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Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

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Old 03-22-2010, 06:29 AM   #1
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Location: Scenic, Idaho
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Car: 1985 CAMARO IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4

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Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

I've only owned the car for 2 weeks; 85 IROC; 305 700R4; tilt column; I was trying to get the ignition switch to turn into the accessory position--- it always felt like it was worn out, or broken and it actually got stuck in the acc position; I tried EVERY possible motion to get it unstuck; at the 30 min mark I got pissed and turned the ignition switch with the grip of death. SNAP!

Yeah, that was pretty stupid--- so the key turns freely now--- I started the car, but when I turn the key to the off position; nothing happens; car stays running; so I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off.

So.... what do you think my total damage is? Ignition Switch Cylinder? or did I destroy my steering column--- many chinese plastic internal pieces ruined or what? I mean the mechanism that keeps you from pushing the shifter button down, isn't even doing anything.

I'm getting a puller and lock depressor toomorrow; but I'm just wondering what else I'm gonna need to fix it; and what my potential damage might be.

Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:19 AM   #2
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

It probably just broke the lock cylinder. If by chance something on the column itself broke, best bet would be to get another column.
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:24 AM   #3
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

theres a rod the runs down the steering column from the lock cylinder to an electronic ignition switch. if it starts but doesnt turn off, you may have snapped it. but you can inspect the switch and make sure the rod is in the correct slot on the switch. im not sure if you can fix a snapped rod or not, you may have to replace the column if its broken.
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:42 PM   #4
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

If you want to replace ignition switch and never done it or is unsure how todo it, I made a post here with pictures and info how to get to it : http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/po...71-post19.html

also in that same thread : http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/po...940-post4.html
I also attached picture how to change Igntion lock cylinder. (if someone would have problems with that)


Just loosen the steering column and check if it looks fine, and check the metal pin going from the igntiion lock that engages the ignition switch. replace if needed.
__________________
Dan Norberg, Sweden - 1989 IROC-Z, Metallic Blue, T-Tops

Engine: TPiS Airfoil / MSD 8366 Distributor / MSD Blastercoil (48.000Volts) / MSD 8.5 mm
Ignition Wires / Custom PROM [ by me ] / Holley AFPR / Bosch III 22lbs Injectors / Autometer Cobalt
Vacuum, Air/Fuel Ratio & Fuel Pressure gauges / Exide Maxxima Battery / K&N Airfilter / Hitatchi
Ministarter 2,0 kW / Adjusted TPS / New IAC
Drivetrain: Th700R4 Tranny / Borg Warner / 3.27 Gears
Interior: Exotic Burlwood dash / Grey clothing / Stereo : Kenwood KDC-6031 / DLS CA21 / MDS 2x12"
Exterior: 15" IROC Rims (Dunlop SP Sport 01) / Tinted backwindow / Neon undercar kit (blue)
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:18 AM   #5
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

whoa thanks, that helps out a ton! I took the steering column down, and got the ignition switch off--- that was not fun at all! I've got a feeling that I tweaked it pretty bad. the rod for the ignition switch was pretty loose, so hopefully a new switch will fix it. (i replaced the lock cylinder also)

but heres what I'm wondering when I get my new switch; how do you deal with the trans lock out cable, the ignition switch, brights switch, etc all at the same time--- is there a trick to being able to get at that stuff easier? also how do you know which position to leave the ignition switch in when adjusting that rod? hopefully it only goes on one way...
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:09 AM   #6
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Car: 1985 CAMARO IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column? (written how-to)

OK, got it all fixed thanks!

When I got the ignition switch off; it was completely destroyed inside. If you look at the switch, it looks fine; but if you turn it to the side where the rod goes in, the plastic was completely seperated inside. causing the switch to not be able to turn off.

Just a word to those who have the same problem; never force your switches; it only causes damage; just go buy a new lock cylinder and igntion switch (all for 35 bucks)

If anyone wonders how to disassemble all this, heres the steps I took.
(if you would like pics, send me a message; otherwise here's some 30 really bad steps purposely written to confuse you)

-DISCLAIMER- I DIDN'T TELL YOU NOTHIN!

What I did to replace my ignition switch on a
1985 IROC; 305TPI; 700R4; TILT COLUMN
===================================

1. Disconnect negative battery cable & Remove Steering wheel; mark it

2. Remove front seat (unless your too lazy to remove 4 seat bolts, to save your back and neck from killing you while trying to work in there)

3. remove lower panel (that covers all the wires)

4. remove filler panel (small rectangular filler panel directly under steering column)

5. lower steering column (remove two 14mm nuts on steering column bracket; the steering column is on a universal joint that will allow you to lower it farther than you think)

6. remove steering column bracket (4 bolts)

7. CAREFULLY unplug all connectors in the general area and fold wires out of your way (most of them have little tabs you need to carefully pry up to release) ; it may be a good idea to take a picture of the area so you know how to put it back together; or label them all; if not, just remember where they go, they only go one way

8. Take a break--- stand up smoke a cigarette--- calm down. this job sucks; if you haven't taken the front seat out yet i feel your pain. your neck will hate you the next day

9. there are two rods on the steering column; the upper curved one leads you to the ignition switch. The ignition switch is mounted with 2 screws on the steering column; the headlight bright switch is directly underneath; that is where the lower rod goes. (make sure to unplug all the wires first) take a philips screw driver and remove the forward most screw

10. take a 7mm socket on a mini ratchet and loosen up the rear most bolt; remove headlight bright switch.

