I'm shopping around for a new header and y-pipe combo to replace my rusty 9 year old Edelbrock headers. I've learned my lesson and this time whatever I end up getting will be coated. I need something that will support 350 - 400 hp. I've been searching and reading all weekend. I like the Hooker 2055's, but I can't get myself around that collector issue. I haven't seen anyone else concerned about it in any of the posts I've read... why not? It looks like a great header restricted by what can be made to be, at best, a 2.25" collector. There are even some good pics in the Jan 07 issue of High Performance Pontiac, and I've been staring at them, and it seems like a big drawback. If not for that, they'd be great, but am I missing something? I'm thinking if it is going to be bolted up to a 2.5" pipe, then it has to have a 2.5" collector. No one else seems to think its a problem. Then I read about the 2460, which doesn't have the small collector problem that the 2055 does. You just have to be creative with the y-pipe, which means either I make my own, or I buy the one from Summit, cut off the 2.5" outlet and replace it with a 3" piece. I have a chop saw and a welder, so for me, it's not a big deal. Then I found the Mac headers, which have 2.5" collectors, a great looking y-pipe that I don't think I'd have to modify at all, and an AIR tube setup that makes way more sense. But I haven't been able to find many people on here using them. So I guess what I'm asking is... can any one comment on the Mac headers? They seem like the best option, assuming they are well made.... And how badly will those 2.25" collecters on the 2055's restrict power? Would I be better off buying the 2460's and modifying the y-pipe instead?

Hey I just read your posting, and first off...I NEVER knew that Mac made a set of headers for a 3rd gen. Thats news to me.....(scratching my head...) I'm running a set of Hedman shorty headers.. 1 5/8 primary tubes, and 3'' collectors...sent them to Jet-Hot coatings and have been on for 6 years now..they still look great.

Mac headers
http://www.macperformance.com/store/...ategory_ID=566

Where are you getting this "2.25 inch collector" stuff? http://www.holley.com/2055-1HKR.asp

2.5" pipe is O.D. The I.D. is closer to 2.25". The opening of the ball flange is less than that, so open it up to match the downpipe I.D. Doing this after fitting them up on the car is what I would recommend (and what I did).

Supporting around 360 GFWHP with the 2055's.

WOW...I guess the sayin' is true that you learn something new everyday. The MAC header and y-pipe combo looks really nice. Although I'm not really liking the right side just dumping into the pipe the way it does. My y-pipe has a seperate pipe from each collector then coming to a common junction at a "y" connection. The collectors are set up very much like the Edelbrock TES, a design that I just don't like. If I did it over I'd stay with my Hedmans, and second choice would be the Hookers.

I think I got that 2.25" stuff from being tired. I wish that HPP article was online, but if it is I can't find it. It says that in untouched form, the collector openings on their 2055's measured 1 and 15/16 inches. Using marking paint and a die grinder, they were able to increase the collector openings to 2.125 inches. I read that and I couldn't help but think... "that's it?"

I understand that the I.D. of 2.5" pipe will be smaller, but it isn't going to be reduced to 2.125". I'm not seeing how they can be opened to match the I.D. of the downpipe, unless they can be opened more than what HPP did.

Five7, did you ever measure your collectors after you opened them up? I'm wondering if they can be opened up more without causing them to leak. I'm not trying to be a pain, I'm just trying to find the most efficient/least restrictive set of shorty headers available for my car. Thanks for the info.

Jed

Does anyone have any experience with the Mac headers?

i have mac headers on my 305 and i there pretty nice only problem is they come with i high temp silicone coathing which scratchs pretty easy after a bout a year the started to rust where i scratched them, my car runs pretty good with them i ran a 13.8 at 99 with the headers and a few other bolt ons, and everything went together real easy everything lined up like it should

Jed, tf8692 are ceramic coated and fit perfectly on my lo3, I installed them yesterday. I cant say about longevity and 350-400hp though.
If you want I can send you some pics of them uninstalled an installed.

Thanks for the Mac feedback, guys. Thomas, I'd definitely be interested in seeing those pictures - thank you! Oh, and where did you two order them from? Directly from Mac?

Sorry, didn't see this until now.

