ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

I have 50K miles on my 1989 TTA and it is stock and it always started up right away and I never have any problems with it. I was flushing my power steering fluid and was turing the car on and off. I would turn it on for 5 seconds and let the power steering drain into a bottle and then turining it off and refilling the power steering fluid. I did this 6 times. On the seventh time I turned it on, with the new power steering fluid and let it run for 1 minute and turned off. I was going to flush it one more time and on the eighth time when I turned the key it would not start.

All the lights work(interior/exterior and don't dim when I turn the key). I have 12.5 V to the battery(which is brand new). The Security light in the dash comes but then turns of in 2 seconds but the Check Engine light stay on. The other thing I noticed is that there is a little black box right next to the battey in front that one of the connectors came off? And there is black goo all over the connectors and inside the connectors like something had melted. I opened the black box and it was clean inside and nothing seemed to be missing or burnt. I clean the connectors (as much as I could, they are still have goo inside them ) and reconnected the black box and I hear a clicking sound. What is this black box and why did the connectors have black goo inside them.

Is my problem this black box or the soleniod/starter?

Thanks,

Rob

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a relay. How many pins are on it?

jv9999

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like your fan relay. I think your starter is gone or more accurately the starter solenoid.

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

3 on one side and 3 on the other.

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

Goo should be the OEM dielectric grease....sounds like a relay for something like stated above- fan, horn, fuel pump, not sure....never seen a TTA engine compartment in person, or worked on one. Follow the wires and see where they terminate in the engine bay.

Have you tried it w/ the relay disco'd? Also, you should be able to pick up a new relay at your choice of parts stores for about $10 or so, if it is bad.

I'm leaning towards the starter solenoid at this point, too. Our cars are notorius for the solenoids crapping out, suffering heat soak, etc.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Rob, before you go out and start buying parts that you don't need, you want to find out WHAT the probem is.

Now first of all, a box with single connectors doesn't sound like factory. All factory relays and devices have a connector that houses all pins. If you can disconnect each wire separately from the black box, it's gotta be aftermarket (alarm etc).

Second of all, pictures are worth a thousand words. If you don't own a digital camera or camera cell phone, get a buddy or neighbor to snap a picture, it will help us help you.

Third, you need to tell us what exactly is happening. A no-start condition is a very vague term. Does the starter only click? Does it crank? Does it fire but die? All these are VERY different conditions.

Give us some input and we'll try our best to help.
Lou

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

When I turn the key there is no clicking sound, nothing. All the dumby lights on the dash come on and then go off.

But I did go under the car and try to jump start the solenoid and spraks flew but the starter did not work. I try 5 times. Then I turned the key and nothing. Then I banged the starter with a hammer and few times. Turned the kwy and nothing. Then I noticed the box poped off. Then I attached it again. Turned the key and it started.

Here is a pic of the black box and starter. What kind of starter do I have? I know its not stock.

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

What kind of starter is this?

9014josh

iTrader: (1)

looks like a factory starter to me..i just had to replace mine...kinda sucked,make sure your connections on the battery are good too

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

Could you please tell me what brand, model #, where you bought it and how much?

Thanks,

Rob

P.S.

I think the black box is a Cooling Fan Relay/Delay. I just don't know why it keeps poping off and if that would cause the car not to start.

andresinibus

the black box is used to record all the conversations between you and the control tower just in case your car ever goes down in flames JK. Any autoparts will give you a direct replacement for your starter just give them you cars info (year, make, model, engine size, auto or stick and color) yeah the'll ask you for all that good luck

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

X2 on both OEM starter, and checking connections.

My 86 used to decide it was't going to start every now and then.....turned out to be a loose connection from the neg batt to the body. Double check ALL your connections- Pos and Neg- at the batt and where they terminate. Then pull the starter to get it tested- most parts stores will do that for no charge.

On a side note, is that burned poo looking stuff gooey, or hard.....it almost looks like an epoxy that has been overheated.....doesn't look at all like the dielectric grease I've seen in my connections.

ROBERTDMERRILL

iTrader: (1)

The burned poo looking stuff is gooey. I try to wipe it off everytime I disconnect it. I everytime I reconnect it, it clicks.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

I heard someone say (and don't quote me on this), that if the relay is clicking it is bad.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Lucky you, I have the same problem only i've already checked all the connections, removed aftermarket starter kill, entire alarm, read battery voltages when it does and doesn't want to start, tested ignition module, starter/solenoid, next is disable vats.