11. 7mm socket; loosen up the last bolt holding the ignition switch on.

12. The ignition switch also has a shifter lock mechanism attached with 2 tiny screws; lift up the igntion switch so the rod falls out; then pivot that switch so you can loosen the two screws; remove ignition switch;

13. inspect for damage; and compare to your new switch; test fit the mounting screws in your new switch with the old hardware (some of threads were off on mine)

14. remove shift cable from lock mechanism (thats still dangling in there); find the tab and push it in with a flat head screw driver while pulling out.

15. take your new igntion switch (the new lock mechanism should come pre attached to it; leave it on there) align the key way and push it in the ignition switch; turn the switch until you feel the square sides of the tab meet the inside of the lock mechanism. when you push it hard enough, you'll feel the lock mechanism pin up (its on a spring)--- push it on all the way until the tab snaps into place. this was very hard to do and almost caused me to want remove the whole steering column so I could get some leverage on that bastard.

16. if you take a small pair of vise grips; clamp onto backside of shift cable (not too tight) use that for leverage to pull the cable into the lock mechanism.

(at this point i found it helpful to pull out the brake light switch too--- its helpful when its not there when you are trying to align the switch)

17. position the ignition switch where it is to be mounted; slide that rod in its slot; screw in the forward screw loosely(philips) and pull the ignition switch towards you as hard as you can. (you want it as far forward as possible so your "starter" position of the switch will work right.

18. tighten the screw, and try and move the key back and forth; make sure all positions of the key feel like they are good. (starter position should spring back when you let go)

19. put in the rear bolt with 7mm; use red locktite on the threads; test the ignition switch positions again back and forth a bunch of times to brake it in. Try and push the button on the shifter down too; make sure its functioning when key is out.

20. unscrew your forward philips screw; put your bright switch on; put philips screw back in loosely.

(you may find it helpful to shove the column the right to give yourself more room)

21. position bright switch with rod in place; tighten philips scew when you find the bright switchs sweet spot

22. install rear bolt (my duralast ignition switch had different threads so I used a self tapping screw with the same thread to tap it, to fit the rear bolt)

23. make sure everything is tightened to this important torque spec: "Guten Teight" ---- but if you strip it, your screwed; so be careful.

24. cycle switch through all positions again; make sure it feels solid.

25. plug all your wires back in; make sure all wires are exactly where they were; inspect to make sure they are routed correctly.

26. install bracket, raise steering column, install mounting nuts.

27. hook up your battery and start it; make sure everything works; and feels right

28. reinstall, filler panel, wire cover panel.

29. reinstall steering wheel.

30. TEST DRIVE!



- DISCLAIMER - I DIDNT SAY NOTHIN!

and I didnt pay a shop 300 bucks to fix it for me!


ROCK AND ROLL...
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:26 AM   #7
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sweden
Posts: 915
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27

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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column? (written how-to)

Nice writing man, and im glad you found the problem.

Also if you want pictures to the manual above, visit my homepage : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/proj...tionswitch.htm

I took alot of pictures when I changed mine out (I always documentary all my projects/replacements).. Main page is http://irocz.info.se/ atm not everything is in english but im working on translating everything (or add the googletranslator to the page) But hopefully those pictures will be helpfull for other people who needs to replace it. Under the mainpage and Projects I have 35+ projects and replacements I made, with alot of pictures, so stop by there if you have any troubles and maybe I have a project how-to there :-)
__________________
Dan Norberg, Sweden - 1989 IROC-Z, Metallic Blue, T-Tops

Engine: TPiS Airfoil / MSD 8366 Distributor / MSD Blastercoil (48.000Volts) / MSD 8.5 mm
Ignition Wires / Custom PROM [ by me ] / Holley AFPR / Bosch III 22lbs Injectors / Autometer Cobalt
Vacuum, Air/Fuel Ratio & Fuel Pressure gauges / Exide Maxxima Battery / K&N Airfilter / Hitatchi
Ministarter 2,0 kW / Adjusted TPS / New IAC
Drivetrain: Th700R4 Tranny / Borg Warner / 3.27 Gears
Interior: Exotic Burlwood dash / Grey clothing / Stereo : Kenwood KDC-6031 / DLS CA21 / MDS 2x12"
Exterior: 15" IROC Rims (Dunlop SP Sport 01) / Tinted backwindow / Neon undercar kit (blue)
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:23 AM   #8
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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column? (written how-to)

thanks man! you helped me out a lot, i appreciate it. I'll check out the pics. hey I like your IROC, very clean.

peace
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:55 AM   #9
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Location: Indiana
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto

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Re: Help! Broken Ignition Switch? Steering Column?

This just happened word for word to me... ****. How hard is the replacement described in this thread and how much does it cost to do it yourself? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I've never taken apart a steering column
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:55 AM
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