MetallicaWolfe

Okay my car has 191k miles on it, not sure if the 305 was ever rebuilt. Its been reliable for the past 2000 miles but you never know what may happen. Burns oil and has a really noticable difference in power in the morning and during the day, which of course hot weather yadda yadda ya.

I just want something fresh but a new car isn't an option since I'm in college haha.

So I'm looking at buying a crate 350, now I need to know what I can and what I should not take from my 305 and put plug it into the 350. Ive heard that I should get a new harmonic balancer, so I got down that much besides a new intake manifold. Also whats the difference in a 6'3/4 and 8'' balancer. Internal, external?

I'm no expert but I can learn.

Also the damn thing seems to barely get over 10mpg city, sometimes worse, best I ever got from it was like 18mpg mostly highway

88gta3508

congrats on you project !!!
your engine is internally balanced
the smaller balancer will allow the engine to rev quicker..
you will need to purchase the matching timing tag..
I would suggest you change your electronic distributer.. to centrifugal, vacuum advance
replace your carb with a non computer controlled
also a Qjet will give you better mileage there are mods you can do to Qjets
a performance intake would be a nice welcomed change

or maybe sell your setup... for EFI with much better mileage just a thought with gas prices...

MetallicaWolfe

I already changed my distributer and carb, edlebrock 600, eh the way I see it, this is the best option $ wise

Also timing tag, can anyone tell me what he meant, you mean timing tab?

88gta3508

yes TAB

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Use Good headers ( 1 3/4" ) and Y-pipe leading to a 3" cat back exhaust. Install a "high rise" intake ( RPM / Air Gap) and a 1" spacer on top; but only if you have the space ! You could also get a drop-base air cleaner to save some room. And be sure to use the correct flywheel ! ( 1 or 2 piece RMS block )

Be sure to upgrade the factory sway bars on your car too - It will be a very different ride with a 350ci in it !

MetallicaWolfe

Thanks for all the feedback, I'm looking into all this right now. Heres a few things;

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...67353/10002/-1
Yes, stock but daily driver and much much better than my stock 305

http://www.jegs.com/i/Weiand/925/8150P/10002/-1 which one is better and why? you told me highrise which I imagine keeps things cooler etc My first pick was the one below;
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2701/10002/-1
And yeah I dont have too much room to work with, enoguh but not sure for a 1'' adapter plate, well see.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66510/10002/-1 I assume this will work.

Not sure what flywheel to get, I assume a 1985 350 one will work, mine needs replaced anyway so yeah, starter misses from broken teeth haha

And all this is fairly new: My
starter
battery
alternator
fuel pump
edlebrock 1406
and not that its all that important but my tires dont even have 10k miles on them haha



http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30565...68#moreDetails <----Is there any reason that wouldn't fit? couldn't find much on what Ive been looking for, of course headers to match

camarodave988

I am currently doing the same swap but i have a 1985 camaro. I am slowly working on it when i get time because i have the car at my cousins house. I was curiouse if i could pull the motor out with the cherry picker with the stock headers still connected to it. I would greatly appreciate the help because they are rusted in good.
Dave

MetallicaWolfe

Thats cool, I honestly don't know, still getting parts ready etc I need mine completed within a weekend so haha, my daily driver, wish I had a second car, would make things so much easier

camaronewbie

1) It ain't gonna happen in a weekend - make arrangements for other transportation or don't do it. It NEVER happens in a weekend. You'll get the block swapped, but tuning it to run good enough to daily drive - better give yourself a safe alternative.

2) The Performer EPS is NOT the intake you want. Get the Edelbrock Performer RPM or the Edelbrock Performer Air Gap. Stay away from the Air Gap RPM (it's too tall).

3) A 1in spacer will not fit either (not on top of a good intake) - skip it - not needed.

MetallicaWolfe

Of course I'd make sure to have other options just in case, jst going off of estimates from someone whose has done it haha.

Good, just shopping around-

I plan on sticking it in the shop after swap for fine tuning, depends really.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

1-3/4" headers are too big for that engine. The RPM intake is more than needed (the EPS would be fine on that engine). Spacers are overrated, especially on a stock-type replacement engine like that.

Sorry to hear you downgraded the carb and distributor.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

OK -

If that's too much; stick with a stock 305 TPI manifolds / Y-pipe and cat back,..... ?



Any extra spacer/gasket under the carb is good to prevent heat soak, and while a 1" will do nothing for a 305, I nave never read "in print" where it it will not help a 350. If you have the space to install it, it should - IMO - be installed.


Get under the car and remove the 2 original studs/bolts that hold the Y-Pipe to each manifold. Expect them to break and need replacement,.....! A deep socket some extensions and a breaker bar will make short work of it. ( place a jack under the Y pipe so it doesn't fall on Ya' when the last stud is broken off. ) The Y-pipe will drop and the engine can be pulled with the manifolds in place.

