jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I had a trans cooler that I used on my other car years ago so I decided to use it on this car since I put a 3200 stall torque converter in. I mounted the trans-cooler then realized I had the wrong size of trans cooler hose. I'll pick up the right size hose later this week.

Next I need to figure out the vacuum lines/pcv system and heater hoses. Anyone have any input on the best way to do the heater hoses? I'm planning on using the stock 3rdgen heater valve. Looks like I will need some sort of T or reuse the stock metal heater hose line that ran along the passenger side?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here's what I did for my heater hoses. I reused the stock hard line. Not sure if it would work with the headers though. I retained the stock heater valve as well. I can take a better, more current pic for you if you'd like.


Is that trans cooler going to get enough air flow being mounted to the back of the bumper like that? I like the idea though

Your swap is coming along nicely by the way! Real clean car.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I ran mine up to the front of the engine and down like it was stock. I was worried about exhaust heat bringing it in from the back.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

The cooler sits behind the opening for the fog light so I think it will get plenty of air. I'm not sure how the openings on the front of your car would compare though since its a Trans Am?

If you have time get some more pics of your heater valve setup. Like you said though I'm not sure if that would work for me since I have headers but maybe if I located the valve more to the outside of the car it would be far enough away from the heat. Thanks for the comments and the help. My other LS swapped car doesn't have heat/AC and is carbed.... so much more simple.

drduster

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I did with my heater hoses. Since a/c is very important to me, I wanted to retain the heater bypass valve & plumb it all up as clean as possible. My TPI car had a steel tube mounted on the frame rail for the hoses. I re-mounted it as close to the inner fender as possible to give more header clearance. I turned the heater bypass valve upside down, so the hose that would have gone to throttle body on the TPI was now facing toward the inner fender.

I used all the stock TPI hoses except those that went to the water pump: "heater core to steel pipe" (Dayco 88353), "heater core to heater bypass valve" (Dayco 87701) & "steel pipe to heater bypass valve" (Goodyear 4347). Then found molded hoses that were the right sizes & cut them to fit for the "heater bypass valve to water pump" (Dayco 87695) & "steel pipe to water pump" (Gates 28478). I bought some hoses from local part stores & ordered some from Rock Auto. They have good pictures on their web site.

STREETDEMON

i believe ghettocruiser used a splitter from an astro van, it has 4 ports, so you don't need the metal tubing. that's what i will do when i add AC back to my swap.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ah, okay. Yeah, I don't think it would get much air there on a Trans Am.

Here's a pic from the water pump back to the heater valve

I used a few of the hoses with a 90° elbow molded on one end. I'm sure most auto parts stores carry them. I got mine from Autozone though. Sorry I don't have any part numbers. Looking at DrDuster's pics, it looks like there might be enough clearance between the frame rail & header that it might work using the hard line. It's worth a try. If nothing else, you could run the heater hoses on top of the frame rail or maybe manipulate the hard line to where it can work for you.

This was one of my earlier iterations.


Yeah, I'm sure no A/C and a carb would make it so much more simple. That darn A/C box takes up so much room.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Love the build progress man. Thanks for everyone posting part numbers on the hoses. I'm sure it will be a big help as I get into mine this fall after the parts collecting is all done.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Got some more things done this weekend....finished the trans cooler installation, pcv is hooked up, spark plugs/wires installed, heater hoses/heater valve installed.

I used the stock PCV valve but took the heat sink connection off of it. The PCV valve sits above the passenger side valve cover a little further back than the stock location. The rubber t connection for the PCV system was deteriorated so I replaced all of the hoses and the t. The t connection I used can be found on ebay for about $5 and is some kind of coke machine fitting(Stainless Steel Fitting Barb U-Bend 3/8" Coke part number 21136). That setup will do for now but I will eventually install a catch can.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

My original plan was to use the thirdgen heater control valve. I hooked it up partially but found that I couldn't position the original hard pipe that runs along the passenger side without it being in the way of everything. The 90* hose that goes to it would have been right against the engine and wiring harness.

With a little more research I found an old post from ghettocruiser where he used a different heater valve, I pretty much copied his setup. It makes for a cleaner installation. I used straight heater hose to the valve then 2 molded hoses with 90* turns to the water pump.

Heater Valve part# 74781
Heater hose 80405CS
Heater hose 80416CS

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...-valve-ls.html

I also found that the 4th gen brake booster hose fits perfectly if you also change out the fitting on the brake booster(3rd gen fitting is too small).

combatdoc

looks good bro, I felt bad when I did mine also it only had 58,000 on it. I am curious about the heater valves. I ran my lines directly to waterpump and the vac. lines to the back of the intake, mine works great. heat and AC. Am I missing something??? So one of the 2 vac. lines go to the heater bypass valve and the other to the small port on the back of the intake???

