Lvgta

Hey guys,

I'm new to the forum and searched here this weekend for the answer to my question, but didn't quite find it, even though it's been partially addressed on other threads. Here is my question: I have an 88 GTA that I've owned since 1996 that has the original L98 350. It won't pass smog and has been losing fluid/overheating on a regular basis here in Las Vegas for the last year. My buddy owns a shop and looked at it and said it definitely has a cracked head or needs a head gasket as there is antifreeze in the oil and that it's losing fluid internally. He's a personal friend and has recommended that we just swap out the L98 with this crate motor. I've read the good and bad about it on here. I just want it to turn my GTA into a practical daily driver with reliable performance. (My other car is an 11 370 Z, so I'm not worried about making it a ton of power.) What other parts do I need if I plan on keeping my original computer, TPI set-up, etc.? I read somewhere that the intake might need some work to make the bolts line up? Is there anything else? Has anyone else done this swap? I've already ordered the engine from the local Chevy shop. I just don't want to find out that I need a ton of other parts. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

May need a new flexplate as IIRC ,290Hp crate engine is old style 2 pce RMS block while yours is later 1 pcs RMS.
The two styles don't interchange.

Every thing will bolt up ; the 4 center bolt holes on intake will need elongating to accommodate different bolt angle used on early heads

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

Is this that pre-'86 crate engine with the 2-piece rear main? If you have an '88, you would have the one-piece rear main and the bolt holes for the intake are different than the pre-'86 or maybe the change happened in '87.

Lvgta

It is PN 12499529. It's the one listed in JEGS, Summit, GM Performance, etc. It is pre-86 and has a 2 piece rear main seal. It is what the Chevy dealership recommended as a stock replacement. Any idea how much it'll cost in parts to remedy the rear main seal problem? Are there any other issues with this swap? I really appreciate any help as the engine's being delivered tomorrow. Also, is the original block worth anything? Does having the original engine do anything to increase the value of these cars? Again thanks for any help or suggestions.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Is not a "problem"
Just that the bolt pattern on crank hub was changed and you need the flexplate to suit a early engine w/ 2pce RMS crank

Any 153 tooth flexplate for 2 pce RMS will work
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PIO-FRA112/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-FP301/

Lvgta

Thanks, Vetteoz. Sounds like I just need to pick up one part then. Hopefully, the swap will go smoothly and I'll have my baby back next week.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I wouldn't recommend that particular engine. It has poor heads (and a bolt pattern that doesn't match your TPI base), flat tappet lifters, and the old 2-piece, leak-prone rear main seal. Cancel your order now!

Two of my brothers got a rebuilt 350 from these guys:
http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...26111133660.98

Much better choice. To the price, add core and shipping charges (freight to return your core will eat up the core charge).

Guest

I wouldn't buy the Goodwrench 350 either. That's all the 290 HP is, but with a not-good cam. And a higher price.

Rich2279

iTrader: (7)

In addition to the different bolt pattern on the heads (for the intake) and the rear main, his '88 uses a roller cam with the "spyder" holding down the lifters.The earlier blocks don't have this.These are a few of the reasons I would stay away from that particular engine (PN 12499529).

Lvgta

I want to thank 57kid and vette for their help. Engine came in today and we're looking to bolt it in, but I have a question for anyone who has put this engine in a 3rd gen car. The new engine doesn't have a bolt hole on the passenger side valve cover to bolt up the accessory bracket. How can you remedy this? There are 4 places on the engine where it bolts up on the l98 but the new engine only has 3. Can those 3 take the stress? (two bolts on front of engine, one bolt to a bracket that connects to exhaust manifolds). Any help you guys can give is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to get it up and running before Labor Day weekend.

Lvgta

Anybody want to add their two cents?? I checked the search and 86racer did this swap, but he didn't say anything about the accessory brackets. I would really appreciate any help I can get as this has been my garage baby since 2000 while a 97 z28, an 05 mustang gt, and an11 370z have had to spend the days out in the 100+ Vegas weather so that my baby could stay in the garage.
Thanks for any help.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Damn....you were given good advice and you ignored it

Lvgta

Hey DD,
I truly appreciate any and all advice on this swap. A little background on the car: I bought it in 96' with 50,000 miles on it with the tip money I saved from my job as a barback. It was my DD until 2001 when I had the engine rebuilt at 121,000 miles at a terrible Corvette place here in Vegas called the Chevy Shop. It always ran hot and I had to take it back numerous times for overheating issues. I finally gave up on it as a DD in 2002 and bought a 97 Z28. It's only gone 3,000 miles since 2005. It's spent the rest of the time in my garage. This year, it wouldn't pass smog no matter what I tried. One of my best friends owns an auto shop and offered to swap the motor for only the cost of what he pays his guys. We looked around and called the local GM dealership and they said this engine was the easiest swap, that it would just bolt in and it was the recommended replacement engine as they have stopped making L98s. I'm not looking for my GTA to have a ton of power or to race it very often. (Although I did back in 02 against my Z28 at the strip and it ran 16.1 @88 mph. I still have the time slip somewhere in the car.) I'd just like to be able to drive it without worries and occassionaly drive it to work as I'm racking up a ton of miles on my 370 Z. (Got it new in January and have 17,000 miles on it already.) I'm just worried about that accessory bracket being held on by 3 bolts instead of 4. I know that there are people on here that have put this engine in their car and I've PM'd them, but gotten no response. I know many of you think this is a lame engine, I'd just like some advice on how to make it work. Thanks to any and all that have helped.

Lvgta

I guess this could go under the title, HELP FOUND. It's been over six months since my buddy swapped the GM 290 HP engine into my 88 GTA. After we got it in, we could not get it to run correctly. After messing with it for 4+ months, I went and picked it up and took it to Five Star Auto on Sahara Ave. here in Las Vegas. The owner Bobby, and his staff spent quite a bit of time over the last 3 weeks trying to sort out all of the issues(computer shorted out, sensors shorted out, wiring harness that was so old and cracked that it didn't make contact in places), but they finally got my baby up and running. I've had this car since 96 and it never ran this well. For those criticizing this block, it's true, it doesn't run or sound like the original L98. It does have a little more grunt to it than the original. I can say that I drove it over 150 miles around town this weekend, just enjoying my baby for the first time since 2001 without having to worry about it overheating or breaking down. Well done Bobby and 5 Star Auto! You did what countless other mechanics/shops in this town couldn't do. I can't thank you guys enough!
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