IHI

iTrader: (1)

judging from dial, must have been taken Sat. buddy I race with forwarded it....looks like the tubes are going in the new slicks Wed., just killing the sidewall!!

AlkyIROC

Nice launch. Nice and straight. Car isn't squatting. I'm not sure about the tubes though. I have tubes in my tires just because I got tired of filling them back up every couple of weeks. I don't see a lot of sidewall wrinkle in that picture.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

looks like a nice clean launch. let me know how much ET the tubes slow you down. The car looks like it launches really nice and doesn't squat in the rear. that new anti-roll bar really helped in the even launch it looks like.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I posted on the "other site" to get as many opinions as possible. I've run 11psi the past 2 seasons and ever since I installed that wofle craft anti roll bar buddies have been telling me the sidewalls are getting crushed. This pic is'nt as good as one would be like a side shot, but still alot more wrinkle/distortion than I'm used to seeing when I watch alot of the bigger fellas....but they all run alot bigger tire also so it's hard to compare small tire to big tire in that regard.

Last year when I ran the M/T's I just bought tubes right off the back since I did'nt want to dela with sidewall bleeding air and wanted a stiffer sidewall. I have pictures from that "era" and sidwalls barely buckled and they worked fine....not as well as my Hoosiers IMO, but I've had great sucess with these tires and have run them so long I know what to expect from them...the "cant teach an old dawg new tricks" I guess mentality. I did love the "set-it and forget" air pressure since sun light had less effect of psi between rounds, just wondering with all the weight in the back of the car already and fact there is no more squat the extra layer of rubber would help with traction and possibly tire life....this set in the picture is exactly 1 month old tomorrow and they're gone already-tread wise and sidewalls shot, (for our level of competition anyways)

Not the best picture, but when zoomed in the footprint kind of looks delfected somewhat and of cousre the amount of wrap up is more than i'm used to seeing when comparing cars to cars on the hit.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

The roll bar is working great, doing it's job perfectly, but after some issues (I can no longer chip the tbrake past 3600 or it literally blows the tires off-before with air bags I could go off the convertor at 5K no problems and stick into the high 1.4" 60's) not being able to chip up when getting stuck in certain lanes due to sensor/persepction differences makes me a sitting duck on the tree so I need to be able to stick at 3600rpm....not a hit and miss deal.

I spke with Wolfe Crraft about that and after they learned I had the short torque arm they said flat out that is the problem. The shorter torque arm already puts alot of hit and anti squat into the tires, but adding the anti roll bar it compounds that problem and it's showed it's ugly face more than once this year....very frustrating!!!

So I'll be removing this short arm this winter and going back to a long arm to help put more hit back in the chasis, then hopefully it'll eliminate my higher leave rpm problems.

87_TA

Nice Pic,
Opps, almost bought the wolfe bar myself!!

I actually think I am going back to the long arm anyway....

When hooking that TQ arm is great and makes awsome 60 ft. times, but I think just plants to hard and causes to mush seperation..
Just got my new Hoosiers in - stiff side wall 28x10.s , run them once with 0 track prep and pulled (3) 1.51's and a 1.50 - still spinning but with no prep that was actually really good..
And actually better than the previus week with M/Ts on a prepped track. so I think they will do the trick.
And they also stayed consistant even though spinning.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Your going to love the Hoosiers, alot of guys thathave switched from M/T have been performing alot better. The Hoosiers might only be showing a tad more consistency than certain M/T tires, but that little bit is what's needed to win....after running this set, I dont think you'll be going back either

slow86305

IHI are you still running the jegster torque arm. You are saying that the short arm plants the tires to hard?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I'm still running the Jegster short torque arm WITH the new Wolfe Craft anti roll bar.

BEFORE with just the jegster torque arm, traction was better than ever and since last season I used air bags to help cut down on body roll, those 2 items together worked great. The short arm planted the tires and the air bags allows just enough body roll to take away some of the hit from the tires so I could hook no matter what rpm I left at on the tree from 3000-5000. But...with bracket racing hundredth and thousands of a secong count so I needed a better solution to tighten up my 60's, hence the anti roll bar.

After anti roll bar (I removed check valve from air bags-did'nt want to take out bags for a plan b should anti roll bar not work) but anti roll bar eliminated ALL body roll which is a great thing, only problem the tires now take the full blunt of the hit instead of chasis absorbing some with the body roll.