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Some people run the coolant lines directly from the water pump to the heater core. Since there is always 100% flow through the heater core the AC won't be as cold..that is what I have read anyway. It gets hot and humid here so I want the AC to work as well as possible.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the throttle cable installed this weekend. I used a Lokar TC-1000LS1 36" cable. To make it work correctly I used a same/similar method as in these old threads that I found while doing research.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ld-swap-2.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...z-ls1-t56.html

It took awhile to get the cable out of the stock firewall connector. I cut the stock cable off about 3-4 inches from the firewall connector. Then I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut the plastic all the way around the cable were it goes into the firewall connector. After doing that I was able to pull the stock cable completely out of the firewall connector. Once that was done I drilled the firewall connector out to the proper size to thread in the new cable. I don't remember what thread it was but I ended up using a 1/4" drill bit(closest I had to the actual size required by the tap) then tapped it the same thread as the Lokar cable. Then I had to completely disassemble the Lokar cable to get it through the stock firewall connector. Checked everything out after installation, works perfect.

I also installed the K&N GTO cold air intake kit(K&N 57-3044). The filter was right up against the driver side inner fender well so I ordered a 45* coupler hose to turn it away from the fender well. I'll post some more pics once I get the new coupler hose.

On to the fuel system now!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I added a 45* turn to the GTO cold air kit for better clearance. I also repositioned the charcoal canister slightly.

90camaro355rs

looks good! nice job!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the fuel system done this weekend. The stock sending unit was in good shape so I used it along with a racetronix pump and hot wire kit. I used Russell Teflon lined hose, to hopefully avoid any fuel smells or leaks. I can make a diagram with part numbers if anyone is interested in duplicating my setup?

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkiti...c=RFPK-005&eq=

I mounted the corvette filter/regulator in the same location as the stock filter. The fuel line and new power feed for the pump were routed along the driver side subframe connector.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I trimmed the lip of metal at the edge of the plastic inner fender liner to give the fuel line a place to slip in behind it. Then cut a hole through the metal at the top to route the hose up to the engine bay.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I used a hole saw to cut the last hole into the engine bay and put a grommet in to protect the hose and wiring. I wrapped the hose with a heat shield, probably overkill but I already had it so why not.

I didn't use the fuse that came with the hot wire kit, the length wasn't right plus I broke the plastic cap on it the first time I took it apart. I mounted a 20A breaker down in the area by the charcoal canister and ran the wire over to the alternator to feed the pump.

My original plan was to route the fuel lines the stock route through the trans tunnel but it was too tight of a fit around the headers. I also tried running it up on top of the trans and couldn't get the hose with the fitting on it through. This was more work but a better route though, the hose should be way far away from any heat.

I'll test the pump and maybe fire the car up tomorrow if all goes well.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Looks great! Very clean swap!

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks I've followed your swap too. I got the car fired up for the first time today...my neighbors probably hate me(open headers lol). The good news is that the engine sounds good, no issues there. It seamed hunt a little at idle but that may be due to the open headers?

The bad news is that the trans appears to be no good. I have to rev it to 3500-4000 just to get it to move. I couldn't even get it up the hill back into the garage without a push. I'm confident the converter is seated in correctly. On the very first start up it threw a P0740(torque converter clutch solenoid circuit) code but I didn't take it out of park since I didn't have the driveshaft in yet. I put the drive shaft in reset the code and then started it again. Fluid was slightly low maybe 1/2-3/4 qt low so I topped it off, then put it into gear. I pulled it out of the driveway then back up into the garage. Had to get a push just to get up the little step into the driveway. No codes were thrown that time. Anyone have any ideas? trans rebuild time? I'm surprised the trans has an issue since the fluid looked so clean.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Update: Got the trans issue fixed. I did some reading on the codes it was throwing. It was throwing several codes and was in limp home mode. I checked the voltage going to the trans and it was good. Then I figured out that I didn't have the connector for the trans in correctly. It will go in about 75% of the way and feel tight when the connector is 180* from where its supposed to be. I turned the connector around and snapped it into place. Took it for a drive and it shifted through every gear. Now its time to install the hood, front gfx and exhaust.

