DAVECS1

Another tip on the nose piece, I can offer, is do not put it on till absolutely last. I spent a couple years getting the body on my GTA just right. GM did not supply the greatest fitting parts. At any rate, as I was polishing up the nose of my GTA I noticed some waves across the top edge. Since my car hardly sees daylight, I wondered how they got there. Well as I was polishing up my engine compartment one day I noticed I had my knee inadvertently planted right on the nose. I did not even realize I had been doing this. I spent more money on the body than I did the original car and my own worst enemy is ME. So once you get that nose piece right, my advice would to be put it on last, and after you have put it on watch to make sure that when you thinking about how the hell your are going to get to that spark plug, that your not planting a knee to the old camaro!

bubbz89

so much for jerry springer, i am going to tune in on this thread here everyday. keep up the good work and thumbs up for taking time with your son to tackle this project...he will never forget it.

__________________
1990 RS Carbed 350 TH-350.MoneyPit
1988 Formula TPI 355 T-5...Sold
1989 RS TBI 305 T-5...Sold

kboehringer

DavesCS1,

Thanks for the reply. I can't tell you how many times I allowed the rivets or top button on my jeans to put a nasty scratch in my fender before I learned!!!

I use to keep a set of those rubberized fender covers in my TransAm's trunk and pull them out EVERY TIME I leaned over the fender.

Use to be that every auto parts store sold them cheap. Their name was plastered on them, but who cared? They were invaluable.

I haven't seen a set of fender covers on an auto parts shelf in years. I haven't looked online but somebody must have 'em. Once the Z-28 gets a good coat of paint we're gonna have to find some.

Sincerely,
Kurt

jojo22

Summit has fender covers. Might be a good idea to pick up a set now. Probably help teach Derik the importance of them. He'll pull them out as second nature by the time your ready for paint. Then he won't have to learn the hard way like you.

just my

DAVECS1

Well I posted and it disappeared so here is the short version.

1. I use the largest softest beach towels I can find, because I have found the fender covers can leave fine scratches in a thick layer of clear coat.

2. I know it is common sense to keep weight off of the nose, but I did not do it and if you look closely at the nose on my car you can see were the nose has been stressed at the upper fastners causing a slight wave at the top.

3. If you can afford it, an epoxy coat before primer does wonders in helping to get the body glass smooth.

Attached Images

side shot2.jpg (53.2 KB, 1032 views)

DAVECS1

One last thing. Metallic paint looks great in the sun, but you might is well right off trying to repair any minor damage. It is next to impossible to match. I an thinking about adding black flames to the front when I redo the nose, so I do not have to match.

DENN_SHAH

this is a great thread, its brought back a ton of memories of my dad & me doing things such as replacing the ball joints, rod bearings, points & adjusting the valves on his old 57 HEMI Desoto along with all the other things he taught me along the way. im sure Derek will remember this for the rest of his life.

i didn't see it mentioned, but the torque convertor clutch on a 700 is/was controlled by the ECM, but there is a work around for it.

http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthre...&highlight=TCC

or, if you can't find the switch locally, the switch is alittle better than 3 quarters the way down the page here,

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperf700r4.htm

having the TCC to where it will lockup under cruise would really help out on the gas mileage.



kind of sounds like if he does allow you & your wife to use it for a weekend trip to the beach, he may end up with another little brother or sister

five7kid

Reports vary, but a non-functioning TCC lock-up should only be done if the TC and tranny have been modified to eliminate it. Apparently, if not modified and not functional, excessive heat is built up and the 3-4 clutch pack will be hurt. I didn't believe the stories, now have no 2-3 shift at WOT - because of 3-4 clutch pack wear, they say.

Regardless, having a functional TCC lock-up is a very nice feature that allows you to have healthy stall for that good launch w/o excessive compromise on cruise quality.

kboehringer

We'd certainly return with a smile!

kboehringer

All,

The 350 (1974) block has the dipstick on the Driver Side, the current 305 (1983) has the dipstick on the Passenger side.

No big deal either side should have plenty of clearance for a lousy dipstick. The tubing bender might need some action but no problem there.

However, the old 350 block has the dipstick mounting in the top of the block's Driver's Side between Cyl's #5 & #7 (just in front of the second bolt from the rear). A rather large round indentation was provided in the original 350 heads (39989-3) to accomodate the dip stick.

We want to use the 305's heads (14014416) and there appears to be a very SMALL indentation in the same location. Unfortunately, the 305 heads are still installed in the vehicle and they are a bugger to see.

Has anyone dealt with this. Is the indentation on the 305 enough to accomodate the dipstick?

I have a couple photos that may be useful but I cannot access them from work. I'll have to post them later.