I love the short arm, it works great, but when combines with this drag racing anti roll bar, it's just too much for my combination. taller tires and taller gears may help, adjustible shocks would help, etc....but I want some more air under the tires for the fun factor

RWB____s

IHI

I got to tell you IMHO you have got the nicest and most rounded 3rd gen drag car on this board bar NONE! It runs like it should, looks great!, and the owner always tries to help others! You have my upmost respect on this board and wish you great racing and good times at the tracks. I just wish I could personnally see this car in action

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the kind words, I just wish I had a real race car LOL!! Trying to hang with the big dogs is very tough with a street stripe machine, obviously judging from the cars history it can do it, driver just needs head out of butt the other 50% of the time. Had a few guys come up after car won a few races that told me the stock in 3rd gens has just went up LOL! I'm very competative and unlike MANY at the race track, I dont mind sharing info. I figure the only way I'm gonna get better is to have competition at or better than me, so if I can help out one guy and it makes a difference in his program, should we happen to pair up someday, I want a race that neither of us know who wins until the light comes on.

When I'm done wasting money trying to fight the good fight, I'll wise up and step into a rail, but have my heart set on a altered since they have some personality so we'll see. Wonder if they have a 3rd gen fiberglass body that can be stretched over a rail chasis so I can still post here

JERRYWHO

Do you still have Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks on the car and if so how old are the shocks, if you go to a rear shock with more or maybe the right amount of rebound in it, it will soften the hit and you will get more air under the front tires.

Jerry

RWB____s

You are welcome!

I would love to be able to have a Old School Big Block anglia, or a Brogie altered. Use to love to watch the short wheel base anglia's run at Orange County International Raceway.
(Now closed up for many years. ) Still wishing for the good old days.

Motor City Mike

Lookin' good, IHI. While it is somewhat hard to judge what a car needs chassis-wise by merely looking at a picture (video footage is what's really needed), it looks to me like you're getting a bit too much body/tire seperation. I too would suggest going back to a long(er) torque arm. This will also help lift the front end a little more and pitch/rotate the car for better weight transfer.

I too am a strong proponent of Hoosier tires.

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

I've been thinking about changing to Hoosiers. I've only ran M/T's since I put my car together. Do they seem to hook better than the M/T's? I bracket race sometimes when there isnt a Heads up race that weekend, and It's hard to compete with a little tire car and be consistant. I have ET Drag 28.0x10.5W's right now and they do ok but I could always use more.

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

Looks great IHI!

slow86305

thanks IHI

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I've only run 2 sets of M/T full slicks since I've been racing, I did like the fact they took a very very small burnout to work great, literally if I saw smoke it was too much. It took awhile to figure it out, but I'd roll in, blip the throttle to get the entire tire tread area damp, put it in second gear to start the burnout (manual valvebody) then shift to 3rd as soon as tach hit 5500rpm and at the pull of 3rd gear would release line lock and roll out.

These QTP's have the harder C07 compound and with MY combination I have to light them up John Force style for consistant traction, a light burnout with the QTP's, like the full slick M/T liked, I'd move around in the 60' which is not good bracket racing.

Personally I thought the M/T were'nt as reliable/predictable on the hit as the Hoosiers were. It might be because I've run hoosiers for so long I know exactly what the tire will do, where as the M/T my R/T seemed to jump around more.....call it goofy, call it driver error, whatever but as soon as I switched back to Hoosiers, the R/T got tighter again. The 60's with the M/T were right on every pass so the tire itself worked great, but wether it was me or weather it was the tire, my reaction times covered a broader are than the Hoosiers. Hoosiers tires I'm "generally" repeating R/T within .003-.005 throughout the day, when running the M/T they'd be within .005-.01

Many will laugh at that, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it

AlkyIROC

I've run Hoosier, Good Year and MT. I currently have MT because they have them in stock locally. I loved the Hoosiers but found them a little too soft. I wore out a set in one season. I can normally get a set of MT to last 2 seasons.

AlkyIROC

I just found a flyer for 2005 Las Vegas Bracket Nationals on Thanksgiving weekend.

4 days of racing and each day's payouts are:
SuperPro has $5000 to win.
Pro has $1000 to win.
Sportsman has $250 to win.

Entry fees are
SuperPro Advanced entry $250, Late entry $350, Single day $250
Pro $150, $250, $150
Sportsman $100, $150, $100

So for a weekend pass of $250 you have a chance to win $5000 four times. Can't say I like the sportsman entry/payout ratio compared to the others.

