V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

To be honest, it actually started a couple of weeks ago with the first part of disassembly, but I just didn't feel like I'd made enough progress to comment on it.

I still haven't gotten a LOT done, but I have most of the "major" swap parts I'll be needing (oil pan/accessories/intake/pedals/tranny crossmember, etc.), & I'll be making the calls this morning to get the engine & tranny shipped here...

For those who haven't seen my car (or don't recall what it looks like), here's a picture:





A couple of "before" pics of the engine:




How it sat for the last week, week & a half or so - the headers & intake were removed, & the transmission was all but ready to drop out:



And as of yesterday afternoon - Look ma, no drivetrain!!



Unfortunately, that probably means that I'm done with the EASY part of the swap!

Up next, I'm planning on pushing it out into the driveway for a good pressure-washing, & maybe a bit of detailing. I haven't decided on whether or not to paint the engine bay - now would be the time to do it, but I haven't been able to think of a color that would look good, besides the stock outside color. (I'd kinda like something that would show leaks also...)

Regardless, I'm going to have to get in there & start labeling wires, since that's the one down side to having 3 & 4 friends helping- things happen too quickly for details like that...! (Fortunately, I have the factory shop manual for the car, so it's just a matter of being patient & doing them one by one...)

Wish me luck guys...

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

When I did my swap, I sold my TPI harness and used some pig tails I swiped from a V6 car. No reason hacking up a good harness, plus I sold it and the old TPI drivetrain for a decent amount.

Good luck with it! The easy part is over with

-jason

Klortho

If you can find a v6 harness, that's the way to go. That is what I used (mainly because the original car was a V6 before the GTA) and made things way easier at the bulkhead connector.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Are you guys saying to use a V6 harness to interface between the new engine & the rest of my car, rather than cutting up the harness that's in there now?

That's the only thing that seems to make sense, although I wasn't planning on pulling the harness I have now...

Thanks guys.

A10Beav

iTrader: (1)

Nice car! Good luck with the swap.

1987earthquake

iTrader: (5)

I used the stock carb harness that came in mine

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Dang rumble...thats a good looking GTA! Guess Ill be keeping an eye on your build as Im working on mine! Good luck!

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Glad to see you're turning wrenches on your own and not just on other people's. . .

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. I've gotta admit, I'm a little bit intimidated by the engine I'm getting - I REALLY didn't want to deal with the drive-by-wire thing (especially when it comes to troubleshooting it in the future), but... everything else that comes with the package is just too much to resist.

Yeah, I do enjoy turning wrenches & helping people, but it IS nice to see progress on my own project...

J's T/A

iTrader: (2)

Have fun, keep us updated!

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Heh, thanks J, I'll be sure to send you a pic of your crossmember, once it's installed...

Well, I just got back from sending the two cashier's checks to the people who are selling me the engine & transmission... I've gotta say, I had some real second thoughts, especially about the engine (but then I remembered that I was finding USED L92 engines on car-part.com for more than I'm paying for this one)...

By this time next week, I'll probably be doing a little "Snoopy dance" when they arrive...

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Y'know, when I can kind of "step back" & think about it, I find it kind of interesting...

The new engine arrives Monday. I kid you not, I'm like a freakin' "6-year-old on Dec. 22nd"!! Heaven only knows how long it's been since I've felt like this...

(Now if I could just get a line on when my tranny's gonna ship...)

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear! Im going to be watchin this swap closely, im considering doing the same swap next year and replacing my 5.3L.

As for the wiring. Ive used the truck harness, Cavalier fuse box, and then my iroc's C100 connector (big plug under the brake booster, one half has headlight stuff, other has wires like wipers, guage inputs, ign. relay, fuses etc) and then im going to try to use my Interior plug that plugs in under the dash on the passenger side. Otherwise the engine harness from my thirdgen is gone. I did cut it up, because i sold my engine without it. Im using those 2 plugs, and then also using the injector pigtales because im going to convert to the LS1 plug instead of the truck/LS2

Hope that helps

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Cool, that does help, thanks. (The only thing that I'm running into is that it seems to be rather tough to find used harnesses since this engine came out fairly recently... Ah well, I'll figure something out!)

