RAGEman

I cannot find this connector, it is nowhere on the LT1 harness. If anyone knows where this is and what to do with it, please help me. Thank you.

TexasLT1

the actual VATS box is mounted inside the passenger compartment. There is only 1 wire that actually goes to the PCM though.

RAGEman

So, it is not part of the LT1 harness? Im still confused. Sorry. And which wire is it that I need to go to the PCM?

TexasLT1

no I don't think its part of the harness per se. I think the actual name of the wire is "Fuel Enable" and it is in like the C200 connector or something.

*EDIT* Ok, I checked it out, it should be on the C230 connector, and it IS "Fuel Enable", dark blue wire. Look here
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm4.jpg

RAGEman

That wire should be the same wire as the E slot wire on the blue 10 pin connector correct?

See, the problem I am having is the car will crank, start, and run for a few seconds (30 or so) and sputter to it's death. It sounds like it is missing badly or has a bad timing issue. Im just trying to trace my steps and see what I might have done wrong. When wiring the car up, I used the "LT1 wiring for dummies" wiring harness description, and I went through everything, but I didnt ever find the VATS 16 pin PASSKEY II. I think that might have something to do with it, but from what you said, and what I thought, the "Fuel enable" on the PASSKEY and the "fuel enable" on the blue 10 pin should be the same. Right?

TexasLT1

yep, same wire.

RAGEman

Ok. Thats what I thought. So, do you have any ideas as to what might be my problem? Did you have any problems after you first installed yours?

TexasLT1

with it running that long, no I'm not real sure. Mine would run for 2-3 seconds and shut-off. We ended up replacing the VATS module with a new one, repinned for my connector, hooked the correct wire up, and everything was good.

RAGEman

So, your VATS bypass module was bad? Which one did you use? It doesnt always run that long. Most the time about 15 sec or so, but it has ran for over 30. And if I give it throtlle it will run forever, but runs like crap.
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You should come to my house and fix my car. lol. I just live in Baytown. Not far. Im actually getting my exhaust done in Angleton. My buddy Aaron Krenek used to live in West Columbia, he worked at M+M motorsports and he know some guy over there that does good exhaust work.

Klortho

Mine ran long enough to build a bit of oil pressure, about 3 seconds then shut off, then I hooked the laptop up and programmed the VATS crap out. Now if you don't have the MAF hooked up, this may be your problem. My car won't run without the MAF hooked up and it would start up and continue running until I let off the gas, then it would die. Did you change the plugs or plug wires? Alot of the LT1's I have seen people normally don't, because you have to take the PS pump and alternator off to change the passenger side wires on the car.

TexasLT1

I didn't use a bypass module, I replaced the actual VATS module itself.

I'm guessing thats Craig who will be doing your exhaust. He's one of the better known exhaust guys around here. And sorry, I don't do house calls

RAGEman

I do have the MAF connected now, but I did have to extend the wires so that it would reach, so I will check them to make sure they are good splices. I did also change the plugs and wires. I have checked the firing order at least 10 times (seriously) and it's all right. I remember going through some past post and you said something about your Fuel Pump relay, and you had to change it? What was the deal with that? Or was that even you? Thanks for the input.


TexasLT1 - no house calls eh? I bet you would for a $5'er . I kid. Im pretty sure that would'nt even cover your gas. I'm just joking, I'll figure it all out eventually. Thanks for the help.

Klortho

Yup, that was me, I tried to use both the original TPI relay, a new TPI relay, and the relay from my MPFI V6 and none ever got enough power to the pump. I had to turn the key on and off 2-3 times, never hear the fuel pump prime then it would start, run like crap and shut off. After I put the new relay in, I could hear it prime and then bam, it would start and run like a champ.

RAGEman

What size realy did you use? I'll try that, but I am hearing the fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, so I dont supposed it will do me any good.

Klortho

I just got a 30 amp 4 pole relay.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

what do you do with this wire if you delete the VATS?? relay?? my car never had VATS, '93 the LT1 was in did.

ACCLR8N

iTrader: (8)

The VATS generates a special pulsing signal that is sent to the PCM through that dark blue wire. You need either a VATS, VATS bypass module or have VATS programmed out of your PCM. Thats how it prevents bad guys from hot wiring your car. Unfortunately, as you found out, this isn't part of the engine harness.