On the Saturday night, they're having an 1/8 mile gambler race (King of the hill). $1000 to enter. Winner takes all. Last year the winner took home $27,000

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Lemme guess, winner was in a rail???

I still have the Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks and they were installedl ast season. Obviously they dont see thousands and thousands of street miles like a dialy driver, but enough to give them a better work out than a stripe only car, so far car still reacts very good and is a very predicatable unit for bracket racing.

Eventually, maybe this winter in fact, I will upgrade to the QA1 Stocker Star shocks. I dont think at this time rebound is a problem, I have video from my old azzed 8mm we took this weekend to watch car and on the hit the car's front end pops up off the ground, rear end only squats becasue tire sidewall colapses, then car goes forward. There did'nt appear to be any unloading of the tires as the front end came down, but as much as these things are wrapping up, I can only assume somewhere tire wrap might be a small issue I'm fighting as well.

Just a guess on my part after talking with Wolfe Craft and doing some research, I think the combination of the short tq arm and new anti roll bar is that they both have different jobs to do, but affect each other greatly, so when one says I want to do this the other says, no I can do it better and while they work together I think they fight each other also and since alot of the power that used to go into the chasis no longer does so, the tires are the last in line to take the abuse and shocks themselves seem to get little to no work out after watching video. I'm sure they are doing something, but not allowed to work as intended right now.

Next spring will tell the tale, I have no plans on touching anything again this winter aside from normal maintenance, so everything will be the same drivetrain wise, but with new longer tq arm....should be interesting.

cp87GTA

IHI, I was fighting the same thing. I think Hoosier tires are very critical when it comes to air pressure. I run a 29 1200 on a 12" wheel with 11 3/4 or 12 lbs. of air. If I go below 11 1/4 they just wad up. I ran the same tire on a 10" wheel last season, down as far as 9 lbs with no wad. Also running tubes this year, as I couldn't keep them from leaking after studding. We used to do a hard burn out every time to get some bite. I did a lot of complaining to our Hoosier dealer [ 2 miles from my house] . He kept saying not to do much of a burn out. We cut our burn out down a lot and have much better 60 ft times. Our track doesn't spray much, and it sure makes a big differance when they do. I kept adding 1/4 lb air at a time till my tires quite wadding up and my 60 ftrs did get better. I sat and watched some of the guys I run against after my tranny broke a couple of weeks ago. Some of them run a second and a half quicker. Most don't leave as hard as I do, but most of them are also running glides. Why do you want more air? Looks like you got as much weight as you can get on the rear tires

IHI

iTrader: (1)

There's somthing about watching the super stocker 3rd gens run that leave like a fat girl that just got her **** pinched that turns me on LOL. I dont want to leave all crazy for competition since that's not the best way to win, but for fun and cool pictures, I want that pig with her nose in the air!!

I tried higher psi in the slicks and it just blew them off, think since the sidewall is wadding up it's helping mask the real problem. I like the way 10.90streetcar leaves, tires not wadding and nose up.

I'd love to go to glide, but right now just too darn heavy and would slow down too much for my taste. I have a game plan for an experimental bracket car, but still hashing out the details. All I know is my guidlines are 12.50 for E.T. and 140+ trap speed. Woould make for the best tire conservation car and serious head game vehicle you ever paired with.....your dialed in at 10.00 I'm at 12.50, you blow past me by the 1/8mi marker then wonder wtf was that streak passing by me at the stripe.

Thinking 14:1 BBC, 280/300@.050 cam, stock 12" convertor, 3.23 gar and 30 tx9 tire in a 2800lb car. LOL I aint worked out the details on DDyno and DDdrag yet, but it's a good winter time tinkering tool

stage20

iTrader: (3)

ive never run a tube.
maybe a still(EDIT: stiff) sidewall version would do better.
ive seen guys loose a few thousanths on the tree, and a few hundreths in the short time.

car looking good.

buddy of mine just went 1.389 60ft on a set of 27x11.5 QTP'S.
with the mickey 26x10 slick, best he ever got was a 1.42 in cool weather. he hit the 30 in the heat!
same set up.

Trevor86TA

That's an interesting concept. I've never seen anything that extreme.

stage20

iTrader: (3)

throttle stop, without the throttle stop?