They should work just fine on top of the new 350, regardless of the intake they are sitting on !! ( You don't want a CC LG4 set-up on there ! )

MetallicaWolfe

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...Q5fAccessories

What Im currently looking at over new crate, in yellow

Naldo

I am working a 350 from 305 swap also - i gave in to the "dont be foolish and rebuild that 305" crowd. i kinda knew i was going to. Got a good deal on a 350 motor from a guy on craigslist - it was in a nova he claims to have only run this past season on the 2010 cruise nights. Its clean enough, gaskets look pretty fresh. .30 over, Domed pistons, lunati 300 cam - a bit more cam than i was really aiming for but the price was right. Holley fuel pump, "heavy duty" oil pump - not sure what that means, what looks like an edelbrock intake, but i cant find any manufacturer name or logo's on it, with a holly 650dp. He threw in a set of shorty headers. all for about 2/3's of what i was looking to pay for a Top End Kit from Summit.

So now i have the motor and trans out - and what appears to be considerably more wires than i need. What is the standard practice for (burying?) the unused wiring? ill need the essentials and some sending unit info from the water, alt and oil pressure, etc. of course, but that leaves a whole lot of wiring with nothing to do.

oh yeah - rust inhibitors... are these more like snake oil or do they actually stop rust? my intention is to clean up the engine bay and paint it up, but if i had to sand to bare metal thats going to take some time.

Doom86

Why is that?

camaronewbie

Unless these headers are 3rd gen F-body specific, they will not fit in your 3rd gen car, so take them off and sell them.

Naldo

Well- they are not mounted, and i had planned on installing the motor and then putting them in. Aside from the fact that they wont match directly to the Y pipe, whats the hangup? or do the F body specific type match the stock y pipe?

camaronewbie

Headers are pretty much car specific. In the old days of huge engine bays many headers would fit many car applications, but that's no longer the case. There's generally a problem with the K member or A-arms or steering with trying to use the old shorty headers.

Hey - they were free, by all means give it a shot. I've not personally tried it myself, but I've read alot of posts here where nothing but 3rd gen specific headers would fit. But I'd definitely install the motor first (by placing motor on mounts but not putting the bolt through the mounts yet) then try and see if the headers will fit (not bolting up the mounts will allow you to lift motor slightly if needed). It'll cost you nothing but time to try, and maybe you will get lucky.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The stock factory CC E4ME computer q-jet and associated distributor would be perfect for that engine. You couldn't possible do better. Edelbrock should be shot for foisting their carbs on an unsuspecting public. Anyone suggesting removing a factory CC carb from a street/performance 305-383 should meet a similar fate.

Factory TPI exhaust manifolds and exhaust (except the '91-'92 single cat version) would be fine, or headers & cat-back for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application. Shoot for 1-5/8" primary tube headers (avoid Pace Setters or Flowtechs or any of their branded derivatives).

Naldo

i mentioned rust inhibitors - maybe i meant rust arrester? the stuff you can spray/paint onto rusted metal that supposedly stops it from continuing to rust? has anyone tried it and can say "yeah, it does what it says" or " tried it and the thing was bleeding rust in two weeks.."

just hate to waste time if i can pick brains on folks who've been there done that.

Also - is the Lunati cam i mentioned (300 duration 515 lift) Way more than should be driven more than a quarter mile at a time? what if i wanted to go like 25 miles - would i wish i didnt have such a large cam? The motors out of the car now - if i have to swap cams, now would be the time. I just have no idea what the difference is going to be from the stock cam it had to this new one and am wondering what to expect.

MetallicaWolfe

Just ordered the new crate 350 Woooo
Going to get a paint job soon aswell, I'll update as needed
Btw we are doing the swap at my sisters boyfriends grandpa's shop

So excited (^.^)b

MetallicaWolfe

Okay so still waiting on the engine, should be in tomorrow, anyway have a few questions;



If im not mistaken thats part of my cruise control correct?



What are these sensors for? I bought a new water neck and it doesn't have them. I'm guessing it has something to do with reading the fluid temperature?







Wouldn't be complete without a horrible shot of the horrible looking dismantled 305.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Cause' no one would want a 305ci CC carb, CC distributor, and ECM running a crate 350.



Yup, That's part of the cruise control.

One water neck sensor is coolant temp to ECM and the other is a vacuum switch for stock carb set-up.

Glad to see the project is progressing !

Doom86

Well I gathered that was your opinion the first time you said so but was wondering why.

To the OP the water neck pictured there has a Coolant temp sensor on the left and the solenoid on the right is for the evap canister.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You'd have to be ignorant or untrainable to think that.

MetallicaWolfe

Heres more pictures from Sunday! Getting so close! Working on it more tomorrow Wiring seems just fine, had to fix starter wire again but its a ok =] The starter housing was cracked big time hahaha..Wonder if my warranty covers? ;D

MetallicaWolfe

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Nice progress being made. You can lose ALOT of that wiring if your not sticking with a cc carb. Check out Pocket's wiring threads for some instruction. I believe its called: "Prepping a 3rd gen harness" or something along those lines.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Ignorance is Bliss !




