QTP are a DOT tire. 28 x 11.5 will fit with no problems depending on your backspacing. They have a 10" tread and are a true 28" tall tire. The section width is only 11.2" I love the disclaimer on the Hoosier web site when you go to the QTP page. Big bold print. "Not intended for highway use" so even Hoosier says even though they have a DOT rating, they're only designed for the track.

That's been my tire of choice for years...and I've gone through alot of them. You'll have to do the typical front wheel well beating but other than that they fit fine, so great tire choice if I do say so myself start with 14psi and go down from there. mine are mounted on 10" rims for reference

I`v got 10" center lines so I should be ok on the rim size... they do seem to look like the stickiest tire I could find with the DOT on em. I was going to go with the M/T`s but I changed my mind when I got to thinking about em.

WOW... I think I might have had room for 30`s now....lol... Oh well they look good, cant wait to try em out. I`ll try and post a pic tomorrow.

What should I do to stiffen up the rear springs? They are weak being they are some 23 years old and all. One thing always leads to another....lmao

Some guys run an inflatable air bag or air bags in the rear springs to load it up.

I think the springs are the least of your worries, I'm still running the stockers myself. For minimal investment you need new rear shocks-preferably 50/50 and at the very least install air bags, I found 30 psi in the pass side and 5psi in the driver side to work good. But the best investment is a drag racing inspired rear anti roll bar.

Just an up date

I don't have the time ticket here at the shop but it ran 12.59 @ 107

When I get to my other tuck I`ll post the time slip.

Now to get some better headers and set the timing, adj the valves and see what the new headers change. I know those little shot headers have to be killing me. then I`ll take off the fan and the P/S and see where that goes.


One step at a time and I`ll get it going. I hope

AWESOME!!!! glad to here your finally getting it to work well for ya!

Ok
New numbers with the same set up.


I found out I have to shift out of 1st at 7500 and 2nd at 8000 to get better times. Kinda hard on things but it seems to like the big RRRRRR`s

BTW... it does have 308 gears or it did till third round anyway

1.7118 ....... 60ft
5.0694........ 330ft
7.8200........ 1/8
90.04......... 1/8 mph
10.1644...... 1000ft
104.51....... 1000ft mph
12.1446..... 1/4
114.01...... 1/4 mph





Where can I buy brackets for a 9" swap out. I now need to change rearends

Wow! You're taking it over 7500 and only getting a low 12? How accurate is your tach?

When I had a 383 stroker, 26" tall tires and 3.27 gears, I was spinning the engine to 7000 and running very high 11's.

I`v always taken most of my dirt track motors to the upper 7000`s but after running one of them on the track and seeing the results I`m think I should have pushed em a little harder. I pushed it to where it floated the springs then shifted and got my best time. Not sure on this tach just yet but it`s close. I`m useing my GTECH Tach right now to set up the car and it seem`s to be hlpeing a bunch!
Anyone know how wide the rearend is???? I have a 61", 9" I`d like to replace that broken POS with.
I have a 514 gear and a 411, What would work best with my 28" QT`s

the rearend's under our cars are like 54" backing plate to backing plate

Damn thats short, Oh you siad back plate to plate. This rear end is 56 plate to plate with 61" overall axle to alxe

that's about like what 4th gens are like...just run a wheel with more backspacing.

I just got an e mail from a guy that say`s (complet 9" bolt in housing with axles for 950.00), we`ll wait and see?????

New Best

If they ever get the pictures up I should have a good pic with the front tires up about a foot

it`s not the best shot but it`s the only one that turned out..lol
Took long enough to get those front tires off the ground but they are off for once...lmao

i'm lovin' it bro! i'm working to get there myself.

Ok I`m back at it.

I`m thinking of replacing my 4.11`s with 5.14`s whata think?
Time slip on post up above

Only if the engine rpm and tire height will allow it. I'm currently running 4.56 gears. I shift at 6800 and go through the traps at 7200. I'd like to upgrade to 4.86 gears. If I went to 5.13's, I'd be up around 8000 rpm. My cam floats the valves at 7800.

just to let you see how other cars perform. i run 6.98 @99 in the 1/8th. with a 1.51 60ft. 383 with 350 turbo. stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears. i stay in 2nd gear and turn 7300 through the traps with a 26'' tire. all suspension is stock.

8000 should be ok but the motor wont be pulling that hard. I thinking that the ET might go up as I might be getting there faster with the lower gear? I guess I`ll just have to try it or I will always be woundering.

I wouldnt go 5.14 for 1/4 mile. I wouldnt go over 4.56 with those size tires.

but theres not much difference between 4.11 and 4.56

4.11s and a 28" tire had me at 5700 rpm crossing the trap at 111 IIRC in one of my buddies vehicles. If you plan on increasing MPH then 4.56 might be all you want. A gear calculator online might help you pick one, assuming there isn't much converter slippage on the big end. What is your trap rpm now and how high do you really want it to be? Just because a motor can spin to 8k doesn't mean it makes peak HP/TQ at that rpm.

I run a 5.14 now with 28" tires and turn 7100 crossing the line in the 1/8th. Well You do have a Turbo 350 to my glide. You might could get away with a 4.88 rear gear and put you at your peak in the 1/4. Just try it and see.

