Sean2857

Just a quick question. I purchased a 383 rotating assembly (part # B13405E030) from Eagle. Specs can be found here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13405E030/ . what i need to know is, besides being bored .030, is there any other machine work that i need done to the block? thanks :-)

Camarslow

You're going to have to do some grinding at the bottom of the block in the oil pan rail area to clear the rotating assembly, it shouldn't take too much, and go slowly to avoid hitting a water jacket.

Sean2857

is that required with the kit that i purchased though? i know with a 400 crank and rods, a lot of machining is required. as far is this kit goes, wouldn't it just drop into place after the cylinders were bored out?

Camarslow

As I understand it using an actual 400 crank to make a 383 requires machine work because the main journals on the 400 are larger than the 350 and the need to be ground down to fit, the eagle kit you bought eliminates that issue since it's made with 350 mains. However with the added stroke your rotating assembly will contact the sides of the block and some grinding will need to be done.

gurkgurkgurk

information should come with the kit. if not call up eagle and ask. because i ordered a scat 383 stroker kit and it didnt require me to grind anything, even with the 6 inch rods. and i suspect that your kit is the same.

transplant

You will have to grind the block at the bottom of every cylinder to clear the rods. I used the Eagle kit. Here are some pics.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

You'll need to make sure your rods dont hit your cam too. No real way to fix that other than to get a small base circle cam.

l_dis_travlr

I put a 400 crank into a 4-bolt main 350 -- no bearing issues,
but a machine shop handled parts procurement & block work.
I only had a clearance issue in one place. Worst problem
is the externally balanced components. I think the aftermarket
units have overcome this.

Worst case -- hand tighten the crank in place, then CAREFULLY
turn it, and watch for interference. Repeat w/ 2 rods on each
crank throw. Very easy if the piston/rods haven't been combined yet.
If necessary, wrap a rag around the piston end to protect the cylinders.
If piston/rods have been assembled, leave off the rings.

Maybe a little unorthodox, but necessity can be the mother of invention.

Good luck