It seems to surge at idle sometimes after a rev and sometimes wants to die..is this normal for a open header LS1 car? I'm guessing its sucking ambient air into the header tube after a rev and messing with the O2 sensors. That condition seemed to get better as I drove the car more but was still there. This is the first open header fuel injected car I've ever dealt with.

jer4251

iTrader: (6)

awesome thread. Once I get my ducks in a row ill be installing my LS1/4L60 into my 90 iroc vert. I used a complete 2001 Trans am for my swap parts. I'll be coming back to this thread when my time comes

STREETDEMON

i'm sure running open headers isn't helping, but i don't think it is 100% the issue. the computer takes a while to learn also. mine always surges and stumbles when i pull the battery cable and it has to start over. after a few cycles it is back to normal.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the Mufflex cat back system hung today. I went with the 3.5in system with a Magnaflow muffler. Almost seemed like it wouldn't fit at first but once you get it on and made a few adjustments it's perfect. I'm dying to drive the car some more but it might be a couple of weeks before I can get a y-pipe made.

I've searched with inconclusive results on how to finish the AC. Do you have to change the pressure switch for the AC when using the 4th gen compressor? I'm assuming you do since the refrigerant is different and probably a different pressure?

drduster

iTrader: (2)

I used the 3-wire switch from my 4th gen donor car. Simply installed in place of the exiting 2-wire 3rd gen switch.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I got the exhaust done last weekend. I bought a flowmaster Y, mandrel bends and some straight pipe and a friend welded it up. I put a V band after the Y so I can remove the whole Y pipe and get it out of the way if needed. Ground clearance is pretty good, very close to what it was with the stock dual cats. I really like the sound of the magnaflow muffler. Its loud enough to be noticable but not obnoxious and no drone while going down the road.

I've driven the car a few times now that I have exhaust on it and I'm impressed with the LS1. It feels like it should run a low 13 or maybe high 12 depending on traction. It really comes alive above 3500rpm, more than I thought it would for a stock engine. The 3200 stall torque converter helps in keeping it in the its power band for sure. Traction is definately a lot more of an issue now than with the L98.

I've got an appointment at a local shop on Tuesday to get it aligned. Then in about 3 weeks I'm going to take it to a local tuner and get it fine tuned.

STREETDEMON

enjoyed the back to back write-ups in camaro performers on you and your dad's cars.

keep up the good work, always have to represent with the white 91 Z's.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks...I haven't even seen the newest magazine yet with my car in it. I kinda wish I would have gotten the car in the magazine after the LS1 swap but either way its cool to make it in.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Here are some pics that I took during the Camaro Performers photo shoot.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

And a few more pics. The black 92 is of course my Dad's. It has a 355 TPI w/ cam and Iron Eagle heads, Shorty Headers, Mufflex 3.5in exhaust, T5, 3.73 gears, koni shocks/struts, founders panhard bar & LCA's, BMR strut tower brace, subframe connectors. Hes finishing up the interior now, we just put new door panels in yesterday. He is still waiting to get the seats back to finish it up.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I've been driving the car quite a bit. I drove it to work and to a car show last weekend. It was a nice day last Wednesday, a couple of friends at work drove their cars too. Almost like a mini-car show at work(see picture).

I also figured out I have a few bugs to work out. The belt started to make noise. Replaced the belt and it was quiet for awhile then it started making noise again after driving a few times. So I replaced the tensioner, idler pulley, and put a gatorback belt on it. The new tensioner seems to hold the belt tighter so I think that was probably the issue.

Also found the heater valve is leaking a little. I replaced the 4 seasons brand heater valve with an AC Delco one. The equivalent AC Delco part# is 15-5533. The 4 Seasons valve seems very cheaply made, I would advise getting the AC Delco one.

Hopefully I'll get the AC working within the next couple of weeks. I replaced the accumulator and o-rings to get it ready.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Nice spread in the magazine sweet was reading it yesterday s b d realized that car looks familiar

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I had the car tuned on a dyno yesterday by Mike Norris. The car has more power now and he got rid of the low idle issue I was having. Ended up with 340HP / 350 ft/lbs torque at the rear wheels. Dyno numbers don't mean a whole lot but I'm happy with the results.

When I had the car up on the dyno lift i could see better and finally found where I have one last exhaust rubbing issue. The 02 sensor on the drivers side header rubs against the trans tunnel slightly. It doesn't make any noise but you can feel the vibration under your feet when driving sometimes. Hopefully I can dent the tunnel without having to take the header off.

Still need to get the AC charged too, I'll try to get that done within the next couple of weeks.

I'm Heading to thirdgenfest today with the car.