Looking good,.......... Looks like your Well on your Way !! I havn't pulled an engine in 3-4 months and seeing these pics is giving me the 'itch' !

MetallicaWolfe

Yea I might look into it, depends how much we get done today etc
Might just leave it alone and cut things up later after I actually have a car that runs lol...

Haha only 3-4 months? ;D
Hopefully I'll have more to update today

MetallicaWolfe

Heres some updates from yesterday and today =D Got the intake manifold on yesterday, gaskets and that glue stuff then today paint and flexplate bolted on along with spark plugs. Spending so much money but getting sorta excited!!

Got my starter replaced on warraty, it was cracked, XD Ordered a new power steering pressure hose and whatever the other hose is called. New transmission seals and new engine thinga majigs, forget the name...Holds the engine down. Also got transmission piece...The water pump is new aswell, old one was nasty ^^

I'm forgetful of the names..
Anyway what would you guys reccomend oil wise? Full synthetic?

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Your Feelin' it alright !!!!



But a good oil filter and the cheapest oil you can buy...... get whatever viscosity/wieght was recomended for the motor. Run the block thru it's "break in" period and replace oil and filter with new stuff. This time buy premium oil for the correct viscosity/wieght.

( consider the first oill / filter as a "flush" for any crap that might have gotten inside buiring the build )

MetallicaWolfe

Ok I'll take that into consideration man =D

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I've also heard that diesel oil is a good break in oil to use.

MetallicaWolfe

Oh I wouldn't know haha
Probably going to have the transmission on by Monday
It runs strong so I'm not going to screw with it =D Ive changed the filter and o ring on it not long ago, like last year so yeah. Shifts normal, haven't been able to tell it apart from a newer cars transmission so thats a good sign.

Going to wait to cut wiring, dont really feel like getting too far in depth with it. Just need it running Updates soon

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Cheap oil probably isn't a good idea. You want the ZDDP for the cam break-in, which is still in the diesel oil spec'd for '06-earlier, CI-4++ and SL (for the gasoline engine side). You don't want CJ-4 diesel oil, as it has reduced ZDDP. Non-synthetic.

After the cam break-in, dump the oil, change the filter, and use the same diesel oil for the first 500 miles or so. Then you can go to whatever you want. I'm a firm believer in synthetics, AMSOIL in particular. Since you have flat tappet lifters, you'll want to keep using a CI-4++/SL rated oil. If it says SM, SN, GF-4, or GF-5, don't use it - those don't have sufficient ZDDP, and you'll risk wiping out the cam or lifters.

MetallicaWolfe

Thanks man, saving me alot of time in research. By the way, how long does it take to break the cam in?

Doom86

looks good man glad to see it's coming together.

The best place I found for break in oil is the machine shop. YMMV but my local shop was good. Don't use cheap oil when you could just spend $20-$30 on the proper oil. It would really burn your *** to wipe a lobe to save $5.

MetallicaWolfe

What would be a proper break-in and break in period? Im reading and nothing is the same xD I need my car for daily driving, in college

MetallicaWolfe

Not a whole bunch has been completed- getting back on it tomorrow-grr getting aggravating. This update includes the transmission rear and front seal replacement, the water necks are in and locked, the water pump is on and assembled and I made my own plug for the drivers side dipstick, wooo
New motor mounts in, well the part that goes down on the frame...lol

MetallicaWolfe

Well didn't get what I wanted done today...Heres an update to what I have done, slowly but surely it will get done...so ****ing close!

MetallicaWolfe

Thanks, technically it should, high heat engine paint

Doom86

Those manifolds are going to choke the crap out of this thing. Sorry man not trying to **** on your parade just being honest. It's going to feel like your are driving a work truck until you get those swapped out.

MetallicaWolfe

I know it =p

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

No offense taken. I'm old enough to have driven a new '67 Impala (okay, just around the farmyard), and it's not simply a matter of preference. A few minutes, or even hours "hassling" with wires and sensors is paid back with hours, days, months, and years of easy starts, good throttle response, good fuel economy, and as good or better power. I see no reason to go back to a harder, dirtier, more-maintenance-intensive time.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

High heat engine paint is no match for high heat exhaust manifolds.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

This used to be on GM's sites for their replacement engines:

1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 ACDelco oil filter (PN 251605610).
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.

At #10 & #12, you need to abandon the current rated oils and use the CI-4++/SL rated diesel/gasoline engine oil. If you want to use synthetic oil, do that at #12 (but still only use a CI-4++/SL rated diesel/gasoline engine oil).

MetallicaWolfe

Ok, I'll try to follow those steps haha...Also what about the engine knock sensors?
How important are those since Ive changed distributers etc?
Still use by ecm?

Tafsky86

that paint will not last. It will burn off in weeks. I did the same thing. I even used VHT paint. Your best bet is to invest in something, I recommend JET-HOT Coated headers... which you can get done in chrome or black... check them out. will cut your engine compartment temp in half...

Build looks good though!!!!! Keep up the good work...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you changed the distributor, the knock sensor can't talk to it.