tommyt

Its an 87 TA , going to a 468 BBC. The rest of the car will be upgraded accordingly. Using Hooker swap headers is out of the question, my subframe connectors are right there, where they would exit. Searching here I found something about Ed Quay headers, called them, they said they have two types, one for their own k-members and one for stock type cars with stock framerails. Anyone here ever used them?

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Good luck with the swap! I`d like to see those headers too

tommyt

Thanks. If it turns out half as good as Yours, I'll be happy. Those headers sound good. You get a choice of either 2" or 2 1/8 primaries, starting at $ 575...
I wonder what the catch is... I figure, can't any worse than them Hookers...
Someone here must know more about them...I hope...

ckeene502

good luck. i just bought my 454 last week need to start building. i have the hooker headders that have been jet hot coated. i will just have to wait and see how they do. i just can not decidr on a 5 speed or auto.

keene

10 SECONDS

Greezemonkey were did you get the a/c delete box? Will it fit an 82 TA? How much was the crossmenber and do you think it's as strong as the oem? PS: I have a 9.5 compression 502 in my 82 TA with 3.70 9" rear that has gone a best of 10.49 @ 129.88 this year in drive and the car's weight with driver and full tank of gas is 3900 lbs.

tommyt

How tall a tire did You use? What was Your peak RPM on the big end ? I was thinking about using a 3.23 or similar 9" with the short 1-2 planetary in my automatic...which would make it like a 3.42 in first. Depends on the motor and stall also, but I was worried about running out of RPMs using a 3.70 rear with the commonly used 26-27" tire...

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

got mine from a recycler in NH, I found this one but it`s expensive
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW
Yes I think it`ll fit but you`d better check with some pontiac guys first. The K member was around 400 but I bought a bunch of things in a package deal but thats what I`ve seen them sell for.
Got pic`s of that car of yours?

10 SECONDS

If you go to intensephotos.com, then Capitol Raceway and than to August 7 photos page 1 or 5, I think, you will see my RED 82 TA. it has a cowl type hood. This was my first new car. let me know what you think. I am on there on some other dates too. I cut my heater box than fiberglassed it in so it would still work (looks good) and lots of clearance for the valve cover.
I use 28 1/2" by 10 1/2" by 15" Phoenix slicks. My car crosses the finish line between 5950 and 6150 rpm's. My turbo 400 has a special 3.0 first gear, second gear is a little more than stock and third is 1 to 1. My best 60 ft. this year is a 1.43. I have a ATI 10" 3500 rated stall and leave at approx 2400 rpms on the foot brake. As I have said I leave the car in drive and it shifts itself at approx. 5950 rpms. I don't have a camera for my own pics so let me know if you found the pics from that web site. Oh and the 9" has a Detroit locker.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Nice! :hail:

tommyt

Nice car. Great times too. I'll be content if I run 11s on the motor. Then I'll just spray it with a BigShot ... One of the many reasons I am going to a BB is that it can take more NOS without grenading...
I have big plans, we'll see if my skills are up to it...

Motor City Mike

Yes. My '82 TA came from the factory w/o a/c. Looks like those a/c delete boxes are starting to get a little pricey.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Good luck.

tommyt

The project is slowly moving along. Here is what the combo is as of now. 10:1 CR
forged 4 bolt 468, rectangular port heads which I have not decied on valve sizes yet, but would like to go to 2.25 intakes,
RPM AirGap, 850DP . I am stuck on the camshaft. I would like to have a motor that will pull hard to 6500 and the more info I gather, the more I doubt that the hydraulic roller I have will rev that high. I am contemplating going with a solid roller. I have no issue with setting lash regularly, but I am worried about solid roller lifter durability on the street. I have heard of very frequent rebuilds/replacements of solid roller lifters in street driven cars. (by street driven, I mean like a weekend cruising type car, not daily driver). Its hard to get real info on this from the cam companies. What do You guys think?

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

on the lifters, if your pocket can take it, Comp Cams makes a solid roller that has presurized bearings, they are recomended for street and marine applications where long idle periods are normal.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

If you have'nt sunk any money into those heads yet, look for a set of oval ports, you will get alot more power especially in the rpm range your wanting to run. Rectangle ports are better for higher operating rpm range, where the oval ports will give you everything you need upto where the rectangle ports really start to work.

10 SECONDS

Believe it or not my pump gas 9.5 compression 502 runs Dart 265 cc oval port heads that have been ported by self. The heads flow 361cfm at .600 lift. That may be why it now has run a best of 10.44 at 129 mph with a 1.44 60 ft. on that pass thru full exhaust and at approx. 3900 lbs. weight. John Lingenfelter always made more hp on oval port heads all the way up to 540 cubes. PS: Go with big valves, I have 2.30's intakes, they cost the same money when I ordered the heads back in 94/95.

tommyt

I hear You guys on the heads, I have thought about this also. I have not started porting my rectangular ports yet, and I also have a set of large oval ports sitting in the garage. If I used a solid roller cam to turn 6500+ I think I would have stuck with the rectangulars, but I am beginning to wonder on if its a good idea to run a solid roller on the street that would need to idle a lot in traffic etc. May just go with a hydraulic roller, and hope to make it rev to around 6200-6300. I have a complete retrofit hydro-roller setup from Crane (Pn. 139641 , 234/242 .610/.632 112lsa cam) that I think I will try, since I already have it and payed big bucks for it.
With this cam, I would definitely go with oval ports... Maybe stick to a 2.19 intake valve also, to save a little weight , but I am not sure about this...

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I know guys do it all the time, but spinning anything over 6500+ is really starting to put a "fear factor" on longevity- ESPECIALLY with a BBC since that's an awful lotta weight to be sling'in around.

A "decent" motor will gladly live a long time shifting out between 6-6500, but imo for a street/strip type car, that's just not worth the chances since most guys dont plan on freshening up the motor every winter. If it's something your not going to drive on a daily basis though, so long as the lift is in check and not something found on a mountain motor with .800+ gross lift and you buy good rockers, pushrods, springs there is'nt a problem running one on the street. I'm very happy with mine and now that everything's been heat cycled, lash adjustiment is few and far between, but for racing I still make it a point every Fri night to check them so i know everythings as it should be.

I dont know if anybodies designed a rev kit for the bbc, but it'd be in your best intrest to do some digging around since they can add quite a bit of power in the upper rpm range by keeping the lifters from wanting to float.