91zconvt

So, I've been out of a Thirdgen for quite a while now. Had a few during high school and for a few years after that, but life happens and had to give it up for a while. So anyway, I recently bought an '87 IROC that is in pretty good condition but still needs a bit of work.

I guess I'll post a pic of the body just to get started. Seller is bringing me a nose off a '91 RS, as the one on it is clearly not correct.



Ok, So that was more than one...oh well.

Back on track; I really should of taken a picture of the interior before hand, but I didn't. Basically, gray seats out of a base firebird, or maybe a grand am. Either way, fronts and rear all torn up. Carpet disgusting. All the plastic is there, however. I will be converting everything to black. Plastics will be sanded and painted, carpet will be replaced.

So, I completely gutted the interior. Took everything out and threw it in one big pile. I was impressed to see no real rust, just a bit of surface rust here and there, nothing bad at all. I grinded most of the rust down and POR15 (3M equivalent) the whole floor/trunk area. Just have to find some black carpet and seats now, and I'll start putting things back together.

Here's the pictures; sorry about the quality, they are from my cell phone. Obviously, the color has been changed.








Continued...

91zconvt

Sorry about the last pictures, it started getting dark in the garage and there's no flash on my phone to compensate.

I will be updating as I progress. One of my biggest regrets about my past thirdgens in the lack of pictures I took.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Fun stuff. I'm in the process of doing this to two cars. 1987 and 1985 Trans Ams. The 1985 is going to be a parts car because the floors are ****ed. Basically it needs new floor pans, a new trunk pan and new sub-frames. Oh yeah and the frame horn on the passenger's side is bent. The 1987 car has some rust, but fortunately it isn't that bad and almost all the rust is in different locations than that of the other car. So the 85 is being stripped just for parts. I'll be doing basically a from the "uni-body" up restoration on the thing. Basically most of the car, save for some of the interior and the body / glass will be replaced with all new hardware. Suspension, engine, transmission, drive shaft, rear end, brakes, etc.

Are you planning on ripping those hideous chrome fender flares off the car?

91zconvt

Good luck with your restore.

As for the chrome, One thing at a time man. I'll get to that eventually....Just hope they don't grow on me too much by the time I get to the exterior
I hated them when I saw the pics of the car before I bought them...But they really don't look all that bad in person. Like I said, I'll get there when I get there.

joee5

iTrader: (4)

im currently in tear down and eventual build up myself. i have her up for sale but find that i cannot just sit and let her be the way she is. eventually one of two things will occur. i sell her or i finish enough of her to keep. keep posting the pics, i may need for reference.

91zconvt

I'll be posting lots of pictures as I go. Probably tackle the headliner today...or maybe some plastic panel painting; dunno yet.

By the way; if anyone has black carpet or seats they'd like to get rid of, let me know

91zconvt

got a little side tracked trying to figure out why my interior lights don't go on when the door is opened. Took the trim off the A pillar. There are four wires; orange and white which are connected to the overhead console and red and green which are cut halway up the pillar. I can't seem to figure out where these would have gone to, but I assme it is my problem. Any ideas? Can get a pic if needed, but figured anyone who knows, will know by the description.

91zconvt

So progress has been a little slower than I hoped for, with work and all....

Got my Fat Mat in yesterday, and started on it. So far I have one door done...



A few notes:

I really like this stuff. Even without the door panel or anything, closing of the door is noticabley quieter. It makes a solid thud.

It is very sticky, put must be rolled firmly on. There can't be any bubbles between it in the panel, or it will not stick good. With that said, I don't see this stuff ever coming off unless its intentional, and even then I forsee itt being difficult.

As far as the tar smell I've heard numerous times, yeah, I guess if I was to take a nap with it as my pillow, I might pick up on the smell. However, when using it, I didn't get a hint of any smell. *NOTE* I am installing outside with all the windows open and t-tops off, so that could be a factor.