I find it slightly ironic that I'm actually going to receive the engine first, since I ordered the trans well before I even found the engine (but to be honest, I DID ask the vendor to hold on to it for me for a little bit). And I'm actually planning on installing the pedals, master/slave cylinders, etc. before I drop the engine in, I figure that might save me a little bit of grief...

OK, back to the "search" function again...

bradley92rs

I am interested in this swap V8 i been lurking here for awhile and am working on getting the last few thing for my swap together (lq4 carbed with l92 heads and t56) and was wondering where you ordered the trans from, sixspeedinc.com stage 4+ here btw i missed one of these by a week i had just ordered my moser 9" a week before the guy posted the thread for these on ls1tech just my luck

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (1)

If you contact LKQ or Cleveland pick-a-part they may be able to help you out with the wiring harness.

I finally found a pedal for mine, still need a TAC module. Ive decided to run manifolds and leave it all stock as i bought some billet fuel rails, SVO injectors, and a T-70 turbo. Next winter, its gettin boosted

Back on topic!

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Bradley - I also got my T-56 from SixSpeedsInc.com, but mine's the stage 4, not the 4+. (Budget had to give way somewhere, & that was one of the decisions I made...)

Yeah, I spent a good part of yesterday looking for that stuff - was surprised that I didn't find an electronic pedal on e(vil)Bay... Sure HOPE that I don't have to buy too much stuff new...!

And thanks, I'll contact those two companies tomorrow...

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, I have another question - given how everyone talks about how tight the clearance is between the K-member & the oil pan, would it perhaps be worthwhile to heat the center portion of the K-member up a little bit, & "clearance" it just a little? I'm thinking of using my 4 lb. mini-sledge.

And no, I'm not talking about heating it enough to affect the metal's temper, just a bit of heat, localized right at the rear-center (most likely using a heat gun).

I know that I definitely wouldn't want any of it to go up any higher (& possibly cause issues with the bottom of the pan) - I'm just wondering if it's something that might be worth addressing since I already have everything out & it's easy to get to right now... (Or am I nuts to even think about this...?)

Thanks guys.

cam-

The K member is mild steel there is no temper to it so fear not heat away if thats what you want to do. I just used an angle grinder and a BFH with no heat to clearance mine until I was happy. I worked it until I could slide cardboard between the pan and the K member in all areas but I could have gone more if need be I just didnt see a need.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

most of what hits seems to be the weld on the edge of the k-member.(I did fine with a mini sledge on a cold k-member.. bends real easy) I hit mine in so the weld was flush but I could have gone in more since I would have liked a 1/4 inch of clearance however mine is like cam's where I can slide a chunk of carboard in there.

also if you plan on running ac and using the stock f-body ls1 compressor now is the time to notch it.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

It's here...!





The engine arrived a little earlier this week, in order to save a bit of money I picked it up from the terminal - and given the fact that we'd traded in our pickup just a couple weeks ago, there were a couple of times when I was thinking that it would've been worth it to just have 'em deliver it...

Not a WHOLE heck of a lot to report yet, got the engine unloaded, pulled the truck intake manifold off & got it onto the engine stand. I did clearance the K-frame just a little bit, like '88 350 tpi formula' I hit it just enough so that the welds are even with the edge of the K... Pulled one or two more things off from under the hood, & getting ready to start taking a bunch of stuff out of the interior...

(And that's all for today's episode of "As the Wrench Turns..."!)

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

OK, what's the trick to getting the motor mounts off of the K-member?? When I hit 'em with the air gun, the bolts just spin, & in the little bit of time I had last week, I didn't see a way to get a wrench on the back side - although I know there has to be... (Yes, I have searched, all over the 'net in fact...)

(Keep in mind that I'm really trying to cut down on my usage of profanity...)

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

There are nuts on the back of the bolts... you have to go in through the ends where the control arms bolt up. You can get in there. But you might just need to sneak the wrench in. I cant remember... But you can do it

Engine looks good!!!

J.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

And - just that quickly - I THINK that I'm no longer worried about removing the motor mounts... Looks like I have a slightly different plan now... Thank you though!!

Thanks J, but I can't put it in just bare like that... I'm trying to figure out what color might look decent, & still let me see fluid leaks when they occur. I think that 'Chevy Orange' would look hideous with the exterior color of my car...

