Paragus77

So, two owners ago, someone decided it would be a good idea to put a Ford racing Solenoid in my car... This and a Chevy car obviously do not mix, because this is the second time it has failed in three months... I need to get this damn solenoid out of my car and have it rewired to stock. My mechanic says it would cost between $80 and $150 that i dont have. I've been slowly cutting my teeth into getting to know the car, small stuff like the A/C and minor body work. Now i don't have $150 to spend, but my car needs to start without a jumpbox...
THe offending solenoid is below. I always have to turn the key in the ignition and hook my jump box to the part circled in red, which i assume goes straight to the starter (i used to be able to turn the key in the ignition about 20 times and/or put it in nuetral and the car would start)... I tried connecting the wire directly to the ports on the battery and of course, it starts my car. Please help me out here if you can, i would GREATLY appreciate it, how nice it will be when the car starts when i turn the key...

++EDIT++ so i was reading up, and this is kinda a remote starter set up to get rid of hot start problems, right? then whats happening with my car, i noticed it wouldn't start when it gets cold here mostly...

Fullsizewagon

That solenoid is just a heavy-duty relay to get rid of voltage drops in the key wiring. It's helpful in dealing with hot-start problems.
You need to establish if there's a problem with the key wiring/ safety switch or if there's actually a problem with the relay or its grounding. There should be no need for a jump box, as you have established.
I see four posts on the relay. First is + from battery, second is from key, third I'm not sure, fourth is to starter solenoid.
You already tried to jump from the first(+) to the fourth post with success so you have established that the battery, -wiring, and starter are all good.
Now try to jump from the first to the second post. If that also works then it's a key wiring issue. If it doesn't work then the solenoid isn't working, either because it's faulty or it's lacking a proper ground.

Paragus77

Well jumping at the second and third posts didn't work, but I hope the solenoid isn't broken, because as you can see in the pics, it's pretty much brand new . I saw a diagram for wiring it like this the other day, I'm going to check against the wiring in my car, and if everything looks right i'll just go buy another solenoid.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

I agree with Mr. Wagon, it looks like the solenoid isn't grounded properly.

You can take the red wire from the 4th post and bolt it onto the 2nd post. Try cranking with your key now. It should work like stock again. If it does, feel free to remove the top positive terminal from the battery and from the 1st relay post.

And if you want to revert it back to completely stock, follow the wire from the 2nd post (strip the loom) until you find purple color. Attach that to the small terminal on the starter solenoid (where the red wire is probably now) and you're done. Of course, remove the red wire.

Hope this helps.
Lou

P.S.: If you need more detailed instructions, PM me and I'll send you my number.

Paragus77

i got a new solenoid with my warranty, i'll try wiring it like you suggested tomorrow, if i have any problems i'll pm you, and thank you SO much for your help!

uemf

FYI

The 2 small connections on the solenoid should be marked with an "I" and an "S". the "S" is the voltage in to activate the solenoid and the ones I've worked with in the past use a chassis ground with the metal body of the solenoid.
The other post (marked with an "I" and unused in the photo) is 12V out to bypass the dropping resistor (if used ) to provide a higher voltage to the coil during starting ( higher voltage to coil means hotter spark )

I know this isn't really any help to you but ... inquiring minds .... probably don't care

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Nono, it's good info, uemf!
I forgot about the I&S special solenoids. Yup, they used them mostly on ignition systems with coil resistor wire. Believe it or not, I still have an engine like that!
Anyway, if this is an I&S solenoid, it's likely self-grounding through the mounting bracket. Which changes the troubleshooting a little bit.

Lou

Paragus77

tried wiring the new solenoid up normal, with the ground to the s port, like it was originally. Nothing, even mounted beneath the coolant tank the car won't start. Should i try wiring the red wire to the second post, or just go to my mechanic? lol

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Yes, please try attaching the red wire (from the 4th post) to the second post (leave the original wire there). That should revert the car to stock starting.

To be safer, you can remove the top positive battery terminal (just in case).

Lou

Paragus77

will try and let you know, btw, i found this in the solenoid's box, and i dont know if i should be worried or not:

Paragus77

dang, i tried the second post with the original wire still connected. battery unconnected at first, and then connected... and i got nothing at all...

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Don't worry about the warning, it's for idiots who might connect it to the ECM. This is a "lawyer disclosure" so that idiots can't sue them for being idiots.

When you put the red wire on the second post, the key wouldn't crank the engine? You might have a problem somewhere else then. How many times did you try?

Also, if you disconnect the red wire and just momentarily touch it to the positive battery terminal (it will SPARK a little), it should turn over the starter.

Lou

Paragus77

yea, it does spark and turn over, which is what is confusing me, this solenoid can't be bad i just bought it yesterday! Yet touching the red wire to the battery makes it turn over. I think I'm going to go from scratch with my friend's dad who was a mechanic in the military and we are gonna install a start button with all new wires, solenoid etc. But thank you once again for all of your help.