LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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I haven't seen any posts on this subject, but has anyone else noticed how much lighter the steering is after a LT1 swap? I've got a B-body Lt1, and while I barely remember what the GTA felt like before, now after the swap the steering is so light i can almost turn the wheel with my pinky finger when the car is parked. It really is that light.
If thats just the way it is, I think I might replace my steering box with a custom unit down the road. I'd prefer a heavier wheel. At high way speeds there is so much assist that the car wanders over every bump and imperfection in the road. Far more than it used to.
the b-body steering pump will be like that.
i have a caprice and it is literally the lightest steering car i have ever driven.
im talking 5 turns lock to lock and parallel parking with my index finger.
then again its an 18:1 or something box so thats what you get.
the iroc box is 12.7:1
the b-body steering pump will be like that.
i have a caprice and it is literally the lightest steering car i have ever driven.
im talking 5 turns lock to lock and parallel parking with my index finger.
then again its an 18:1 or something box so thats what you get.
the iroc box is 12.7:1
I have a 94' 9C1 myself and I'll agree with ya, the steering is light. I do find myself wondering now and then, but too bad. Very nice when your just cruising along as it takes almost nothing to turn em. I'm in the middle of an LT1 swap in my firebird so I'll have to check it out when I finish
and the 9C1 option had a quicker ratio box than the civvie caprice did.
mine is an 84, but the mechanical features (any suspension parts or steering parts, as well as the actual frame itself) were the same from 79-96. there were some small changes between 79-94 and 94-96 model years, mainly the body changed, but all the underlying parts remained the same
So does the B-body LT1 pump put out more pressure than the F-body LT1 pump? If so, I have an F-body pump i can swap in to reduce the power assist.
I'm also finding that I might need to make some custom power steering lines for the system. Everyone says you can bend the B-body lines to fit, but i've bent two of them, and the 1st set was so kinked as to be unusuable, and the 2nd set barely works as flow is restricted.
I'd almost rather go to a shop with the two ends and have a custom flex line made to fit. It would almost be cheaper.
truly puzzling... maybe the b-body pump puts out an outrageous amount of pressure or something.
actually, that makes sense because the cars did a lot of idling (the cop cars that is) and cops need to be able to parallel park easily with minimal effort. who knows lol...
truly puzzling... maybe the b-body pump puts out an outrageous amount of pressure or something.
actually, that makes sense because the cars did a lot of idling (the cop cars that is) and cops need to be able to parallel park easily with minimal effort. who knows lol...
While stuck at a light today I used my pinky finger alone to turn the wheels lock to lock. 1 pinky finger alone. Thats alot of assist cause I know trying to turn the wheel without any assist at a stop is down right impossible. I'm afraid of breaking the rag joint if I do that.
b bodys are heavier right so maybe they need more pressure to drive comfortably and they are no sports car so the driver doesnt want a workout but i dont know
If you can find a under-drive pulley for it that would help.
If the car wanders around, it is out of alignment.
You should be able to let go of the wheel (not that you
should) on a level road and have it go straight.
No, it drives straight. Until it hits pavement imperfections, dips, grooves etc. Without the power steering it was fine. But after I hooked the power steering up it found every groove and followed it.
Granted I plan on replacing everythign later, but its not worn beyond use. The level is wear is actually quite good for 105,000 miles.
you could also get a restrictor valve and put it in the lines. that would bleed of some pressure and make the steering feel heavier.
i agree about the underdrive pully as well.
If your car follows strips on the road (called nerves) then it's
out of alignment. The tires are pointed straight. It should be
toed in just a little bit.
Jack up the front and loosen the 2 adjuster lock nuts for the tie-rod
ends and give the center adjuster a half turn too make it shorter.
I think looking from the front it will turn top down. You want to shorten
it a little. You can look at the threads and see which way to turn it.
Then tighten the nuts back up, let it down and take it for a spin......
