants cause theres many diff. constants dealing w/ this i got the temp one figured out by just turning the on temp all the way up but theres an rpm, speed, etc... so dont feel too bad. i just hope i can get it other wise i will have a crapy running 305 w/ a bunch of mods on it and nothin to show for it.lol good luck and you will need it if your as good as understanding this stuff as i am.

John

liquidh8

I did go through alot of the tuning guides. I'm just not sure with the flags in my xdf file. I got it from the tunerpro site, haven't found any other ecu or xdf file for the 7747. would be nice to get another. The flags aren't all that descriptive in the xdf file I have. Some are self explanitory, but others are questionable to me. I think I got the EGR shut off, turned of the code light and what not. Not sure what to do with the rest of the EGR tables. My main concern is getting it to idle without stalling and running so rich. I read the idle post 2 times but the tables are all different from what was in the post. Anyone with experiance in the 7747 idle could point me in the right direction that would be great. I also found a spark table from a lt1 iron headed engine to try with my engine with the vortec heads. I can't drive the car cause it runs like crap. I'm facing a steep learning curve here, having a hard time climbing the hill here.

hehe

liquidh8

thanx John, I don't feel as out of place now. What ever I learn I be glad to share. I did do a little bit of datlogging with the winaldl, just in park a revving to about 2000rpm. I notice the BLM's were @ 108 the whole time. I REALLY have to figure out the fuel tables, ve, afr and the like.

Jim

luke4907

iTrader: (5)

You might want to consider that there are calculations that the computer makes based on the load that is on the engine. If you are just revving your engine in park or neutral, there is hardly any load placed on your engine compared to when you are driving it around or at WOT. If you tune your car to what it idles with no load then it might run totally different when you pull it out of your driveway. Just something to think about.

luke4907

iTrader: (5)

Well there's a few things you should check. First, there's some switches on the back of your autoprom which change the resistance between the connections of the A-B ports on your diagnostic port. Some computers need no resistance, some need 10k I think it is (which is what the middle setting is for), and some need infinite resistance (no connection). That should be the switch that goes up and down and has 3 different positions. Try connecting your equipment, run tunerpro, start car, plug in aldl cable into car, then connect to the ECM. If that doesn't work, move the 3-position switch to some other setting, and try again. If that doesn't work, try the last one. If that doesn't work, unplug your equipment, restart your laptop, and try again.

And if all else fails, contact Craig Moates. His support is wonderful and he'll get you running, or he'll replace your equipment if it's faulty. Welcome, and good luck

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Start with insuring the IAC and TPS are set correctly.
See the tech artilcles off the main board for the procedures.
Do a quick once around the block and stop. Go easy and stay off the throttle, just a light cruise below 3000 rpm is best to start with.
Take that data you collected and figure the BLM to be 128 is perfect (not adding/subtracting fuel) then figure the difference in the cells that you were hitting by reference of the RPM and the MAP value.
Take the difference from 128 in that cell and add/subtract 1/2 of the difference.
Then do another quick run around the block. After a few times You should get some cells reletivly close to where it runs decent.
Try to smooth out the surrounding cells but don't make too many changes too fast. That will get you going in circles.
Take your time.
Save your bin each time before you make changes so you can fall back if you do make a move that was too aggressive.

liquidh8

I realized that from tuning carbs, load verse no-load. It's just that it won't idle without me keeping my foot in the pedal. That's why I never left the driveway. It's running so rich, the oil is starting to get fuel in it. I can tell that by pulling the PCV out, and the blm goes up a few numbers. Just have to figure out the prom tuning thing. I started to get the emulator working, but I need to get the G2 adapter, it's on the way. Then I'll see how bad I hacked my bin. lol.

liquidh8

Jp, thanx for the insite, I'll try it out when I get the datalogging working. Lukem thank you also. I haven't tried starting the car the hooking up the aldl cable. I REALLY appreciate all the replies.

Z69

There is a lot of 747 info.
Just not all of it here.
You can read the 746 info to as it will apply.
Have you gone back through the stickies again?
Here is a Link for the 747. Which was the first ecm/bin hacked.
There is a whole section just for your ecm.
Read it several times. Some people take 2-3 reads. Others it might take 10. If you get stuck, do a search on that term.
Still can't find it- ask for help.
No offense, but coming here and saying"I can't get my car to run right, please help" won't get you too far. Know what parts you have in your combo and what software your running. IDK won't get you too far.
Everyone has been through it. Till you understand a the simple stuff. It is real hard for someone to get across a concept because you may lack the knowlege of the terminology to understand what is being presented.
Like JP said, start with the basics, make sure your TPS & FP & timing are set correct.
For the 747 you have to ensure your injectors match the BPW setting in the bin. This trips up a lot of people. Till you get it right you'll be chasing your tail and disappointment.
I've seen a number of people post a lot of questions about the BPW setting. Search around for it. Look up all the terms you don't understand. Make sure you know what each term is.
You'll hear BPW in reference to a 7730 and a 7747. They aren't done the same in ea bin. You'll get confused till you know what at least 1 version is. Find how the injector pulse width is calculated. It is listed in a few places.
This will help you know how each term in the calc affects the fuel. Some are an addition while other are a multiplier. Add 2 is a lot different than multiply by 2 or 0.5.
Read the Turbo P4 doc. It can help tie things togethor even if it doesn't apply to your ecm.
Once you get all your basics down, follow the startup threads. There are a few in the stickies. Once you've done some changes, watch your o2 sensor and follow your nose. If the two don't match, your nose is usually correct.
Then go for a very light drive. Does it surge? Not enough fuel. Or too much timing. Is it kind of flat? Then the oposite- more fuel or timing. It's the same as a carb.
Except you have to set everything for the fuel curve.
The ecm will only self correct to a certain point.
Lots of info up top. You just need to learn the terminology.
Then which way to move "X" setting. The originals had to pick a direction and see what happens. You have a lot more info available than they did.

justlearning

thanks Z69 i know this is not my thread but i am too a newb and dont understand this really at all yet but im tryin. that was a good short explanation as to how somethings work especially the simple diagnosis to tune partially on how your car feels to u. im gonna do a search and see if there is one already and if not im gonna try and start a thread that could make it to sticky status...it would be for newbs like me and just kinda have a brief description or deffinition of the things u see in a .bin editor (PE, AE, EGR vs TPS etc...) i know u couldnt fully explain it in depth but just a small discription kinda like this ex.