89RsPower!

That part number on the "black box" comes up as a fan relay.. shouldn't have anything to do with the car starting at all.. chances are it started as a result of u hitting it with the hammer.. If thats the case you may be able to get away with just replacing the solenoid, but it's kinda old so replacing the whole starter wouldn't hurt anything. Chances are you don't want the same starter that guy above got.. it probably doesn't fit a TTA.. Any part store should be able to get you something so basic as a starter solenoid or a starter. Also I sent you a pm, check it out.

thirdgen_man718

Hey guys Great Info btw, thanks to all! I am having starting problems my self, and have been off and on for the past couple months I would say randomly consistently. My problems were consisted off the car not starting, and when it would start would drag on the starter. When I say not starting, I mean I would turn the ignition on and everything comes on the lights fuel pump everything. I first was hoping terminals on the battery posts needed a cleaning so I did that. Still the same result, I just recently put a new starter and solenoid in it, recently as in last week. Everything went well and the dragging seems to be fixed, the car sounds very healthy when starting and its a great feeling. I thought I had it all fixed so I drop by my local parts store today to return my core and I come back out with my $10 core exchange , and the car wont start. Ignition comes on fuel pump starts just does not turn over as its randomly done so many times. So I tried tapping on the battery mounts, nothing. I get the guy from autozone to jump me and it starts up first try. The last couple times its died on me I just waited and looked/checking over things in the engine bay making sure all connections were tight and it started. Only on one other occasion I did jump it and it started right away. Alternator is charging and the battery does have a good 12. something volts. Im frustrated to what it could be... electronical? Computer has never been replaced. I have all new msd ignition parts, wires, bosh plugs. Ive heard of VATS but unsure of what it is and exactly does. Just not have had a chance to research it. Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The car is the one to the left under my name, the 89 Iroc. Thanks again ahead of time guys!

andresinibus

have the guys at autozone do a test on the battery anyways just because it shows 12 volts it doesnt means it is a good battery if its not bad it might be on the way out good luck.

thirdgen_man718

Nxt post!

thirdgen_man718

I did have them test it, twice. Both times it read good with 833 Cranking Amps, and 12.5 volts. We were going to test the alternator but it would not start up, again lol. So he tried to jump me and it did nothing, had plenty of juice in both batteries to start. When trying to crank it the voltage on the battery does go down it went from 12.4 to 12.3 to 12.2, etc. just dont start. So I went inside the store and see if I could get a new ignition lock cylinder, came back out and it started right up. Just yesterday I did a ignitiong lock cylinder replacement. Got a new one from GM dealer. I put it in and I tried to start it up but it did the same thing, I then switched the alarm to the on position and hit the unlock doors button and it fired right up then... and has started everytime since that. The alarm is very sensative on it. Both my alarm electronic keyring locks are broken. Sometimes it makes a strange "Tic Toc" sound inside the car after hooking the battery back up. The Original owner did say if it was armed the car would not start, but when I flip the switch to off it still didnt start at those times. Not sure what kind of alarm it has, Im guessing stock or whatever came with the car.

groundrat

iTrader: (3)

Unless the lock cylinder was broken it will have nothing to do with the car not starting. All it does is turn the actual switch inside the column. Next time it does not start have a friend and a voltmeter handy. Jack up the car and measure the voltage on the starter solenoid small post. If you have 12 volts when the key is turned to start, your starter is bad.

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

relays are suppose to "click". they are basically a magnetic switch that is triggered by a low amp supply, when the magnet energizes it pulls a set of contacts together to complete the high amp circuit. hence the "click"

HawkZ28

iTrader: (2)

My personal recommendation.....ditch the alarm for a new one. Period. Or just scrap the alarm. That sounds like your problem IMHO.

FYI- you should have a starter kill bypass switch somewhere. A 'valet' switch if you will.

thirdgen_man718

Well its continuing its horrible process. Went to Kroger tonight not messing with the alarm or anything.... I parked, went in got a turkey came back out and it didnt start. I then proceeded to take the key out of the ignition take a deep breath, put it back in and tried to turn it over and it starts right up. LOL, ill look further into that alarm let ya guys know how it turns out! Thanks!

thirdgen_man718

Thanks man! Appreciate the input, ill try the reading next time im under the car which looks to be soon!