Long Tube Headers with a T5 manual Transmission.
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Ohio
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Long Tube Headers with a T5 manual Transmission.
If I have missed a thread, please let me know, But I am trying to get more information on installing Long Tube Headers on my third-gen Firebird with a T5 Transmission. I am surprised there is not more information on this subject, or I just haven't found it yet. Installing long tubes on an automatic is super easy. They made so many of these cars with a 5-speed I can't be the only one installing long tubes on my car and doing it right.
The automatics are easy, but T5 Manuals are a different conversation with the limited space on the driver's size due to the location of the slave cylinder. I have found plenty of stuff for the newer 4th gens and newer with a T56.
So far, the only information I have found on installing long tubes with a T5 is a video where some young kids absolutely had to smash the crap out of the driver's side header. They crushed it to clearance around the lower control arm mount and the Salve Cylinder. (I know this doesn't affect their performance much, but this was excessive!) There has to be a better way! As old as these cars are, I know someone has installed them and did a little more professional job installing them. I am striking out on finding more info or for a parts list.
I don't like the idea of having the header that close to the slave cylinder. With the limited space in this area, I have a pretty good feeling that it will end up melting at minimum, shortening its life dramatically.
I am ok with running a hydraulic slave/throw-out bearing, but I can not find any info on which one will work or if I will need to change out my clutch master cylinder. Or if I can adapt my factory master cylinder line to work with the internal slave/ throwout bearing.
Does anyone have any information on this, or can you point me in the right direction where I can find the information?
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
The automatics are easy, but T5 Manuals are a different conversation with the limited space on the driver's size due to the location of the slave cylinder. I have found plenty of stuff for the newer 4th gens and newer with a T56.
So far, the only information I have found on installing long tubes with a T5 is a video where some young kids absolutely had to smash the crap out of the driver's side header. They crushed it to clearance around the lower control arm mount and the Salve Cylinder. (I know this doesn't affect their performance much, but this was excessive!) There has to be a better way! As old as these cars are, I know someone has installed them and did a little more professional job installing them. I am striking out on finding more info or for a parts list.
I don't like the idea of having the header that close to the slave cylinder. With the limited space in this area, I have a pretty good feeling that it will end up melting at minimum, shortening its life dramatically.
I am ok with running a hydraulic slave/throw-out bearing, but I can not find any info on which one will work or if I will need to change out my clutch master cylinder. Or if I can adapt my factory master cylinder line to work with the internal slave/ throwout bearing.
Does anyone have any information on this, or can you point me in the right direction where I can find the information?
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
#2
Supreme Member
iTrader: (14)
Re: Long Tube Headers with a T5 manual Transmission.
It is not required A fork style external slave can still operate the clutch, but you run into exhaust clearance issues with LSOEM SBC ran the exhaust under the oil pan towards the PS sideLS, the oil pan takes that space so you have to go rearwards past the trans. Thats where the slave cyl is mounted Use a 4th gen T5 bearing retainer to get the internal HTOB mount on a budget
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...t5-behind.html
#3
Member
Re: Long Tube Headers with a T5 manual Transmission.
Hawks and American powertrain (and others) make an input shaft mounted slave that will actuate the clutch. Then you can remove all the fork and external slave components. You and also cut off the slave mount off the stock bell housing. This will give you a bunch of room.
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