91greenbird

iTrader: (4)

R/T .005
60' 2.097
330 5.829
1/8 8.911
MPH 79.45
1000 11.601
1/4 13.876
MPH 99.11

what can i do to go a little faster while keeping stock heads and cam?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Set the timing for total mechanical rather than initial mechanical.

What gears are you running? Tires? What RPM to you go across the finish line?

Port the heads, put aftermarket springs & retainers on the valves.

What's magical about the stock cam?

Nice RT, by the way.

91greenbird

iTrader: (4)

my summit hei replacement dizzy advance doesnt come in fast enough to set a good timing advance like when i set the total timing at 3500rpms to 34 it was like 20 intial and it would ping and run horrible so i just played with the intial until it had the highest mph it seemed to like 10 intial best. My tires are 245/50/r16 kuhmo 711's @ 25psi i go across the traps at 4100rpms in 3rd gear on my 700r4 theres nothing magical about the stock cam just wanted to see how far i can get with stock heads and cam its a l98 engine btw. It spins alittle but the horrible 60 foot is due to when at wot laucnhing it falls on its face but then it rockets back up and runs fine. The carb is a 4150 vacuum secondary electric choke 650 holley carb

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

your time isnt too bad...almost like my run when i spun to a 2.0x 60 foot and ran 13.86 at 98.xx.

whats your trans shift at? i wouldnt shift much higher than 5200 rpms. I would think my HSR is MORE than enough to get the most out of stock heads and cam, and my power peaked at 5050, staying fairly flat till about 5200.

you need more stall for one thing. but 2025 should get you lots better than that 2.0. that alone will shave a tenth or two off the 1/4 mile time. i have 2800 on mine and it goes low low 1.8 60s with some spin as well. should go 1.7x's on a full stall and traction.

and you need stickier tires. drag radials are necessary when you get above stock stalls. Could use 3.73 gears too. crossing at 4100 with that speed sounds like you have 3.08's or 3.23's or something like that. 3.42s or 3.73's will net you another tenth or two and get you to your optimal power band going across the line.

And get the tune figured out right. get rid of that stumble and keep timing around 8-10 base initial and it should run great. i think 13.4's are in there with stall, gears, tuning, and coold weather. i'm at 13.5's with a HSR on my stock L98.

stock cam and heads could definately go low 13's on a mostly stock full weight car.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

or you could add some nitrous, i had my lb9 into the 13.6's on a 150 shot, ported plenum, runners, and base. unbolted sway bar, lakewood $89 lca's and some 26" MT slicks. You could also unbolt the front sway bar to get better weight transfer and drop you're 60's

91greenbird

iTrader: (4)

i have 3.27's, the 2025 is a s10 stall and only stalls to about 1800 before spin. The timing is at 10 intial and that was what i got my highest mph out of it. I also think the shitty 60 foot is due to the bog off the line. The trans will shift itself at 5500 at wot in drive. Thanks for the good advice keep it coming

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Really, it sounds like you should be running faster than you are. My 87 Formula 350 (the wimpiest of the L98 cars) ran a 13.5@100 with a 1.8 60’ time with a basically stock car with a cold air intake and cat back. That was even with stock 16y/o (at the time) goodyear ZR’s on it that were rock hard and slippery.

I would expect that just tuning and improving your driving should get your runs into the 13.0 range at about 103 with a high 1.7/low 1.8 60’ time, mostly because you souldn’t have lost that much below 3000rpm (contrary to popular belief, TPI doesn’t add torque below there, it’s lowest harmonic is around 3500rpm), and what you have lost should have been covered by the higher stall converter and the manifold that breathes above 4500rpm should give you a significant improvement in the top end. A little more stall or gear (2600-3200rpm/3.73’s) should put that car solidly in the 12’s.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

wow thats fast...what did the car weigh??

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

3710 (with me in it, I’m about 300) at the truck scales the next morning, so maybe a few lbs heavier the night before with more gas in it.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

jeez thats one freak of a car

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Sure, somehow every car that I’ve ever owned has been a freak, and somehow whenever I get a chance to drive someone else’s car it usually goes ½ second or more faster than it ever has even though I weigh 100-150# more then most. I even have an example where I took someone down the track with them in the passenger seat to show them how the lights work, where the turnarounds are… and ran just a second faster with the 2 of us in the car than what they were able to do by themselves.

You all believe that you’re the best drivers in the world, but if you’re running 2.x 60’ times, even on the crappiest tires with shitty track prep you’ve already lost time over what you could have run if you could modulate the throttle and leave harder. Even on crappy hard tires a 13second car usually has the power to run at least 1.8’s, and going from the 2.097 that he ran to a 1.8 would put the car down around 13.2-13.3. With the higher then stock stall and decent tires that car should be able to slip into the 1.7’s and help ET a little more…

Looking at the rest of the time slip there is a bit of a suggestion of either a shift point problem or a tuning issue up top, giving some more room for improvement.

I’d suggest that if someone really wants to get some impression of what you can get out of a car, hit a TnT a few times in a row and log each run, what you did, what effect it had… and you’ll be surprised now fast you can lower your times without throwing parts at your car. Get a friend with a video camera involved that does a good job at staying zoomed in and focused on how the car is acting and you’ll learn even more

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yes thats all good but an 87 L98 going 13.5 at 100mph with a race weight of over 3700lbs with just air intake and catback is just freakish...especially on street tires. i dont care how or what you say, that is abnormally fast

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

My ’97 WS6 (LT1/6speed), with stock GSC’s, nothing done but 4.11 gears and the rev limiter moved up to 6400rpm has run 13.003@107mph with a 1.7 60’ time. That’s even through the stock exhaust and intake and at a race weight between 3900-4100# (fully loaded, full of stuff with a near full tank of gas, it’s easier to drive/launch with the extra weight). My 305 Crossfire car (very similar to a TBI car) used to run high 13’s with a stock long block (intake and exhaust work), stock drivetrain/open rear/stock gears on 27” tall BFG Radial TA’s.

Would you consider any of these “normal” times?

These cars reacted quite well to more extensive mods also, but at that point it becomes more difficult to compare them to others.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

those are also very fast from the "norm" most ppl post up with. 13.0 at 107 is LS1 stock range, not LT1. i've seen a TON of LS1 cars run. every one around here has them, and most are doing 106-108 mph near stock. Lid, catback, no cats was doing 333whp/348wtq and ran high 12's at 109-110. i've seen the car dyno in person and watched it run those times in person.

NEVER seen a LT1 trap over 106 without full bolt ons or a cam

you sir must be doing something very very right and should be the test driver for GM vehicles. i think you'd take a Z06 faster than Ranger has

Rick King

hello,
"I also think the shitty 60 foot is due to the bog off the line."

usually the bog is from the vacume secondaries commong on to soon. Try the next heavy spring in your carb. The bog as you know will cost you.

latern ad

GB

rk

Rick Routzahn

iTrader: (1)

I have a set of brand new gold Crane Cams roller-rocker arms 1.5 ratio for sale....

antman89iroc

My car (see below) with auto and stock stall and all season tires had a best 1/8th et of 8.85 with 1.9x 60 foot. Light brake and about 1200 rpm then nail it on the last yellow. BTW I agree on working with your secondary springs on that carb.

antman89iroc

Ok well my sig didn't show up. L98, flat top pistons, mild ported heads, CC 212/218 cam, stock TPI, TES, 3.27 12' initial. Also I give a lot of the credit to sub frame connectors, relocated and boxed LCA's. The car leaves with no tire spin. Unless you get a little excited like my wife did and run a tire smokin 10.5!!!