Cars'n'Guitars

What is the best way to remove the motor mounts on a v8 car? Also what is the exact size socket needed to remove the bolts?

chevyv8guy

easiest way...grinder and a centre punch no fussing around with extensions and universal sockets coming up through the frame thats how i did it..bolts are cheap better to replace then reuse just my 2 cents

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

15mm

Cars'n'Guitars

Any tips or tricks to get the bolts out besides cutting them out?

chevyv8guy

extension with a universal swivel socket on it through the cross member for the bottom bolt and socket on the top ,loosen then remove bolt

Cars'n'Guitars

Okay that's what I was thinking but I wasn't to sure if I'd have enough clearance for the socket on top.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

take the front suspension out, once the a-arms are out it's easy

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

True, but putting the A-arms back in is more hassle than doing the nuts with the A-arms in there.

Cars'n'Guitars

Okay I haven't really been working on pulling the motor yet but now that I have another motor to be put back in its crunch time. I was looking around on it today, I was looking at the topside with the bolt heads. There is a nut on the backside of these bolts correct? And if so would be easier to raise the front end to access them?

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

yes there is a nut on the backside

Cars'n'Guitars

Okay thanks, I figured so that just made this 100 times harder.

chevyv8guy

why is it your removing the mounts? are you upgrading or is one cracked? no one has asked this yet and just seeing that your doing it to remove the motor you only have to remove one bolt from each side

Cars'n'Guitars

It is being done to remove the motor, as far as I can see there is nowhere on the mounts to remove the motor with one bolt. Can you show me some pictures of what I'm missing?

chevyv8guy

here is a picture... that big gold bolt will be the one your removing not the 3 on the k member...the is a nut on the back of it the sizes you will need are a 5/8 and a 13/16 if i remember correctly

Cars'n'Guitars

Okay I was thinking that but the bolt on mine is out already so I thought they were different than other motor mounts I have seen. Okay thanks for the picture.

chevyv8guy

the bolt is out on both sides? if so pull the motor lol

Cars'n'Guitars

Yeah I believe so, I was anticipating more work, not sure if the torque converter bolts are out though. But other than that I believe its ready then.

chevyv8guy

are you pulling the tranny all out at once? might be easier unbolt the trans mount and the torque arm as well as the trans lines slowly pull it out and dont let the drive shaft drop

Cars'n'Guitars

No tranny is staying in the car.

chevyv8guy

ok so all you have left to unbolt is the tranny,TQ converter bolts,fuel lines,power steering pump,manifold bolts,and remove the distributer cap so it doesnt get damaged and you have a little more clearance..i think thats all i might be forgetting something but im sure youll figure it out if you havent pulled it already!

Cars'n'Guitars

All of that has been done already, was wondering about mounts because I overlooked it like an idiot. I have been waiting to pull the motor because the weather has been pretty crappy this last week.

Blue1990camaro

iTrader: (1)

im in the sabe boat here, at the same point in my project as you are, wheather is killing me

Cars'n'Guitars

Haha yeah I hate because it just sits there and I know I have everything to do it but can't. Also while im on here is it easier to put headers on before or after the swap?

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Just don't panic when the motor doesn't come off the mounts right away. The first time I ever jacked a motor up, I was because the motor wouldn't raise up off the mounts. Turns out it was still sitting on the suspension. Oops. I actually made a post on here thinking my motor mounts were rust-welded to the motor lol.

If you do happen to replace the motor mounts for poly or new rubber oem, be ready for a chore. GM idiots didn't weld the nuts to the inside of the K-member like they should have, so that instead of just removing the bolts, you have to hold both. The nuts also have washers on the inside of the K-member. Easiest way to put these back on is by using RTV or similar gasket maker, and making it stick to the nut being held by the socket. Be ready to utilize an extension, a universal, a 15mm socket, and a long long list of curse words. Feel free to make up your own curse words too. That's what I did when I switched my mounts out for poly

Not exactly a walk in the park.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Depends on the headers. I don't think any will go in with the motor at the same time. Some just slip in from above or underneath. Others you need to jack the motor up a bit.

Cars'n'Guitars

Not at this moment but whenever the 355 goes back in it will, as for the nut depending on how I see it I will probably just weld it back on to the cross member. And thanks for the header tip.