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

NICE grab on that k-member... I saw that and almost jumped on it But im glad you got it. I already have mine set up, and I dont need to spend any more money. haha.

J.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Heh - thanks. I hadn't planned on buying one/doing that mod, but the price was just WAY too good to pass up...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I guess that means the mount plates aren't going to be of any use to you, either.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

No, actually I backed out of the K-member deal - when I did some checking, it turned out that it wouldn't work with stock springs, I'd need to go to a coil-over front end. I don't mind spending an extra $300 or so to lose 15-20 lbs up front (where it'll help the most), but I'm sure as heck not gonna spend $600-$1000, especially when I hadn't planned on it...

So... It's back to "Plan A"...

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

OK, here's the first "gremlin" to raise it's ugly little head - I can't get the bulkhead wiring connector apart. I don't mean that it's stubborn, I don't mean that it's hard to get to, I mean that it WILL NOT COME APART...

I know that there are three clips on it that need to be lifted, one on the top, one on the bottom, & one on the side that's closest to the engine. I thought that it was probably just me, that I wasn't able to get it by myself, so I had a F-bud of mine over, just to lend that extra hand, & an extra pair of eyes.
We worked on it for over an hour. We used prybars, screwdrivers, anything & everything that we thought would let us separate the wiring harness there - no go.

I suspect that there's a good reason for it, but I'm REALLY hoping that my suspicions aren't correct... About 4 years ago, I suddenly lost the use of my interior lights, headlights, & a couple of other things. (All of that has since been fixed.) I suspect that the picture below might have something to do with all of that...



The red wire at the left of the picture shows where the repair simply bypassed the bulkhead connector - but I'm afraid that the two halves of the bulkhead connector MAY have been melted together...

Does anyone have a picture of what the harness side of the bulkhead connector is supposed to look like once it's separated?? I'd really rather think that the two of us were idiots, & just prying in the wrong place, but the locations of the clips seemed to make it fairly obvious...

Man, I'm REALLY hoping that someone has a good/worthwhile suggestion for this...

Thanks in advance guys...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There's a screw in the middle of the connector, engine compartment side.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

From a thread in the main Engine Swap forum:

And the response:

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Man, that's a relief, we obviously weren't able to see one. Thanks five7...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I went out and looked at Berlinetta #2 before clicking "Submit Reply", and it's sitting there plain as day. But, I can see from your pic why you couldn't see yours. . .

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

OK, for any of you who are registered on LS1Tech, I've posted a question up there - it's got me kind of nervous & scratching my head a bit. Being a n00b to internal engine mods, it may be nothing, but I'm not going any farther with this until I know for sure one way or the other...

Any help/advice appreciated. Thanks guys.

(And no, I still haven't been able to get that flippin' bulkhead connector apart!)

Steve86TA

iTrader: (57)

there is a 1/4" screw/bolt holding the bulkhead connecter together.Its directly in the center.If you think thats a pain,then your in for a real surprise

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Well, thanks Steve, but I've been working on that screw/bolt for a little while now... I'm guessing that the flippin' thing has both halves melted together. I'm wondering if I'm going to have to implement some kind of work-around...

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

You won't get many responses from them in that forum, cut and paste it in the conversions and hybrids forum, you would have had your response by now. I myself never encountered that situation, but regardless though, you might want to PM the moderator "J-Rod" on LS1Tech, he'll know for sure....

-Rob

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Rob, I appreciate the suggestion. But by the time I'd seen it, I'd already said "screw it", & just blazed full-speed ahead. Time will tell if that was the wise course of action or not, but I've gone back over my decision, & I'm comfortable with it. (See the edited section of my 2nd post in that thread for details.)

I actually made a TINY little bit of progress today, I changed out the stock rod bolts for ARP's, got a decent start on pulling the interior, AND (best of all!) I FINALLY took delivery of my newly-rebuilt T56!!! I'm not going to go into all of the details of why it took six weeks for the bloody thing to travel about 1,000 miles, I'm just going to say that I'm really happy that I no longer have THAT to deal with now... (I told my wife that I could've borrowed a horse & two strong poles, & dragged it here more quickly...) From everything I've been able to determine, the problem wasn't caused at all by the transmission's builder, they just used a VERY bad solution for shipping...

