Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Just align the wheels with the bottom of the ramps, but extend them past the end. That way, when they lay down, they aren't on the wheels. When they are titled up to move, they are on the wheels.

I made a quick jpeg to show what I mean. Could be useful on those full car length ramps.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I was originally thinking. I only see one main problem with that. You'd have to lift the other end of the ramps up pretty high. And thats still a lot of weight to control and push/pull around. Im going to play around with some ideas using solidworks or something so I can see how it all works when lifted up and how high you'd have to lift it etc etc. We'll see what happens.

Justin

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

If you cut that bottom corner of the ramp off at a 45 degree angle, it would reduce the height need to lift the ramp to move.

The other alternative would be the step-locks of the rolling stairs in warehouses. But that would take some engineering to pull off...springs, levers, locks, weight calculation for the springs, etc. Not exactly "back yard" stuff.

CrazyHawaiian

I don't want to knock anyones ideas but it seems like more work than its worth to get a lowered car in the air. I don't think its ever impossible to get a jack under the car, but I guess it depends on what you use for a jacking point. It is true that most common jacking points won't clear when lowered 2 inches or more. But there are jacking points that don't depend on ride height, my jacking point of choice is the front control arm (a-arm). The only thing affecting the jack clearance there is the tire height. As long as you're not running some crazy short tire height then you'll be fine with most jacks. Just turn the wheels full lock one way or the other and place the jack under the a-arm (whichever way you turned). At full lock you'll have the proper angle to place the jack and not get caught up in GFX. But I do see merrit in this project for some situations when you want the suspension loaded to perform work, like welding in some SFC's or something. Well anyway, good luck guys!!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I actually bought a low profile jack, and I still have trouble getting it jacked up. The main reason I dont like using a jack to lift the front, is that you need to do one side at a time. Go up alittle, put a jack stand in. Go to the other side, put a jack stand. Then go back and forth til its up. Im not a huge fan of the idea of jacking one corner of my car up high while the other is on the ground. Even with SFCs. Its just easier to line the ramps up, drive on up, and if you still need it higher, than you can use a jack.

On the rear, thats easy. But even with the rear jacked up as far as it will go, to the point where the nose is touching the ground, I still cant wiggle under enough to even get to the front of the torque arm.

These are just my reasons for doing it. Amongst many other reasons. But Im sure there are better solutions and different ways.

Good input tho guys! hopefully one day Ill own a lift and I can ditch the ramp idea for good! haha.

J.

LIL BASTARD

iTrader: (3)

Love the wood idea. It looks way more stable, and for those projects that require more than 1 day of work, no worries about leaving the car in the air. Good idea. I would never have thought about doing it that way. Something so simple

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

At my old house, I got them lined up, my car on mine to ensure they were good, then I took some black spray paint, and squirted the floor around the 4 corners of each one. That way, I had marks on the floor, to line them up next time.

Worked perfect. Just had to align the ramps with the marks! Problem solved.

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Kool Ramps GhettoC!

Mythos

The Ramps look solid i'll probably be building a set of my own for my bird

jaredi

For the wheels, head over to a lawn mower shop and get a set of push mower wheels. They'd work good. Mount a metal bracket on either side with some metal dowel rod to slide the wheel on...

Tobashadow

Nice idea i really dont trust a car in the air even on jack stands.

As far as a jack goes, the best one ive got for working on the iroc is actually a suv floor jack. It's the same height as a standard floor jack but about 2 to 3 time's longer in length which allows me to get all the way back to the crossmember and take it really high.

Eighty9RS

I have to agree with ghettocruiser. Hauling these bad-boys around gets old, but it's definitely easier than jacking up one side at a time. And I do feel much safer with these than with jackstands.

I pretty much have the same thing he has except shorter (8'); I only used 5 2x10x10's instead of 7. And not nearly as many screws!.. Although I did use liquid nails.

I also like the idea of adding wheels. I'll probably end up doing just that - but because mine are used on gravel, they'll have to be 8 inchers.

Red Devil

I swear they recirculate those articles from amg to mag. I liked the idea when I first saw it... sometime in the 70's. They are far easier to get a lowered car on that using a jack.

89RS_82Z

iTrader: (2)

yea thats a great idea, us RVers have been using wooden boards for years to drive big motorhomes up on to level them at camp, now we got on board hyd leveling jacks but always carry drive ups just incase, me nor my father have had a set fail, just use good wood (we used 2x6s pressure treated and then thompson water seal and stacked the kinda like shown) a good tip put handles on the sides or front to make it easy to move them around, also if u need more traction take and put clear varnish/thompsons on them and when it is wet sprinkle fine grade sand on it, follow up with one more coat to protect the sand, hope this helps the guys that make a set