Also, this is extremely time consuming. The floor will probably go faster because it has big areas that can be cut and put on, but the doors have all sorts of cuts, angles, etc. that are a pain to fill with little pieces. Took about an hour and a half just for the door. I will covering the entire interior.

As for cost, this stuff was $129.99 shipped for 100 sq. feet. About the same cost as Peel and Stick from Lowes. Ordered on Wednesday, Here on Friday. They shipped it UPS, and I delivered it to myself (I'm the UPS guy).

Overall, very satisfied so far. Sticks great to metal/paint. We will see how well it sticks to the undercoating that I put down on the floor..,

84z .....

nice project, even being an 87 that 82/84 clip looks great

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sound deadening the doors like that will do little. Best place is the inside of the door skin way in there

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Very true. You need to deaden the inside of the outer door panel.

I used Dynamat Xtreme on the back half of my car. Pics are in the link in my sig. Still need to do my doors and front half of the car.

Are you going to use some POR-15 on the rust spots?

Nice work so far.

91zconvt

I did as much of the inside of the door panel as I could reach, as recommended.

As far as POR-15, I didn't use that, but I used something similar. The rust in the first few pictures I posted was surface rust, and I grinded it all away, and then sprayed the rust prohibitor / rubberized undercoating as seen in the last pictures of my first post. If you're talking about some other rust, please inform me of where you see it.

So here are a few more pictures of my progress. I think I'm done for the day






This was done with 1 50 Sq ft roll. I'd like to point out that for those who have asked the question, 100 Sq ft. is NOT enough to do the ENTIRE interior ADEQUATELY. While it will probably be very very close, there is not going to be enough to do the well in the hatch.

And another thing I'd like to mention for all the nay-sayers. I don't know where the argument that tar based products will fair in hot weather. This stuff is sticky. In fact, I'd like to offer the following to anyone who has said that this will not hold up. I challenge you, come to my house and try to peel one piece off. The first one's on me; after that any piece you damage while attempting to pull it off, you will pay for.

This stuff was originally meant for roofing. I'm pretty sure that a roof gets much hotter than the interior of any car.

ALSO, be careful with this stuff. It can and will cut you if you're not

91zconvt

Anyone know where the two cut wires in this picture are supposed to go? I believe they are the reason why the lights don't go on when the doors are opened, but can't figure out where they were supposed to connect to....Or WHY they're cut, for that...

If it matters, I have an overhead console.

91zconvt

*Still looking for any insight on those cut wires*

Anyway, another update. Finished the sound deadening





Take that rattles!

If you're going to do something, do it right the first time. Entire interior of the car is covered, sans the t-roof. All done with Fat Mat. If anyone is wondering, this stuff will NOT come off. I forgot to cut the holes for the seat belt receiver mounts, and I had to go searching for them. I tried peeling some off, and could not get it off. Ended up having to prod around with a screw driver.




First door panel done and mounted.



Finally starting to look like a car again. New carpet from A1 Auto is in. 4th gen seat belts are in. I ended up using the fourth gen belts, and the 3rd gen retractor cover to cover the gap in the sill plate. I took the mount off for that retractor so the 4th gen piece can mount like it's supposed to. I took the plastic sleeve off of the 4th gen part so the belt was exposed, and slid it through the opening in the 3rd gen cover. Fits perfects and looks stock. Will get some more pictures later when it's light out.

Most of the plastics are in now, but again, it's too dark for pics.

Still don't have any seats yet. Don't know what I'm doing about that yet. Still fighting with the guy who sold me the car to give them to me, as promised. Even if I do get them, they're 3rd gen and gray, which I'll probably end up selling anyway, for a set of black 4th gens.


Still left to do:

Recover the headliner and sail panel
Mount (and get) seats
Driver's door panel
kick panels
Passenger side sail panel
rear seat belts
Something with the lighting; LED's, etc.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Clean carpet and no interior makes the car seem brand new again. I love it when my seats are out

Your interior is looking good

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Did you put sub-frame connectors on the car yet? I'd have done that before putting the sound dampening material and carpet in.