My clutch is supposed to get here on the 18th, & I think that should be most (if not all) of the "big" pieces for the swap. It'll sure be nice (I think!!) to be able to start fitting things together & seeing where the "gremlins" are hiding...

I'll try & post pics tomorrow, I'm a bit beat tonight...

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

OK, I'm going to try to play "catch-up" a little bit here. One of the first things that I did was to pull the oil pan from the new engine - unlike a lot of you guys, I haven't torn into a whole bunch of engines, & this is my very first brand-spankin'-new one. New rod bolts were always part of the plan (cheap insurance), but honestly, I also wanted to check it out, & see the differences from the Gen-I engines that I'm more used to.

I got a bit of a surprise when I first got the pan off - can you see it in this picture?? I think that robots on assembly lines can be a good thing, but they're definitely not perfect... (I also wanted to see if I could capture the "windows" in the block that are new to the Gen-IV series. Not sure that I accomplished that...)



Take a minute or two, don't "cheat" & look at the picture below until you either see what I'm referring to, or give up... (This one makes it fairly obvious...)



I sure hope that's the only screw-up inside this engine!!

I had kind of a "what the hell" moment, & decided to show the visual differences between the ARP rod bolts & the stock units:



I did wind up getting a LITTLE bit done today, just for grins I bolted the bellhousing that I bought up to the tranny - partially because I wanted to ensure that they "played nicely together", & partially because seeing the tranny with the bellhousing attached made it look/seem more like a "real" transmission. (I was pleasantly surprised to see that it's already clearanced for the slave cylinder, I hope that doesn't bite me at any tech inspection {although it shouldn't, since it's required for the tranny to function}...)

I made the decision to forgo one or more engine mods so that I could buy the bellhousing. While I really do want to have a quicker car, I've heard enough stories about 'good-sized flying chunks of metal' to make me err on the side of caution. It IS SFI-approved (which usually means expen$ive), but I got it used so it wasn't quite as bad. Besides, I'm building this car for the Bonneville salt first & foremost, but after that I'm giving serious thought to open-road events in either Nevada or Nebraska (with a fair bit of drag racing in between), and I do NOT want to take safety issues lightly at triple-digit speeds... It's just a lot easier to just bite the bullet & deal with it now, rather than have to pull it apart later to re-do it...

I also got started on pulling the interior apart. I'd removed the rear seats a little while ago on one of my "GTA weight-loss" binges, so I started working on the rest of it. Discovered an odd (or bizarre, depending on your viewpoint) trim difference between the driver's & passenger's seats, but didn't have the camera with me, so maybe I'll note that later (it's not directly relevant to an LSx swap anyway)...

Between the unusually muggy weather & the heat from the trouble light inside the car, I was distinctly uncomfortable while trying to get things done today. It also didn't help that I parked entirely too close to the wall in an effort to leave some parking space for my wife, so I literally had to expel all of the air from my lungs before fitting myself into the driver's side of the car.

I'll include this as my final shot for today - it's my own personal "feel-good image", since it has the engine, the transmission & the car finally all together in the same place...



(Yes, the engine is upside-down, when I turned it right-side-up I discovered that there was still a tiny bit of oil inside, which looked to the camera like a bladder accident in progress! Besides, this shows the GTA emblem as well...)

I have family flying in tomorrow, so posting will likely be light-to-nonexistent over the next few days - but the next time I get the chance, I'll document an "interesting" Gen-IV engine fitment issue that I discovered the other day. I'd like to see what you guys have to say...

TPI TERR

iTrader: (9)

what bellhousing are u using there??? p/n?

mcleod?

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Looks like your making progress Tim. Can't wait to see this on the road, and for you to figure out all the little tricks on making this work... so I can steal them from you!

Later man,
B

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for the delay in responding, I was intending to go out to the garage & wrestle it around to see if I could find the brand & PN, the problem is that I've messed up one of my wrists, & I'm waiting for that to get better...

Then I remembered that I might have saved that series of PMs, so I looked, & sure enough, there's part of the answer anyway... The part number is 8710-10. I don't recall the brand name for sure, but I think it is McLeod...

