is it any good? im on moates.com now and i have the ostrich 2.0 and the datalog cable in the cart for my truck, as well as the o-meter with the lc1 w/sensor combo. i need to have a wideband, but is this the best choice for the money? is it hard to use? i wont lie, i pretty much dont have clue what im doing, iv been reading, i have a basic idea, and i know i can learn anything i want to once i get to work with it hands on. but for ow i need some help so i dont order the wrong stuff. i have 500$ worth in my cart, which is allot of money to me, almost all i have, and im really nervous becasue im ordering things i don't know how to use, but i really have to. ---------- o yea, and i dont need the socket booster for the ostrich 2.0 do i? its got the 7427 ecm, i know that im buying the right stuff, i know a guy with the same truck as me who has the same stuff, so im just doing the same thing, i just dont know enough about the wideband thing.

No you shouldn't need the socket booster, that ECM used a 27c256 EPROM originally I'm quite sure.

You will need a G1 adaptor. I had one of those ECMs in my hand today, and should have counted the pins on the MEMCAL, but looked to be very much the same as the P4 style ECM. 7730/7749/etc.

excuse my ignorance, but i don't have a clue what a g1 adapter is. what is a g1 adapter and why do i need it? thanks for the reply.

Go to moates.net, look under adaptors, GM, you'll see it.

ok, thanks. so, i have one last thing i need to make sure of. iv been told there is a way to tie a wideband 02 sensor to my ecm through the egr pin, since i dont have an erg anyway, is there any truth to this? is it a good idea? my cart has gotten up to 530$ with the o-meter and id really like to save some money somewhere, its getting to be too expensive already.

im looking on ebay and i see that the lc1 wideband controller is soemthing you read through plugging into your laptop. it didnt say this on moates, i thought you needed a guage. so is the Innovate LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ O2 Sensor something you read by plugging into your laptop?

heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=004

also, i notice it plugs into a serial port, my laptop does not have one, would it be a big deal to get some sort of universal usb adapter?

once again, i know i probably sound like a moron, but its my first time, and i dont have a clue what im doing.

i was told i need the real time emulator, but cant i burn chips cheeper?

so it cost about the same to do either the o-meter form moates, or the ebay kit which seems to come with alot more for only 199$ and then the 30$ serial adapter for my laptop. so which one would you guys rather use? the o-meter, or a laptop, any benefits to the laptop as apposed to having a seperate guage readout? im thinking the laptop is the way to go... but im a noob lol

The LC1 can be used by displaying the output strickly on a Laptop, through Log Work 2 or Log Works 3, I think 3 is still beta, but available for download from the Innovate website.
You don't need to use a gauge, but it is nice to have the display in an easy to see area, as opposed to on the laptop screen sitting on the passenger seat.
A nicer way is to be able to datalog through the ALDL stream.
I'm not sure what it takes to have the WBO2 work through the ECM to be displayed in the ALDL stream. I use code59, which has this done already.
I think there's some information in the FAQ in this forum about adding that, but gets into hex code modification and might be a bit overwhelming if you're not really into hex.
I used a USB to serial adaptor with my LC1, I did this to program the outputs and at first to compare the readings between Log Works and the ALDL dash in Tuner Pro RT, and see how close it was, it was very close, so I no longer use the serial out of the LC1.

You don't need a real time emulator, like the Ostrich 2.0, but it does make tuning SO much easier and quicker, to see the smallest change take effect right away and to know that the right changes are being made.

You can start with burning chips, and then move into emulation when you feel you can afford to lay out the cash, personally I feel that it will pay for itself in a very short amount of time just in time saved.

ok, thanks for all the info. i think ill pay the extra 15$ and get the o-meter setup, and just pay for the emulator, it would be kind of ridiculous to burn a whole chip anytime i want to make a small change. i feel overwhelmed just understanding half of the simplest stuff you guys are saying no less even thinking about wiring the wideband into my ecm. im still really worried about actually being able to tune my truck. could any jackass like myself really tune a truck?

its official, im tuning. the stuff is being ordered. thanks for the help six shooter.

