Help a girl out...
#1
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Location: Fres-Yes, California
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Car: A beater.
Engine: Not enough HP.
Transmission: Automatic... I can't drive a stick!
Help a girl out...
Alright guys. So I went to start my 84 FB S/E today and lo' and behold... What'd I hear? An engine knock. I'm not TOO sure what that means, except that it's bad. Yeah, I know NOT to drive the car. And I'm not.
But I do want to keep the car driveable and completely stock. I'm not interested in soupin' it up or anything like that. (I get **** for saying that all that time... My car doens't need to impress anyone but myself. ) Anyways, is it possible to rebuild the engine? It's a stock 305 with the stock carb and everything. Anyways, I hope someone could give me some basic info... Thank you!
<3
Elle
But I do want to keep the car driveable and completely stock. I'm not interested in soupin' it up or anything like that. (I get **** for saying that all that time... My car doens't need to impress anyone but myself. ) Anyways, is it possible to rebuild the engine? It's a stock 305 with the stock carb and everything. Anyways, I hope someone could give me some basic info... Thank you!
<3
Elle
#3
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Car: 1985 TransAm
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4 auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BorgWarner
put some thick oil in her 10w40 with lucas oil stabilzer see what happens
also ur oil guage should be in the red with a knock , or oil press light on..
also ur oil guage should be in the red with a knock , or oil press light on..
#4
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Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
What do you mean by knock? There's a million things that could describe... does the engine run? Could be something stupid simple.
Last edited by ChillPhatCat; 04-14-2006 at 02:55 AM.
#5
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Formula 350TPI HARDTOP
Engine: 04- 350 Crate Motor with Crane Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi 3.73:1
Knock
Cheap Gas ? Try High Test .
Last edited by Meinherr49; 04-14-2006 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Pic.
#6
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You're going to have to have a mechanic look at it, no one can tell you whats wrong over the internet. If you don't like what he tells you (or beleive the mechanic) find another for a 2nd opinion.
#7
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Car: 99 Ford Ranger
Engine: 3.0 Flex Fuel V6
Transmission: The kind you have to change by hand
Cool, another Fresno person!
Basic knock is also known as detonation. It's when your engine ignites the gas that's in the chamber too early and causes an uneven flame, and when the two flames meet, it causes the "knock". If that is the issue, there are a number of things that could be wrong with it and that could fix it. One, youre running cheap gas. The octane numbers are basicly a measurement on how well it will prevent premature detonation due to its cooler temp. So running 91 octane, putting in an octane booster could help you there. Since youre car is stock I wouldnt really mess with the timing but that does help a lot, especially if your belts are slipping. So I would have that checked out and its safe to advance your timing on stock engines to +5, but after that you can start to cause damage. Older cars have a big issue with this. Why? Because of the pistons! Since the technology wasnt as perfection based as it is now, the pistons could have rough edges that can retain enough heat to ignite the fuel as it enters the chamber.
Just my $.02.
Basic knock is also known as detonation. It's when your engine ignites the gas that's in the chamber too early and causes an uneven flame, and when the two flames meet, it causes the "knock". If that is the issue, there are a number of things that could be wrong with it and that could fix it. One, youre running cheap gas. The octane numbers are basicly a measurement on how well it will prevent premature detonation due to its cooler temp. So running 91 octane, putting in an octane booster could help you there. Since youre car is stock I wouldnt really mess with the timing but that does help a lot, especially if your belts are slipping. So I would have that checked out and its safe to advance your timing on stock engines to +5, but after that you can start to cause damage. Older cars have a big issue with this. Why? Because of the pistons! Since the technology wasnt as perfection based as it is now, the pistons could have rough edges that can retain enough heat to ignite the fuel as it enters the chamber.
Just my $.02.
Last edited by Cerberus2k7; 04-18-2006 at 10:04 AM.
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#8
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Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
Just a thought, she might be experiencing Piston Slap... It's a problem with some newer GM V8's, dunno about the older ones.
#9
no one is gonna tell u for sure what it is over the net without lookin at it like Frank89IROC said u need someone to look at maybe get a 2nd opinion. lots of shops try to take advantage of peeps at least the places ive worked at do. if it is gonna need a rebuild i would say you'd be better off to swing a junkyard engine in it as far as price wise but then u also never know how long that engine will last.
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Car: 99 Ford Ranger
Engine: 3.0 Flex Fuel V6
Transmission: The kind you have to change by hand
Originally Posted by ChillPhatCat
Just a thought, she might be experiencing Piston Slap... It's a problem with some newer GM V8's, dunno about the older ones.
#11
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305s can not be rebuilt. Ever. They only have a running life of 100k miles. Why do you think every puts 350s in their camaro/firebirds. J/K
But anyway, check and see what the knock is first. It could be something stupid like an exhaust rattle or something. See where its coming from and if it gets louder at a certain rpm or gets louder with higher rpms. If its already knocking than letting it run for just a bit isnt going to make it much worse.
But anyway, check and see what the knock is first. It could be something stupid like an exhaust rattle or something. See where its coming from and if it gets louder at a certain rpm or gets louder with higher rpms. If its already knocking than letting it run for just a bit isnt going to make it much worse.
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