91zconvt

No frame connectors yet...

They're on the [long] list

uemf

I'm thinking the 2 wires you were asking about are continuous 12V and it's own ground (I ran into something similar...)

Tony

91zconvt

Do you know what they're supposed to connect to though?

Like I said, my interior lights do NOT come on when I open the door. The only way they will come on is with the headlight ****. I have a feeling those wires are the culprit, but have no idea where they were supposed to go.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Those 2 wires are supposed to run to the driver's side door jamb switch... The reason they run to the overhead console is for the one switch in the console that manually turns the lights on and off on the pass side. If you don't have the driver's side switch, the doors won't turn the lights on.

Interior's looking nice, BTW.

91zconvt

Thanks...

As for the wires, I was thinking it must be something like that, but what I am confused about is that I cannot locate where the wires would plug into. On the overhead console, all the wires seem to be there. I can't find anywhere a plug would go.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

solid project i'm impressed.

I think i'm getting the urge to buy another camaro and restore it like i did my iroc

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Does the car still have the jamb switch on that side? The driver's side switch is a 2 wire for the fact that it does the job of both grounding the interior lights and it activates the buzzer circuit in the event that the key is in the column. Both wires would have female spade terminals on the end were they not cut, and they plug into the jamb switch.

:edit: Another wiring diagram for you, the dome circuit. This does not show the overhead console, but it's the same idea. The only addition the console has over the dome is the "Lights On" switch, which grounds the dome circuit the same as the door jamb switches do. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/114-0.jpg And the buzzer... http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/75-0.jpg

91zconvt

The switch is still in the door jamb. It does not do anything, however. The wires are cut in the A Panel. The wires are coming up from what I assume would be the jamb switch from what you have said, although I haven't really gotten in there to look. They are cut midway up the A Panel, and look like they should have continues to the overhead console as you have said. What I cannot figure out is where that end should plug into on the overhead console.

The wires that are intact go into a connector that plugs into the front of the console. The dome light is functional by pressing the button on the passenger side of the console. The Map light does not work, but it is because the bulb is burnt out. I will get another shortly to make sure that works. I just cannot figure out where the two wires would of plugged into ON THE CONSOLE. As far as I can see, every connector has something connected to it.

Thanks for the wiring diagrams; I will study those and try to figure it out.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Sounds to me like all you have to do is take off the old wires from the switch and either splice them back together or buy a couple spade connectors and put them on replacement lengths of wire. And yes, it is a total PITA to get those wires where they belong, but it should be a little easier for you seeing as how you have your entire interior removed. You will need to remove the door lock relay from where the driver's side kick panel was and the jamb switch stuff is back in behind there. I believe the wires are just run in there through the relay hole, but it's been a while since I've looked. If you'd like, I could look it up in my FSM.

The white wire runs to the overhead for the dome (at the 4-wire connector) and the tan one to the dash for the buzzer.

91zconvt

I'm getting more confused now. I think we're both talking about opposite ends of the wires here. The wires are connected at the door jamb. They run up the A panel towards the console, but do not reach it as they are cut. The color of the cut wires are red and green. There is also a white and orangeish one which are NOT cut. So, I need to figure out where on the overhead console that the green and red ones would connect to.

CaliChevyLover

a nose off a 91 rs wont be correct either.



what you need:

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Actually, more like different parts of the same circuit. Now that I have a diagram with the overhead console in it, I'm going to assume the orangeish wire you're referring to is the tan one for the door switch, along with the white one. My FSM says that if the dome light works with the headlight dimmer switch but not the doors (I'm assuming neither works the dome light), then you need to check the connection to the 15-way connector down by the fuse panel, high up under the dash, right in the corner. FSM says that this wire is orange, but it's possible it was replaced at some point for some reason with the red one. This is the one that supplies power to that part of the circuit (the light switch provides the ground when it is activated).. As for the green wire, do you have some other thing that doesn't work? Specifcally, power mirrors?