Yes. Even posted pics on here showing it. If you search this forum for threads started by me over 1 yr ago, with "2055" in the subject line, about 5 threads should come up. The latest one has the details. Came out to right at 2.2". Started out at 1.9".

I emailed Hooker about that small opening when I got them in 2001. They replied that they keep it that small to prevent leaks, and it isn't a problem because the exhaust gases have slowed down significantly by the time they reach the collector. I said (when I read it, not to them), and did the match & open thing.

No leaks.

Oh, I also asked them about the supplied flange gaskets that were smaller than the exhaust ports in the head - again they said no problem, the gasket material that sticks into the exhaust flow will burn off after a little while. I raised the flag again, and got some Fel Pro's that didn't occlude the port.

I've never said 2055's are "perfect". I do maintain that they're the best shorty/y-pipe for our cars out there, and can be improved immensely with a little bit of work.

Yes ordered directly from Mac and and used fel-pro1444 header gaskets.
PM me your e-mail adress for the pics.

i bought mine about two years ago from my local speed shop they couldnt get them from mac because of a backorder or something but he found a set in california for me, i only paid 389$ which i think was a lot cheaper then buying them direct

Jed, pics e-mail'd.

what you doin with your old headers?
whats the #'s on them?

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...861_8_full.jpg

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...861_9_full.jpg

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...61_10_full.jpg

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...61_11_full.jpg

thomas, thanks for the pics. Sorry I couldn't respond sooner, I've been working way too much. I like the flanges and the collectors on those. I love that the AIR tubes aren't in the way! How was the installation? Did you have to raise the engine to get them in? Or was it nice and easy?

Hey Jed, the air tubes and installfriendlyness are the + of tese headers, for the rest I think they go in the upper category with SLP and Hooker.
Im going to write wat I remember in the way to also give some good tips for someone that never did it.

I used fel-pro 1444 header gaskets because the included copper ones did not convice me, but I have no experience with eighter.

The longest part was taking the old ones off because of the heat shields everywere.

I put them from the top, dont think you can get them up from below. I once read the edelbrock-TES installation instruction that sayd raise the engine, but I have a pair of TES and they are tiny compared to the MAC.

Drivers side:
--unplug oil pressure wire,
--unbolt and move valve cover aside towards the engine to get the header to pass down
(you need to unplug the battery and remove the alternator wire before),
--take the oxygen sensor wire out of the protection tube approx 3" before the original place because it takes a little more wire to get to the sensor,
--to reinstall the alternator bracket you can reuse the original bolt, its the perfect size (fixed between 2 bolts).

Passenger side:
--unbolt air pump (2 bolts) and lay on top of the engine,
--disconnect fan switch (be carefull, the socket is oval, to remove it you need to press the larger part toghetter to get a O shape. I replaced mine because it broke),
--take oil dip stick and socket out (I hat to sligtly bend it and twist it around for 5min to get it out and 15min back in. Nightmair),
--take the starter off (by reinstalling you will notice that some wires are wery close to the headers, they are held in that position by a little lip that you can snapp off, tighten the wire bolts holding the wire in the best position between engine and headers),
--unbolt valve cover and push it aside towards the engine wenn wen lowering the header in place (a 3rd hand can be handy).
--to reinstall the air condition compressor bracket you need to chamfer it sligtly on the back because it tuches the headers. The luxury would be to have a second bolt like the one that holds the alternator bracket and if not reuse an old one with the appropriet amount of spacers to not damage the cilinder head.

To tighten the rear L & R bolt of the headers I had to break a key in half, it was too long and kept it to check the the bolts every mont even tought they are never loose.

No wires should ever thuch the headers, you can fixe them to the brackets or werever it holds them in a safe distance. Stock, I had 2 long&large straight and 2 small 90° spark plug sockets on each side, the straight sockets thuch the headers a little bit and will smoke for 2min when you start up, but it is only the socket because they are large.

Since the installation I made approx 3000 miles an everithing is still fine.

Hope this can help. Have fun!

i'm about to install some new TES header on my TA... I've read some negative comments about the Edelbrock product and some good things too... any comments?
I'm also installing a new cat, nothing special, 3" and a 3" Edelbrock cat back...

I did the exact same thing 7fivekid suggested with the 2055's, I used an angle grinder and opened the collector up to 2.20 and have no leak issues.