Brandon - You could learn the tricks a whole lot better if you'd drag yer butt over here & help wrench!!

EDIT: (Yep, it's McLeod, I did a quick search & found the thread...)

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Well, I've made a bit of progress, even if it's not going as quickly as I'm wishing it would... (heh)

I was fortunate enough to have one of my local F-buds swing by on Monday, & we took a look at that {insert your own string of vituperatives here} bulkhead connector. With two people on the job, we could finally tell that it was (apparently) attached on the inside by one of those wafer-looking things like what are used to attach the overhead light to the roof, just a bit larger - and, NATURALLY, it was happily spinning away...

With the problem thus defined, you would think that the resolution would be fairly simple - just keep it from spinning, & voilà, problem solved! If only...

That stinking disc did a spectacular job of overcoming everything we did to hold it - there wasn't enough depth to it to really grab it, I tried wedging a screwdriver in there to keep it from spinning, but it simply rotated the screwdriver around, etc. We switched places, & I finally told him to just grab it as hard as humanly possible, "I don't care if we break the damn thing, just keep it from turning!", & with the help of a decent pair of pliers, we were able to do just that (keep it from turning that is - I don't think we broke it, though I don't really care at this point...).

Once we FINALLY got it separated, we saw that it has some dark-brownish "goop" in there - I don't recall seeing that on any of the other bulkhead connector pictures that I've seen on TGO - take a look & see what you think:



I'll probably take a swab or two along with some "TV tuner cleaner" or similar & see if I can't get that stuff off before I work with it any more.

With that out of the way, I've been doing some of the "drudge work" involved in the swap - chasing the rest of the wiring harness & removing it as I go, cleaning the used windage tray/splash pan/dipstick pieces that I'll be using, pulling the seats (found 97 cents so far, so it's WAY cool that I'm not working for FREE... ), removing the center console, & getting ready to lift the carpet & start on the pedals. I've gotten statements from a couple of other guys that they'll come over to help too, so I still have a LITTLE bit of hope that it'll get done before the snow's flying again...

Also - about the fitment issue that I mentioned earlier... For whatever reason, there is a hole drilled & tapped into the bottom of the block, that the oil pan doesn't have drilled. I looked at it, thought about it some, & couldn't think of a good reason why I shouldn't drill the hole in the oil pan's flange to use it. Discussed it some with my neighbor (a retired HVAC guy who's worked w/ his hands for most of his life), & he also thought that it would probably be OK, so we did. Given the fact that even the gasket is created with the hole in that location, I really doubt that there will be any significant negative effect to doing this. I don't know that there will be a huge positive effect (I'd guess probably not), but at least the clamping forces from side to side are a little bit more equalized now...

Nothing especially exciting I guess, but a little bit of progress is still progress, right?

(One other note - as he was getting ready to leave, my buddy said something to the effect of "Man, you've still got so much work to do! You could take a whole month off of work, & by the end of it, you'd probably be just about done..." It really kind of took the wind out of my sails some. If I'm able to devote 10-20 hours/week to this, how long would you think it should take?? Thanks guys.)

cam-

The goop belongs there its an anti-corrosive so dont clean its beneficial.

As for time? Took me two years. Mind you i did a full mock-up, did my own harness, mounts, complete fuel system, A/C, Crossmember tqa relocation, new suspension, new posi, 1350 yoke and new drive shaft ( new yoke requires redoing gear install ), painted engine compt ( epoxy primed and urethane ), fabbed my entire exhaust with insane attention to detail, added gauges, painted brake calipers base clear and added prop valve and new lines, mounted PCM under dash, swapped cam, valve springs, rod bolts, oil pump, intake, push rods, alternator and on and on and on theres tons more so it takes some serious time to do a nice job and finish all the details. I didnt have much time to devote to the build so it was weekends and the odd evening and two years rolled around like nothing but its done and I drive it all the time and I am very pleased now.

Theres some controversial thoughts in a couple of those links in the sticky about how long it actually takes for this swap. I recall getting into words with one mouth piece who chimed off that it should only take a month or so but not everyone wants to just drop one in and get it running with no accessories to speak of and theres lots of nec details to make the swap an upgrade in all areas. So keep your chin up and your hands buried in tools and you'll get there. The first ride is a very rewarding experience

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Thanks cam, I think you saved me from a mistake there.

