Does anyone know of a company or individual who makes sbc intake flanges to make your own intake manifold??..... preferaby with center section for the dizzy to sit in.... thanks!!

I don't know offhand, but IIRC, there are companies which make two-piece intake manifolds. You could use one of their lower sections and fabricate an upper for it.

Why not get some intake gaskets to use as a template?

I guess I'm too cautious of getting the dizzy deck height and flange angle correct. thanks all!!!

any other ideas post em up!

This is something I'd really like to know, as I had a custom manifold all planed out, but making the base is what put me off going through with the build. I almost bought an old cracked edelbrock tunnel ram that I could cut the runners off, but someone beat me to it.

Would this help any?

http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=23191

jms

oh yeah now we are on the right track, good find.....

Here's another thought. Find a factory cast iron manifold. Build a frame work around the head & block sides to hold your aluminum plates. If built right (rigid) when the aluminum is welded it won't require machine work to seal. For the thermostat housing, find a junk aluminum manifold and carefully cut it off and weld it to your new manifold base. The dist mount can be made from round stock turned to size and weld into position, same for the dist holdown mount. The more you can do yourself, welding especially, the cheaper this can be done.

If you are worried about getting the head flanges and distributor boss done correctly, this project is WAY over your head. I just finished building an intake myself and the head flanges and base were the easiest parts of the project. Building a manifold is SO much more work than you think

It is also more expensive than you think. I have about $400 in sheetmetal and argon.

I'm not worried about the project complexity. I fabricate turbo headers/intakes, turbo kits for a living... I just wanted something to save some time.... check my sig for my work

Looks like it will not be over your head after all. Most of the people who ask questions like yours and use the term "dizzy" don't know what they are talking about, so I assumed you didn't either, sorry about that.

I made my flanges on a mill. It was fairly easy to cut the ports and drill the bolt holes on it. I matched up the runners on it, and made the valley plate on it. I would consider access to a mill as absolutely necessary.

The distributor boss takes some work and measuring, but it is not that hard. It helps to use a production intake to locate the hole and the height. The boss is angled towards the center of the motor 5*

Post up some pics if you decide to do it. I am going to take pics on mine and post them up in another thread.

hey s10 man. i know this is old (i used search bar), but im on the same track right now. i have a question: do u torque the flanges with a dasket and then weld the flanges to the base plate or do u set the flanges at 135 degree (or 55 from the outside) and weld them without using the engine heads as a guide? im just worried about leaks. i thought by torquing the flangues on the heads (with gaskets already), place the botton place and weld them on top of the engine, i would have less chances of leaks. im using rear cooling on my intake (like we do on the LT1 intake converstion). this intake will be used on a 305 tpi. any input will be welcome

I'd bolt it down with gaskets but watch out for the heat cooking them. Avoiding warpage is the biggest problem. I like to have a bottle of water and spray down the welds right afterwards to help with the warping. I've used this method on headers and intakes and it works pretty well. You still have to surface the flanges when you're done though. On second thought, don't use the gaskets, just bolt the flange right to the head. This will make sure you have good alignment after you remove material during the surfacing.

I'm no expert but I've done this a couple times. Seek out as many opinions as you can.

thanks for the idea. isnt it easier to surface before welding? i saw on the side: LS1 with L98 heads? is that an L98 with a custon manifold? i think someone is ahead of me

The welding warps the flanges so you surface afterwards.

My 6 liter has l9 2 heads, not l98. They are the same casting as the LS3 heads.

i read as "L98". thanks for the fast info i will post pictures of the production in this section or the aftermarket intakes.

holy crap! i just jizzed my pants looking at those welds. im no where near as great as u are with a tig.... i wish i could make some sexiness like u!

im plannin on building some custom headers too... prob turbo headers, any pointers? besides stainless lol. im thinking twin t3/t4 hybrids and i hate log style headers... gona go nicer looking collector front mount turbo headers.

edit: u could try calling hogans and other custom intake manufacturing compaines to see if they would sell u the bases
http://www.hogansracingmanifolds.com/