91zconvt

I realize it won't be correct, per say. I will put a z28 Grill in it, and be satisfied. I'm contemplating going with the 91/92 rocker panels anyways, so it could be a good thing. Now, if the previous owner would give me what was promised, that would be a good thing, too...

91zconvt

If you look at the picture above when I first mentioned the problem, it shows the wires hanging down out of the A Pillar. There is a white and Orange one that are not cut. I said orang-ish, because it's a red-ish orange. You can see the color in the pic. Those two wires plug into the front of the overhead console. That's how the console gets its power.

The wires that are cut are the red and green ones. For all I know, they may not be original, I don't know. But they're there, and they're cut. Could of been for a lighted mirror that it could of had at one point, but doesn't know...don't really know.

As for your questions, I have power mirrors, and they work fine. The dome light DOES come on when using the headlight switch. I can't think of anything that doesn't work, except I have no lights when opening the door.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I just thought of something. Can you get a hold of the prev owner and ask if there was an aftermarket alarm installed? I'm not entirely sure about the red wire, but my system uses a green wire tied into the dome light to light up the interior when the alarm is disarmed, and also to trigger the alarm if the door is opened and to arm the system when the last door is closed ("smart trigger"). I doubt that those wires are factory, and they're probably spliced in somewhere along the line. If the red wire is tied into the orange wire, then it may have been used to supply power to the alarm box, if that is what was there. Although why they would have put the power supply for the alarm on a circuit protected by a removable fuse, I have no idea. Maybe it was convienient, IDK.

Your dome light has power (orange wire), but there seems to be a break in the system between there and the door jamb switches (white wire, ground). Does the pass door do the same? If so, there is probably a problem between the door jamb switch splice and the dome light. Also, do the lights by the footwells work? The lower lights and the dome lights appear to be on separate parts of the same circuit, having only the fuse and the jamb switches in common.

91zconvt

If the previous owner would talk to me, maybe I'd have that '91 RS notes and the seats that were promissed to me.

The footwell lights work like they're supposed to, at least with the headlight switch. I don't know if the passenger door makes the lights come on, but I will check tomorrow.

Thanks for all your help. What I'm leaning towards is that the red and green were aftermarket for something, and that the switch, or the wiring going to it must be messed up somewhere...I guess the wires being cut are just coincidental.

91zconvt

Lights do NOT come on with passenger door...

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'll look in my FSM tomorrow if we're not stuck at the dealer all day and let you know where the splice is in the harness for the door switches. I'll PM you and let you know so you can get back to your thread.

Good luck with your build. The PO of my car also left headaches, a ton of them, and wiring that wasn't supposed to be there (probably what was a ground wire for an amplifier and a trailer harness among other things), so I know what you're going through trying to figure this out.

:edit: I don't know how good the Fat Mat is as a heat insulator, but you may be able to protect it from the heat of the sun that collects in the car by using home carpet underlayment over it and under the carpeting (remove the junk jute from the carpet first). This stuff is also good at keeping the heat and cold in the car where you need it. If you do this, make sure you get the stuff that has the blue plastic-like layer on the top, which would face the carpet (water resistant, used in bathrooms and the like). I priced the stuff for my car a couple years ago and the whole car most likely could have been done for $50 with some leftovers. I currently use it and like it much better than the moldy junk jute padding junk that was under the carpet when I bought the car.

hardon85

I always thought the noses were the same from 85-92 (except for 85-87 sport coupe, lt, berlinetta) and the only difference was the chin spoiler. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm 99.9% sure the noses are all identical

hardon85

Also I like the fatmat but a question for everyone else out there does this stuff help to induce rust or anything with this being on the floor? That is my only concern with this stuff being on there would be some sort of rust acceleration.

91zconvt

You are correct, they are the same. The chin spoiler is the only difference, besides minor changes in the grill. It's a personal preference. The 91-92 Nose is my favorite. I like how it looks from the side much better. The chin spoiler sticks out much further.

