Jeffrey Fontaine

Last spring, I installed a new Autolite alternator from AAP because our '92 had flickering lights. Now, I think it might be dead again. I was driving home in traffic the other day and the car just died (the battery gauge was low, but not all the way). I pulled over, and it was cranking but wouldn't start. About 20 minutes later it started???

I have also been dealing with a battery that won't stay charged more than about 2-3 weeks. I had a Code Alarm installed, before this started happening (but not right before). Is it possible I need a diode or it is draining the battery and killing alternators???

I'm not sure what to check. I don't think it is a ground issue because the flickering was going away once the car warmed up (but now it continues to do it).

Thanks for any help
Jeff

Jeffrey Fontaine

TTT

Any ideas? I had the battery and alternator tested at Autozone today (off the car) and both passed...

Randy82WS7

light switch worn

connector corrosion

fuse panel connector loose


so many things it can be

if the battery wont stay charged and the battery and alt check good then you have a wiring connection issue


check connections at the alt and battery make sure they are clean dry and tight, if you can move them by hand then they are too loose to keep a connection and charge the battery no matter what you may think or what anyone may say, same with the charging wire at the alternator stud make sure its tight and clean,

and make sure the grounds are good from the engine to the firewall and from the battery to the engine

if the battery to engine one is bad then it wont crank at all, or like it should anyways

so you can eliminate this possibility right away if it cranks fine

i suspect bad switch or wiring harness connector in your case

pull apart anc check all of them that you can for the charging and headlight systems if any are dirty or wet then you need to correct it, dry them clean them wrap them up good with tape keep water out(jut ask the 95 taurus out here that was getting no power to the computer after we replaced the 3.0L with another one out of anohter taurus we junked last fall, ended up being a larger ground wire at the battery, a single connector, i had noticed it was warm to the touch and that means bad connection/resistance, i took it apart and it was very green nasty, cleaned it up and bam there was the computer light in the dash with key on like it was supposed to but wasnt doing before, car fired right up then finally haha)

always suspect components before wiring unless you find a bad wire or connector


switches and such are wear items and dont last forever or very long sometimes

for example multi function headlight cruise wiper switches on the column of later cars such as the 97 cavaliers

my buddy has one of these and he has to replace his multi function switch three times a year,
i replace them for him every time, he was just here a couple weeks ago for another one

the switches wear out and the headlights and such quit working on him

i put a new switch in and bam all the lights are again working perfectly for a few more months

had an astro van 1992 not too long ago couldnt figure out why no power to headlights or fuel pump relay under the hood

was really a crazy head scratcher, i was like WTF

finally figured out the fuseable link connector behind the battery on the firewall below the brake hydro booster there are four fuseable link wires acrossways in a row with a bolt in the middle holding it together and to the firewall

i took the connector apart by taking out the center bolt, one spade connector was totally melted, so i had to bypass it by cutting the link wire and crimping on a ring connector so i could put it on the the battery bolt stud there, and it was perfect ever since, owner of the van very happy to have the van back again after being stranded due to no start in a parking lot in which is where i had to trailer the van from to the shop


oh and a 94 chevy k1500 pickup, heater blower motor not working at all

checked wire at motor with key on and switch on, no power to motor

took dash apart, pulled blower switch wiring plug, melted badly, also for no reason at all


crazy things just happen for no reason on these later vehicles

you will have to search and hunt and hope

it sucks

welcome to the world of electrical systems


crazy things happen for no reason



good luck

Jeffrey Fontaine

I'm not sure. I tested it for draw on Saturday night, it said .06 mA, which seems incredibly low since my multimeter guide said under 100 was acceptable. When I pushed the lock button the alarm, it went up to 120 or so then dropped back down.

Fully charged the battery, and engaged the alarm. It sat until this morning, and started right up. BUT, the voltmeter was bouncing all other, between the mark above and below 12 volts. After it warmed up, it was pretty steady, alternating between 12 volts and mark above 12 volts every 10-20 seconds. Is that still normal? I don't understand why it is worse when cold?

If it was a bad switch, wouldn't that show up during the drawer test?

Also, I forgot that my Kenwood radio stopped working after the car died. Now it turns on (gets power), but I can't change stations/turn it up etc. It is a motorized flip face so it seems like it isn't engaging all the way? I pulled the fuse and it didn't make any difference...

Jeffrey Fontaine

Now that the weather has turned colder, I am again having this flickering problem. After driving ~5 minutes, it goes away. Any ideas? Its very unnerving to see the headlights flickering, and the volt gauge bouncing...

EDIT: I just want to clarify that I haven't been arming the alarm at night since its in a garage now, and that I haven't had to charge the battery or replace either the alternator or battery. I'm wondering what would happen if on a cold day I just turned on the headlights, whether they would flicker, or only after starting it...