It will all break down to the nitty gritty. Our S10 is 2900lbs race ready with me, 383, glide, 4.33 gears, 31" rear tires and traps 59-6000rpm. It really needs a 5.13 gear to be optimal OR the installation of a 3 speed with the current 4.33 gears to get trap rpm around 7000rpm.

My car with the 388 trapped 6600 with the TH400/4.11's and 28" tires and I expect the new 427sbc to push in excess of 7000rpm so I'm stepping to a taller tire after I make an inital pass to confirm my thoughts.

Unless the combination is a really small cubic inch motor, great flowing heads, and monster cam I can see no benefit of spinning it to the moon unless your trying to make up for lack of combination elsewhere...kind of an old school train of thought process with a gazillion rpm across the traps, double hump heads, and running molasses oil. The new school is matching the entire combination, spin it less and go as fast/faster with less wear and tear on components so the stuff last for years with no required tear down. Not to mention, good luck getting it to hook consistantly in the heat of the summer with big gears and small tires since anybody that races knows how the sun treats the starting line....something is seriously a miss IMO with this combo to have this be a serious question...but it's sound cool up until it starts floating valves or something breaks

Let us know how ya come out. and if your 1/8th mile racing, which I have to assume since your from the south, it's a whole nother ball game so your trying to be completely out of motor by 1/2 track (for us northerner's so, then it might be a suiting fit for your needs, but I still think for 1/4mile your going to be so far gone rpm wise, your going to slow down.

your sneakin up on our LT1 bolton car.... lol 11.8@113
real close

you need to get those tires back on the ground. thats killing your momentum. i've pulled mine but it only slows me down. it looks cool and all but when the front lands it unloads the rear tires. with a 1.65 60ft. i can't see it pulling them that high. my best 60 is 1.475 and i don't pull mine at all.

7.0 camaro....the back of that car is squatting a TON. Is it launching on the bumpstops? You need to stiffen up that rear suspension and I bet it would 60' better as well. Remember all that energy wasted to compress the springs is energy that could be used to plant the tires harder instead.

7.0 Camaro I think the reason you cant pull em that high is your rear bumper is almost on the ground. Something needs to be changed in the rear of that car. Mine will pull em all day long and if I do a low rpm stall I can pull em twice as high as I do stalling at 3500.

DIGGLER whats the deal on your LT1 bolton car?

I only 1/8th mile race. The guy who is asking for the info is from Kansas and he runs the 1/4 mostly I assume. I have to run a 5.14 gear and turn my car to make it react on the .400 pro tree like I need it to. Not many 3200# door cars like mine can stage shallow like a bracket racer and still cut a .40x r/t. My car actually hooks better now with a 5.14 than with the 4.56 I had. Even in Hot 90 degree races like we have here in middle Ga.

yea, 7.0 your car has zero weight on the rear tires squatting like that.
jet hydro- its a friend's camaro. its got a bone stock LT1 aside from 1.6 rockers, and the usual boltons like headers, elec. waterpump, cold air induction, clutch, 12 bolt, and all the suspension goodies. weighs around 3150 with driver.
still a 6 speed trans, and its best 60' was a 1.53. it actually went even faster on an 1/8 track later on, after setting the 11.8x bolton record.

like i said i have stock suspension all the way around. with the exception of 1'' spring spacers in the rear wich has stffened the rear. i haven't touched the rear because this winter it will be backhalved. my fronts have come up alot. but i found out i'm quicker when i use less stall and leave smoother. like the in the pic. i've got maybe 500 hp and cutting a 1.47 60ft and he's got 600 hp cutting a 1.65 60ft. hmmm. i think i'm doing something right.

7.0 Camaro what do you run in the 1/4? Yea your 60`s are pretty good

that pic is decieving. the rear barely moves. i had 28x12.50's on it then. here's another pick. i'm a long way from dragging the bumper.

i don't know what it runs in the 1/4. we have 6 1/8th mile tracks around but no 1/4's. probably a 10.50-10.70 at 125.

I'm not gonna kit pick, and since your going to back half it, it really makes no difference...but you lose momentum doing wheelies, you also lose momentum with all that weight transfer...same thing, instead of going forward your pivoting backwards....either way, same difference you not optimizing and it's a fine line to walk for max forward and max traction.

i know what you guy's mean. i'm just tryin to help you understand that what you see in the picture is what the car looks like all the way down track. the front end never comes down and the rear never comes up. here's a little vid.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/9...cf00ee6cc9.htm

OK I`m back at it. I`m changing motors but my new motor has Dart angle plug heads. What header do I need to order. I really dont want to buy $700.00 headers unless I stick my blown 454 in.

Screw-it I`m sick of going 12.0`s

I`m liking the idea of blown alky
355cid 13.5.1 with a 6.71 over driven at 12% running alky
Think I must have blown a fuse or something

gotta love a supercharger. what do you think it'll run now? and what rear gear are you running?

Dont know what it`s gonna run??????
I`m running a 456 gear, now with the blown alky deal I wish I had my 411`s back

or 3.73...

I`m working on my new car and I want a hood with a pro stock look.
Anyone know where I can get one?
I dont like this hood as it dosen`t let any freash air in the carb.


Is it me or is this server slow?????? God I`m done typing before it even shows up and it takes for ever for a page to show up.

First time I have seen pictures of this car other than your Signature.
Looks awsome! What does it weigh?

a lot! lol between 3700-3800 going down the old 1320 iirc....