91zconvt

I don't see how one could arrive at the thought that this is a rust inhibitor. I'm no expert on this subject, though...

If anything, I think it would be a rust prohibitor. With this stuff covering the floor, it really seals it. I don't think water would penetrate it, but like I said, I really don't know. And I don't feel like soaking the stuff to find out...

hardon85

I don't know either, my only question would be if moisture got under there and it would have no where to go, I have heard of people who say undercoating can act the same way. I don't know I have no idea but that would be the only thing that would stop me from doing it it looks like awesome stuff

91zconvt

I would say it couldn't be any worse than stock. If moisture gets under the carpet when stock, it gets into the jute padding and never dries, so...

mos68x

Looks good man!! I just noticed this this thread so I'm a little slow. How long did it take you to get the sound deadening in the car? I have my DD that I'd really like to do this to, but obviously time is a big issue. I could drive it half done and all the interior out if necessary, but it would be nice if this could be done mostly in a weekend.

lisubie

Great job, cars looking new again! A bit off topic, what size are those wheels?

91zconvt

Sorry, haven't updated this thread in a while. I have made a ton of progress, and taken pictures. I just haven't gotten around to uploading anything yet.

I would say you need at least a weekend to do the sound deadining. I suppose if you're REALLY motivated, you could get it done in a day, but it's very time consuming. Putting the interior back together is also very time cosuming.

As for the wheels, they're 16", but not sure of the width. Don't seem as wide as stock, maybe 8"?

Will update soon. Interior is all black and in. New Nose is on, but wrong color...It's back

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

great looking project you've got going on. those floor pans look way too good to be a Mass. car

Camaro-454

iTrader: (1)

Great looking car. Awsome work you're doing to it, and great job of all you have done to it. It's really shaping up Bro.

Correct me if I'm mistaken here, but you're selling this Beautiful machine????

If so. how much do you want for it? ( Please be gentle. Poor man with big dreams right now. LOL )

Anyways, I have a 92 RS, with a 3.1L V6 that runs, engine & tranny fine, pretty much everything works but it does need a little work, all minor stuff. My biggest problem? I Don't have a title for the sucker, so it's just a parts car as I can NEVER get a title for it now or register it for the road. The good thing is that I have everything I need pretty much to build a car from using it for parts.

When you said that you had an overhead console. the first thing that came to my mind was a Berlinetta, as those were the Camaros that sported that, but of course like it's been said here many times by others, pretty much anything can be added to the car in after market additions.

Anyways. whatever you decide to do with your car, it's looking Really good and the work you're doing on it is top notch. I hope the PO comes through for you as well and does the right thing.

Best wishes on all your endeavors but Do let me know what your plans are for the car. I'm enjoying watching your tread and again, great job on everything.


Camaro-454

avilla20

man who in there right mind would paint a metallic blue iroc that nasty color. imo

dirtrides2009

Are you talking about the POR15 he did? It would be covered by carpet so why would it matter

white gold 88

If you haven't figured out your dome lights yet, remove the dash pad and there should be a connector for the dome light wires below it. There was on my 84 anyway. Come to think of it, the connector got corroded and kept my dome light from working.

91zconvt

Sorry...been a while since I've been on here.

Unfortunately, I do have to sell the car. Need to do some things to the house I recently bought and need to prioritize a little bit.

I did get everything straight with the previous owner, got the seats but they're gray, the nose off the '91, but it's black, and a aftermarket hood but it's light blue, lol.

Anyways, the nose is on, but it's still black. The car is a very dark blue, and is not all that noticeable. Interior is all in, dome light is working, new tires, etc. Still needs an AC delete box to hook the heater back up.

I am selling it locally (MA) for $3500/BO. I'm not in a dire need to sell it, so that price is pretty firm. I'm willing to wait for the right person. A\

So, I don't know if I can really be advertising the sale on this forum, so I'll just post the only recent pictures I have, even if they're cell phone pics and not the best of quality...