Yes it's true and yes it's a good ideal.

To do this you will need to connect the analog 2 wire (brown) to pin B-16 at the PCM. The two grounds need to be wired to the cylinder head. A separate wire for each with lugs soldered on. Bolt the heater ground up with the stock O2 sensor heater ground (I think this is on the rear of the head in your truck, it is on mine). Bolt the other ground up beside the other ground, on the same head. Make sure these connections are clean. Wire the rest per Innovate directions.

Bin modifications:

1. Flag (L400D)(bit 1) Linear EGR/EVRV EGR, must be set.

2. Flag (L400D)(bit 2) Back pressure EGR, is not set.

3. Flag (L400D)(bit 3) EGR Off in Open Loop, is not set.

4. Flag (L400D)(bit 4) EGR Off at Idle, is not set.

5. Flag (L400D)(bit 5) Use L4780 Table for %EGR, must be set.

6. Flag (L5B02)(bit 6) Error 32 - EGR Fault, is not set.

7. Constants: All EGR on/off settings should be set to the maximum value.

8. Table (L4704) Desired EGR vs. RPM vs. Load (vac or map) must all be set to 0.0 or the WB02 will affect fueling.

9. Table (L4783) Fuel Reduction % w/ EGR on vs. RPM vs. VAC must all be set to 0.0 or the WB02 will affect fueling.


I included chip addresses because the names between different tuning programs will vary, but the chip address will not. In TunerPro, when you click on a item in the definition list, at the bottom of the screen, you will see the address displayed.

Datalog set-up:

1. Datamaster: In Datamaster go to the Help section click on Contents, the Welcome to Datamaster screen will come up, on the left is a menu, click on using Datamaster, drop down to Using The Graft and Snapshot Display, click, on main page scroll down to Changing Graft Assignments.

The information here will allow you to change what is grafted in the snap shot display. Chose to graft the EGR Raw %. The text value in the snap shot display (for example) will read something like 47.6, to arrive at AFR, move decimal one place and add a 1. the example wound be 14.76
AFR.

2. TunerPro RT: You will need to install the correct .ads file. Look here for more info:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...data-real.html

Also, look here for a .ads file already set up:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/...ing-files.html

HaulnA$$ is the man to thank for this modification.

Most people seem to think that I'm a jackass and I managed to tune my truck, so the answer is Yes!

so i still need the 200$ setup, not just the 80$ 02 sensor tho right? so im only saving 40$. or do i only need the 80$ wideband sensor.

I'm not sure what your saying, but the instructions above are for using the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 WBO2 meter and having it's data in the datalogs. Having a WBO2 gauge on the dash is an option. If your trying to cut costs, then you can due without the dash mounted gauge. Seeing the AFR in the datalogs is the most important.

Yes, you need the $200 LC1 W/sensor.

The sensor on it's own will not work by itself, it needs the controller.

ok, so your saying that im better off reading it in a data log through the ecm rather than lookign at the guage? so its not just about saving a few bucks, its actually better to see it through my ecm through a data log as apposed to reading it from a guage?

Both ways are good.

The gauge on the dash lets you know what is happening right then and there, the datalog lets you review what else was going on at the same time.

The dash mounted display will warn you if there are any problems that you should address by changing position of the throttle or speed.

ok, cool. so since it would only save me 43$, ill just do the guage, and then maybe i can wire it in and have the guage, or if its above my head, ill just have the guage.

ok, i went ahead and ordered it all up. i got the whole lc1 w/sensor setup with the o-meter, the ostrich 2.0, the chip adapter thing for the ostrich, and the datalog cable/extreme aldl combo thing, o yea, and my sweet free moates t-shirt! lol. all said and done i spent 543$ shipped. the local dynoshop(which proved to be a horrible shop after seeing my buddy get his 6.0 tuned their) quoted me 600$. and im going to build a 383 stroker motor next summer for this truck so i would have to pay to have my truck tuned 2 times, or just live with having to drive like a grandma like i have for the last 8 months. i think i definitely made the right choice by deciding to learn how to tune myself. i feel a massive headache and alot of posts on this website coming soon!