Sincerely,
Kurt

five7kid

I haven't personally, but from people who have on the Board, concensus is headers makes it a non-issue. If using manifolds, you'll either have to do some serious bending of the tube or use a flexible like Lokar.

sellmanb

Like Five7 said... headers will eliminate this problem. Since you plan to get headers before you fire up the new motor anyways (right?) this shouldnt be a problem for y'all!

kboehringer

Sellmanb & Five7,

I don't think I described the potential problem properly. I have attached a photo that will hopefully explain. The 350 Block has an "Internal" Dip Stick tube that requires a very short tube extension that inserts at the top of the block next to the base of the Head. A provision has been made in the "Original" 350 heads to accomodate the tube.

However, we wanted to use the 305 heads as a couple guys had suggested they would be better for a variety of reasons.

I cannot tell if there will be enough clearance to accomodate the 350's dip tube set-up aside the 305's heads. An indentation does exist on the 305 head but it may be a inadequate.

We will be using a set of the "shortie" headers and modifying the dip stick tube with a little twist or bend to avoid a problem with the brake system or another item will be a simple task.

However, if the 305 heads cannot clear the tube we're stuck with the original 350 heads regardless!

I think we're gonna be ok with the "305" Heads as the "350" block is actually a little wider (or protruding) in that area and the head will only need to accomodate a small portion of the tube. The little indent on the "305" heads should suffice.......


I hope the photo helps......

Respectfully,
Kurt Boehringer

Attached Images

z28_dipcompare1a.jpg (95.9 KB, 1028 views)

kboehringer

DENN_SHAH,

I read the post you indicated. I didn't fully understand some of it but as I've never really had a 100% understanding of Automatic Trannys (I prefer a Clutch 1,000,000%). I think I better read the post again, and again, and again. 'Cause it looks like I got more stuff to deal with in the Tranny area when Derek and I get ready to put this thing on the road.

Sincerely,
Kurt

Gummie

Since you guys are already tearing the car down so far, why not swap in a built T5 (the 305 5 speed) or a T56 (4th gen 6 speed)? A moderately built T5 should be able to hold up to your engine for the time being. If you wanted to, you could buy an aftermarket T5 that's significantly stronger than it's GM counter part. I don't remember who makes them, but I'm sure someone will chime in. A T56 wouldn't have any problems holding up, but would require some more effort installing.

As for the T56, here's some info:

The ultimate T56 guide (long read, might want to skip to another thread first)
http://www.skulte.com/T56.html

The T56 walkthrough
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=229205 (T56 swap - answers to questions that arnt normally covered.)

What year T56 to grab
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...hreadid=260450 (what year of t-56)

Info on the trans (gear ratios, etc)
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/6_speed.html

There's a lot more info out there and it does not take much effort to find it.

DAVECS1

I would be a little hesitant to use 305 heads on a 350. I have helped a couple guys do this, with limited success. You gain compression, but if you put the heads on without porting the quench area, you potentially have problems with detonation. From my experience the head has a smaller quench area that fits the 305 cylinder. This creates a ridge around the top of the cylinder that becomes a collecting area for hot spots, that can cause detonation. If you port the quench area you in decrease the compression. It will be a very fine line between gaining benifits from added compression and ridding your self of pre detonation. Just thought I would throw this out there.

five7kid

Port the 305 heads and install 1.94" intake valves (and 1.60" exhaust if you really want to go nuts).

As for clearance for the oil dip stick, if you need to grind away the edge to get the needed indentation, grind away.

kboehringer

Gummie,

Thanks for the reply. I am 1,000,000% in favor of a Stick.... Derek however is a little intimidated by it.

He's been learning to drive in my Accord (5-Speed) and is a long long way from being comfortable with a stick. *** forbid anyone is ever within 10' behind us on a hill at a stop sign! Their bumper is DOOMED!

After reading some of the articles on the changeover repairing the T700 and making it work properly will be easier, less expensive, and Derek will be driving sooner.

However, if we see a 3rd gen V8 with a 5-speed attached to it or 4th gen V-8 with a 6-Speed attached to it in any J.Yards we visit........ I can guarantee we'll buy it and find some room to store it (even if it's in the attic or the entry foyer closet) so we're ready to move to a manual if we decide to do so someday.

Thanks,
Kurt

kboehringer

DAVECS1,

I knew enough about the top end of the engine to wonder about the bore difference a little when we had been discussing this head swap online.

While I was at work today I showed one of my mechanics your note. He's a machinist with about 30+ years experience as a tool and die maker (non-CNC). He says he can bolt the heads up to our milling machine and cut the ridge(s) out with a fly-cutter. We can also mill quite a bit out of the edge of the head (to accomodate the dip stick) before we get anywhere near the head gasket.

Looks like we're puttin' those 305 heads on the 350!

Thanks all!!