Figured I'm long-overdue for an update, but it's been a long week this week, so I'm pretty much just going to let the pictures do the talking...

Got the seats, center console, steering column & original pedals out. Looking at this mess is (for me) perhaps the most nerve-wracking part of the build. Intellectually I know that as long as I'm methodical & patient putting everything back together, I should be OK, but somehow, I have more trepidation about this than I do about getting the wiring harness put together correctly...



One of my local F-buds came by & did a lot of the work of getting my new Walbro 255 pump installed (Mark, you ROCK!) since he'd done it before. I was fairly surprised at how close the tank is to the sheetmetal there, I would've punched the drill bit into the top of the tank for sure if I would've done it...



Now I've heard some people argue that by cutting this access hole, you're weakening the car's structure - but after seeing & doing this, all I can say is "You're kidding, right?" OK, yes, in an absolute sense the overall structure of the car is (without question) less rigid - but in all honesty, I can't see it affecting the total structure by even 1%. But I currently have subframe connectors welded on, & before I'll even be allowed to run my class at Bonneville I'll have to have a 6-pt rollbar welded in, so this is essentially a non-issue for me.

Just for informational purposes, here is a picture of the high-pressure hose clamps that I used, rather than the normal "worm clamps" that you see on radiator hoses. And yes, the rubber hose that I used is rated for 80+ psi, even though the total run for each line is less than 1/2" on any of them...



I took advantage of Mark being here, & we popped the driveshaft back into the rear end so that we could lift my "new" T-56 into just about the right place for us to mark & cut the hole for the shifter.

If it looks too small, then you've got a pretty good eye - the tranny's placement just "didn't look right" to me (granted, I was under the car, so I didn't have the best perspective), so I decided to cut the hole too small. It's always easy to cut MORE, right?



Just a quick shot of the new DBW pedal, since I was trying to work out how it would be mounted...



The used F-body oil pan I bought had so much grunge on it that it could've moved to Seattle & performed in a Nirvana reunion tour - but a few hours sitting in some warm soapy water got some of it off, then I hit it with a couple of soapy steel-wool pads which helped a LITTLE bit as well. But once it got 20 minutes in a dealership's hot-tank...



Yowza! Aside from a little bit of residual crap on the back of the pan, it looks as new as the brand-new block it's sitting on!!

That's about it for right now, can't wait to get back at it this week...

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Lookin good! I think i should let you finish yours first, so i can see how you do your headers, and electronic pedal first

Only think id look into changing is the motor mounts, i had those plates on it, and the engine sat about 1.5" forward, theres no way in hell the f-body pan will fit in there with those style mounts, and at that point the driveshaft is short and wont get enough contact with the tailshaft housing.

Ive got a few pictures in a thread somewhere in here about those style mounts not working out for me, ill link you too it.

Ill post up some pictures next week when i finish my 2nd header & Y-pipe, then you can get some more idea's about what your looking at for yours, and when i finish my electronic pedal fit situation.

Good luck!

Sheldon

Blownz28man

iTrader: (2)

Glad to see it all commin along. That sucks about you c100 connector. Good Luck!

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I'm working on the DBW pedal today, hopefully I'll have pics up tonight.

One other question I have - I'd always thought that the fuel filter/regulator that we need would be one from a '97 or '98 Vette, but I saw a post on LS1Tech where someone advised using one from a 2000-ish Corvette (and the sticky in this forum doesn't specify). Can anyone fill me in on which one to get?

(FWIW, if I check the two types on rockauto.com, the '97 or '98 unit is like $11, whereas the 2000 model is $40-45, so I'd definitely suspect the latter, but I don't want to have to order more than once...)

Thanks guys!

SheldonZ28

iTrader: (1)

Hey Rumble,

the Filter/Reg you need is from a 2000+ Vet, dual inlet, single out. Their about $60 from summit. Ive got one here that i bought brand new from summit, but then i decided to use teh 4th gen tank setup.

$50 shipped if 'ya want it

V8Rumble

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for confirming that!! BTW, check your inbox...