Exhaust shooting flames !!!!
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Exhaust shooting flames !!!!
I'm sure you guys have seen the movie Grease with John Travolta and Olivia newton john. In the movie the scorpions car (black one with flames) shoots flames out the exhaust pipes. I'm just curious on how to do this for a future show project. Thanks in advance for you knowledge and help.
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
#2
Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Baker,Louisiana
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
umm ok.......i think i remeber how to do this.....tap out threads in the exhaust pipe before the tip......screw in the strongest spark plug you can......run a wire from the plug to your distributor.....so when the rotor hits the contact or where ever you have it connected.....itll pass the spark to the plug and blam.......run the car rich too so it will make a bigger flame.......this by the way is illegal......i guess show is ok....but.......have fun....and remember.....dont cross the streams
#4
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Homestead, Fla
Posts: 2,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you don't run it to your distributer. you need a 2nd ignition coil for the plugs in the tail pipe, wired up to a switch. Thats pretty much the only way, unless you can think of a better way to ignite it. You might also ned some sort of inlet to bring fresh air into the pipes before the plug, so it has O2 to burn.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, where to i attach the 2nd coil and could i use a MSD 6A ignition or similar ignition box instead of a coil ???
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
#7
Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Youngstown, Ohio, USA
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe one way to do it was to tap the exhaust, run a spark plug and exchange a plug wire for this wire. That way you'd basically have a miss/non fire which would supply your air/fuel mixture for the spark at the end and kablam....
------------------
1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
------------------
1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct me if i'm wrong.
I put a spark plug in the exhaust pipe, and run a wire from the spark plug to a switch. (i want a push button, momentary contact) Then run the switch to the + terminal on the battery. And just run the car a little on the rich side. Then as long as i hold down this switch FIRE !!!, right. Is their a way i can keep the flame under 1 foot, anything more that that is rediculous ?
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
I put a spark plug in the exhaust pipe, and run a wire from the spark plug to a switch. (i want a push button, momentary contact) Then run the switch to the + terminal on the battery. And just run the car a little on the rich side. Then as long as i hold down this switch FIRE !!!, right. Is their a way i can keep the flame under 1 foot, anything more that that is rediculous ?
[This message has been edited by 85IROCTPI (edited October 22, 2000).]
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Crystal Lake Il
Posts: 840
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '98 Z
Engine: LS1/6
Transmission: 4l60E
just give the accelerator pump a heavy squirt and run mechanical secondarys. Stomp it to the floor and let up quick......tap the switch and watch it burn
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Lockport, Il
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This was from on ls1.com by some guy na,e Snakeeater
Well, in the old days, all you needed were two spark plugs near the exhaust tips, an independant ignition system and a manual choke on the carburetor
I rigged up a simple ignition system in my 70 T/A consisting of about $30 worth of spare parts in my shop
Here's what you'll need:
3) Accessory Relays (Standard Five Prong type)
2) Ignition coils
1) 2.2 Ohm Balast Resistor (Standard MSD or Mallory type)
2) Small Capacitors (Old Points Condensors will do fine)
1) Toggle Switch
2) Spark Plugs
2) Spark Plug Wires
1) 10 Amp Fuse
The basic principle is to get two of the relays to pulsate on/off quickly, causing a triggering effect to the input of the ignition coils . When wired a certain way, they will do just that
Once the plugs are firing, all you need to do is add a little fuel .
With my old 70 T/A, I just yanked on the manual choke and this was the result
Of course, with our newer cars, we don't have a choke , so I've come up with a much better idea for adding fuel .
While pulling a choke in the older cars produced enough of a "rich" mixture to set off two foot flames , it really robbed the engine of power
But with fuel injected cars such as ours , we can inject the fuel directly into the exhaust via fuel solenoids .
All you need is a Fuel Solenoid from a "Wet" Nitrous kit, tapped to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail . Once tapped, you just need to run a line to two fuel fittings mounted near the rear of the exhaust .
With this separate fuel system being independantly controlled, there's no effect on engine performance .
My only real concern was having enough exhaust pressure to spit the flames out far enough so that I wouldn't roast my rear bumper cover .
My old 70 has a built 455 (400-.030 over stroker) with 13.5:1 compression , so it had no problem belching out big flames at idle
But with our much lower compression LS1's , we'll need to make sure the engine is revving at a high rate of speed to build up enough exhaust pressure .....
That's where a "WOT" switch comes in . Once wired correctly , it will only allow the fuel solenoid to activate at Wide Open Throttle, ensuring a bumper melting free Flamethrower system
As some already know , I was in the middle of this project on the Snake Eater when it got seized by the NYPD .
If I ever get it back , I'll be sure to finish the system and post the results
Hope this helps
Well, in the old days, all you needed were two spark plugs near the exhaust tips, an independant ignition system and a manual choke on the carburetor
I rigged up a simple ignition system in my 70 T/A consisting of about $30 worth of spare parts in my shop
Here's what you'll need:
3) Accessory Relays (Standard Five Prong type)
2) Ignition coils
1) 2.2 Ohm Balast Resistor (Standard MSD or Mallory type)
2) Small Capacitors (Old Points Condensors will do fine)
1) Toggle Switch
2) Spark Plugs
2) Spark Plug Wires
1) 10 Amp Fuse
The basic principle is to get two of the relays to pulsate on/off quickly, causing a triggering effect to the input of the ignition coils . When wired a certain way, they will do just that
Once the plugs are firing, all you need to do is add a little fuel .
With my old 70 T/A, I just yanked on the manual choke and this was the result
Of course, with our newer cars, we don't have a choke , so I've come up with a much better idea for adding fuel .
While pulling a choke in the older cars produced enough of a "rich" mixture to set off two foot flames , it really robbed the engine of power
But with fuel injected cars such as ours , we can inject the fuel directly into the exhaust via fuel solenoids .
All you need is a Fuel Solenoid from a "Wet" Nitrous kit, tapped to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail . Once tapped, you just need to run a line to two fuel fittings mounted near the rear of the exhaust .
With this separate fuel system being independantly controlled, there's no effect on engine performance .
My only real concern was having enough exhaust pressure to spit the flames out far enough so that I wouldn't roast my rear bumper cover .
My old 70 has a built 455 (400-.030 over stroker) with 13.5:1 compression , so it had no problem belching out big flames at idle
But with our much lower compression LS1's , we'll need to make sure the engine is revving at a high rate of speed to build up enough exhaust pressure .....
That's where a "WOT" switch comes in . Once wired correctly , it will only allow the fuel solenoid to activate at Wide Open Throttle, ensuring a bumper melting free Flamethrower system
As some already know , I was in the middle of this project on the Snake Eater when it got seized by the NYPD .
If I ever get it back , I'll be sure to finish the system and post the results
Hope this helps
#12
All of the above advice is good, but don't forget to REMOVE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER! A properly working cat will remove all of the gasses that make it possible to have flames come out the back! A properly working cat will only produce CO2, water vapor, and traces of other gasses--none of which will help your cause. If your A.I.R pump is in good order, use it to pump fresh air into the exhaust. That will make a rich exhaust REALLY blow flames!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sreZ28
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
5
10-22-2015 08:21 AM