Kurt

rocluvr0013

Wow this is an awesome thread. Kurt it looks like you and your boy have a great project going there, and it even makes me wish that i had spent less time in high school working and chasing girls and more time doing a restoration on my camaro with my dad! I commend you on saving time to do something like this with your son, and I hope to someday be able to do the same with mine.

I actually may be doing something similar with my dad when i go home from school this summer.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted on the project.

kboehringer

Rocluvr0013,

I think "chasing girls" is as important as restoring cars.......maybe more important?

We are having fun, and spending a lot more time together since the project started.

Kurt

flyitlikustolit

congrats, you've figured out how i pass emissions out here in Lawrenceville, and why i don't worry about it every year.... my car doesn't pass with or without cats, because my motor is too hopped up for the sniffer. and thank *** for rolling exemptions........ my 82 T/A is off the radar the same time your camaro is.

this is a great thing you two are doing. my dad got a 72 mgb to work on with me. i was gung-ho about it, even though i wasn't thrilled about the car. I pulled the motor, stripped a lot of interior, and got it ready for paint..... all without my dad ever helping or lifting a finger. it was really disheartening. I'm glad you and your son tackled it together. I wound up getting my t/a to piss my dad off.... now that i'm building a 383 chevy and a 468 pontiac, he's livid. mission accomplished..... AND my car is a lot of fun to drive. (at least when the motor is in it.) good luck!

-Josh

__________________
82 T/A- Midnight metallic blue, silver emblems, t-tops. 383 chevy, Eagle crank and rods, wiseco forged flat-tops, balanced assembly, SFI billet flywheel, Centerforce DF clutch/pressure plate, Centerforce pilot bearing and T/O bearing, Hurst shifter, Pro Products SFI balancer, performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 750 carb, MSD 6AL, MSD coil, MSD wires, world products sportsman II heads, comp roller rockers, custom solid roller cam, 180 degree thermostat, hayden dual electric fans, adjustable thermo control, summit aluminum radiator, hooker 2210 longtube headers, 4th gen rear w/ 3.42 gears, auburn pro posi, custom remote solenoid, spohn torque arm/swap x-member, spohn adjustable LCA's, spohn LCA relocation brackets, spohn adjustable panhard bar, spohn SFC's, spohn chrome moly sway bar set, eibach pro-kit springs, TDS wonderbar, KYB GR2 rear shocks, 97 T/A wheels, hawk brake pads, 4th gen rear discs.

DAVECS1

That sounds like a great plan, with the heads. I would take it easy on the material that is taken out of each chamber. I am not sure what types of tools you have, but you and your son could probably tackle this. I would completely disassemble the 350 block and clean the cylinder bores out good. Then I would loosely bolt the 305 heads to the block, and spray some of that blue machinest marking dye from the bottom of the cylinders up at the head. The I would take an air grinder and LIGHTLY soften the edges. I would then sand the work area smooth and hit it with some course polishing compound and a buff mounted on a drill. This would probably help you retain compression, and if by chance you or your son get crazy with the grinder, just buy a thin head gasket.

jojo22

Spohn carries them put the price is hefty.

kboehringer

Third Gen Friends,

The road is clear for rip and tear beginning tomorrow morning!!

Last evening Derek bead-blasted the 350 heads (just in case we might need them later they'll be cleaned up and ready for repair). We orderd a bunch of parts, Oil Pan, Gaskets, Oil Pump, Chain & Sprockets, and a few "BLING" items.

We visited the J.Yard early this morning and found an IROC 305 w/TBI. We could get the intake and TB for $60 with most of the items needed to use TBI if we were to go that route. However the wiring is hacked like ours (why do the dummies always hack the wires????????) and the computer was gone. We were about to pull the manifold and I though it looked a little funny. Like maybe the intake had a bit of an unusual shape. We're gonna take some photos and compare onsite before we spend the time pulling it off. We're still not 100% on the Intake/Carb/TBI system. We'll do some searches tomorrow eve to get more info.

Promised mom we'd tackle some House Projects next weekend Besides, we've broke our month's budget today on the parts we ordered and inner door panels we grabbed off the IROC. So tomorrow is our only real opportuity for two weeks.

Expect photos of some serious Grease Monkeys tomorrow eve.

Thanks guys,
Kurt & Derek

kboehringer

Third Gen Friends (way too many to name you all),

We've started off the day quickly on the rip and pull operation. Rather than asking 100 times "should we keep this" or "should we trash that". Like.........

The Harmonic Balancer on the 350 looks like crap, the 350 flex plate also has slighlty elongated holes..... etc. etc.

What parts can absolutely NOT (or should not) be transferred from the 305 to the 350?

We have very limited storage area. If you guys could tell us which items cannot be used with the 350 we can avoid cleaning and storing JUNK we'll never have a use for. Obviously Pistons are junk. Rods? Crank should be Trash? Timing Cover? Etc. Etc. Etc.

Thanks