PE- power enrichment= starts after 3/4 throttle and changes timing and fuel....or what ever really happens i just know what it stands for lol but just an example. well time to do that search i guess. it would just kinda be a round up for deffinitions that people like my self could print and have next to them when looking at the editor instead of searching one deff. at a time. thanks

John

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The VE table is basically the fuel table. A lower value has the injectors delivering less fuel, higher value, more fuel. With the BLM's @108 and stock fuel pressure and injectors, I would start by lowering the VE values. Mostly in the idle area, as this is where the current issue is (area located by RPM and MAP).

Once you start driving the car more BLM cells will be filled in. Those areas of the VE table can then be changed.

RBob.

luke4907

iTrader: (5)

I'd really like to see a sticky glossary for all the terms with their abbreviations and synonyms, and a brief explanation of what they do. Maybe I just haven't found it yet?

liquidh8

As Luke said, it would be cool to see a few stickies for the brand new guys. With all the tables, which way to move the numbers, up or down, etc. I have done alot of post searching and found alot of that info out. It would have been eaisier if it were in the new to prom section, in lamens terms just for the real newbies. But you guys are great and I thank you for helping me out. I won't get to get back into the car for a few days so I'll post my result when I do. I'll be getting my G2 adapter and ZIF socket tomorrow, (says UPS), from Craig. I'll start like was said with the IAC and TPS, though I know the TPS is already set. It's at .56 volts. Then I'll take it from there. Still would like to know what all the flags are for in the 747 xdf I have though. hehe.

Jim

justlearning

well i dont know about the which way to move things cause that all would depend on what your situation is and would involve alot of variables but ill try and start a thread tonight and put a list of all the terms it would be nice to explain....and ill pm the diy prom, and tbi moderators and recomend it for a sticky ( dont know if itll work but its worth a try i guess) and ill try and do some research and start the list too but itll be difficult cause i have no way to be sure if the deff. i find are correct....but then once all the terms have been explained ill edit the top list w/ all the terms and such in the format i listed as an example.

John

liquidh8

just learning,

Sounds like a great idea. If I could be of any help lemme know, PM me.

Mangus

Steps for datalogging a 7747 with TunerPro and AutoProm:

1) On the AutoProm, make sure the horizontal switch is set AWAY form the USB port (or serial port if thats what you have)
2) Make sure the vertical switch is in the middle
3) Open TunerPro
4) Go to preferences, select ALDL tab
5) Select the COM port (in your case, sounds like 4)
6) Select the interface type. For passthrough (which you're using), select MAX232
7) Accept changes
8) Hit F4 to open the ALDL interface setup screen
9) Load the 7747 ADS file
10) Attach the AutoProm to your PC
11) Attach the cable to your car/truck
11.5) Turn the car on (engine running or not) - (thanks JP86SS)
12) Hit connect

There may be a pause between connection and data xfer.

That should get you going.

M

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

11.5) Turn the key on or start the engine. (no power, no talkie)

liquidh8

thankxs jp and magnus. will have to try it tomorrow, didn't get in till just now (2200 hrs my time) I should also have my G2 adapter tomorrow by the time I get home from work. I'll let you's guy's know how I make out.

Jim

liquidh8

well, unfortunately tomorrow is here, and as always with UPS and FEDeX, no G2 adapter or ZIF socket. I paid for 3 day and end up getting like 5 day. Never fails with items that I buy mail order. Anyway, just ranting, When I do get them, I'll start out with the Datalogging, the idle, and let you's guys know how I made out.

Mangus

Keep in mind the items are coming from southern Louisiana. UPS/FedEx are likely not even close to full speed down there.

liquidh8

I know. I checked the UPS site and it was in Philadelphia this morning. It just got rescheduled for delivery. Happens to me all the time. If not that, then they say they can't find my house, though there is a big A address on my huge steel mailbox out front. lol

liquidh8

I know. I checked the UPS site and it was in Philadelphia this morning. It just got rescheduled for delivery. Happens to me all the time. If not that, then they say they can't find my house, though there is a big A address on my huge steel mailbox out front. lol

SB406

When I started tuning, I had the same BLM=108 problem. Turns out, in the bin, there's constants for max and min BLM. Guess what the Min BLM is stock.......you guessed it....108.

The BLM is an indication of "how much" the ecm is compensating to achieve 14.7:1 AFR in closed loop . With the lower limit set to 108, the ecm can only compensate that much. Where the BLM would usually show up lower (if it wasn't for the limit) you just end up with a really rich running motor.

My suggestion is this....drop the min BLM value to something real low like 70. That way, you will be able to see some useful feedback from ALDL because the ecm will be compensating correctly. I'll bet you'll see #'s much lower than 108. By getting the corerect BLM's (which the ecm uses in it's next iteration of fueling calculations), the car will be driveable, and therefore tunable.

I learned this while sitting on the side of the road.....truck not moving....blowing fuel out the pipes.....cussing up a storm.

liquidh8

as soon as I can get the autoprom to emulate I'll try that out. I was looking at those tables and wanted to try lowering the MINblm table. Thanx for the info.