92BLKL98

Good deal, man your Z is a work of art. Very good thread, hope mine goes as well. I'm still in the planning stage doing smaller resto-mods till I can get the engine/trans.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

It was good talking with you at ThirdGen Fest the other day. It was too bad that you left early, both cars ended up with a bunch of trophies.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

It was good talking to you too. I probably should have stayed but I had a long drive home, I wasn't sure how much longer it was going to last.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

A couple of quick updates. Got the AC charged a couple of weeks ago and it works great. Its just as cold as the original R12 system. I put a new accumulator on with 8oz of PAG oil added to it and replaced all of the o-rings . I took it to a local shop and they leak checked it and charged it. No issues so far.

I installed a catch can this morning. I noticed the car had some smoke on deceleration on the dyno from intake sucking oil through the pcv valve. My tuner said it was typical with no catch can and no cats.

Took the car to a couple of local cruise-ins last weekend, its been hot and humid...ac is nice!

92BLKL98

Nice, it's the small touches to a good build that completes the job, makes you proud of your efforts. Great build.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the kind words, I've put a lot of effort into the details to make this build reliable and fun to drive.

92BLKL98

I am planning my build with a 4L60E also, how is your shifter cable surviving the header heat? Any issues? I may use mid length Headman's on my build.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Clearance is tight between the shifter cable bracket and exhaust but I have no issues with it. I actually trimmed the bracket a little bit for extra clearance. Shifter cables are pretty tough, not prone to melt or anything like that. I considered the hedman mid length headers too but I got a good deal locally on these hawks headers used. I've heard that kooks is coming out with a stainless midlength header too.

92BLKL98

Great, I was concerned about this. I prefer the Hawks long tubes but was concerned about clearances. Also ground clearance is an issue. I guess if I want long tubes I need to ditch the Spohn TA.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

The spohn torque arm gets in the way of everything unfortunately, thats why I'm using the stock one for now. I have an older design spohn torque arm with slider tube in my attic that I used with a 700-R4 in my other car a long time ago. I thought about combining the old spohn torque arm with the hawks 4l60e crossmember to make something worth while. That may be a project down the road.

The hawks headers do fit well and tuck decent for long tubes. Even with the Sportline springs ground clearance isn't too bad, I've scraped the air dam a couple of times but never the exhaust yet. To me the worst part of the hawks LT headers is the lack of flange on them, they leave it up to you to figure out how to bolt them up to the rest of the exhaust. Not a big deal but adds to the time and expense of getting everything put together especially if you don't have the ability to to weld. I also had to dent the trans tunnel on the drivers side to clear the o2 sensor.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I installed a V Max ported throttle body last weekend. The butt dyno says it made a difference, throttle response is better and it seems to make a little more power. Nothing huge but a noticable difference. I'd say it's definately worth the $150. Hopefully I can make it to the track soon and see how it runs. Traction will be an issue, but I think the mph will be decent.

TGSeavs

This is an absolutely awesome swap, kudos for your attention to detail making it look like that engine was there when it rolled off the assembly line!

Can you elaborate more on what you did for AC? Are you using the 4th gen compressor with everything else from the original car (save for the 3-wire pressure sensor)?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the compliment. I used the LS1 compressor and everything else is 3rdgen. I got a new evap. canister and put 8oz of PAG oil in it as suggested by the shop that charged the AC. I installed the AC lines from hawks with new seals. Then took it to a shop to get charged, no leaks and it works great. The pressure switch is still original, the one on my car is adjustable if you have short cycling problems...not sure if all thirdgens have the same pressure switch though. My switch didn't require any adjustment though, I've heard that some do.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

Update: Finally got a chance to run the car last night at the drag strip. I was hoping for a little better ET but overall I'm happy especially with the mph. Air was good but the track was very slick. They put cones up to make the street cars line up outside the groove making it even more slick since I was on street tires. Lots of fwd cars were dragging water up to the starting line too. I had to roll out half throttle in first and not really get into it until 2nd gear. 275/40/17 Firestone Firehawk tires were struggling to hook.

Right lane on the attached time slip is me. 12.83@109.67 with a 2.07 60'.

Now I need some drag radials and a 12 bolt for some low/mid 12 sec time slips.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the build, looks awesome. Your attention to detail is perfect. It's tedious work and why my build is taking so long.

I was looking to get this same exact exhaust you have, but I am nervous of clearance, especially with my S60 rearend. How much clearance do you have to the axle?

ch@0s

Beautiful car!! What wheels are those?

jazzdadss

Beautiful build!! I am baffled a little at the thought of you and others just taking the 4th gen A/C switch and screwing it on to the liquid line?? my 89 liquid line and 98 liquid line had different threads. I had a local company splice my A/C line so I could have the correct threads.