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im trying to run a 4 gen front brake set up onto my third gen but the hubs are molded into the brake rotor. i have been looking for a few days and i can not find a replacement hub to change out the rotor hub assembly to a slip on rotor hub. any help would be appreciated thanks.
Yup, to the best of my knowledge, no such hubs are available "off the shelf". Somebody has to fab them up from what DOES exist. Which AFAIK is what BBU does (and others as well): they turn stock rotors down, to cut the rotor part off of the hub part. Although I'll let them speak to that themselves if I'm wrong.
Yes, Big Brake Upgrade modifies the factory rotors and spindles. But there are videos on youtube of people doing their own modifications.
Here's a picture of mine from BBU 5 years ago. The hub is a factory rotor with the "rotor" portion cut-off leaving the hub, as Sofa and QT mentioned, then the rotor for the upgrade slips on over that hub. The spindles are also factory, but with the stock caliper bracket chopped off, and a new bracket for the upgraded caliper is bolted onto the modified spindle. The brackets attached to mine are for C6 brakes. The 4thgen brakes require a different bracket, but it's the same principle.
If you're not in a rush and can wait a few months, BBU is currently working on the manufacture of an all-new spindle design that will bring 3rdgen front brake upgrades into the 21st century. It isn't ready yet, but it sounds like it's progressing nicely. Verse in 3D modeling ? - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
Hey all, I've been looking everywhere on here and I can't seem to find an answer. I'm curious if running ls1 brakes or the like is gonna effect my bearings and suspension having 2" adapters running 4th Gen wheels. I'm worried it will cause extra stress on stuff because of the extra push out. Would it be better to just get the 1le upgrade from hawks? I could bolt the adapter directly to the hub that way and should be better but I'm curious if you guys have ran the ls1 brakes with those adapters and what y'all think, thanks!
You shouldn't need 2" spacers for that. I think 1½" would be about right. At least on my car, I needed 1¾" spacers on the front to run C6 wheels, and the additional thickness that the LS1 brakes give, about ¼", would shave that to 1½".
Apart from all that, the combo of spacers and those wheels, doesn't add stress to the bearings. The point of application of force stays the same. The wheel isn't "pushed out"; the relationship o the tire to the bearing, stays exactly the same. Kinda like, if that spacer was welded to the inside off your wheel, you'd have the exact same geometry and construction, as your 3rd gen wheel on stock brakes. So no, there's no problem there.
Last edited by sofakingdom; May 25, 2024 at 03:54 PM.
Reason: Misspelling hit the obscenity filter
Okay Awesome info thank you! I think I probably do need the 2 inch only because Im gonna be running ZR1 17" wheels with 56mm offset and with my 17 inch c5 z06 wheels I have now they are already super tight by the tie rods and strut.
If I did decide to get the hubs and do the ls1 upgrade should I get the longer wheel studs on them or no?
If you use the type of spacers that bolt on with the regular lug nuts and then have their own studs (I think they usually call those "adapters" rather than spacers), no. OTOH if you use spacers that the lug has to go through, then yes, you will absolutely need longer lugs. No clue what the target lug length would be butt I'm guessing probably something on the order of 3 - 3½" (let's say, 75 - 90mm), give or take.
Slip on spacers that are more that a few mm usually require longer studs. The companies that make the spacers usually recommend at least 7 full rotations of the lugs, otherwise you need longer studs. The bolt on adaptors may require you to cut your studs depending on how long they are. The stock studs may stick out a little and interfere with the wheel bolting to the adaptor.
I agree that any spacer width MORE than a few mm requires longer studs, and that typically you want 7 full rotations on the lug nut. Any less is not enough contact. HOWEVER......this is typically discussed in the context of needing very small spacers. Perfect example is on 6th gens, word on the street is that you can run a 5mm spacer with stock studs, but a 10mm would require longerstuds. For almost 2" worth of spacer, I don't know that you can get studs that long, and if you could, I'd think that length would just be WAY to much for the stud. That's gonna require a bolt spacer/adapter. 5 lugnuts hold the adapter to the hub, 5 more lugnuts hold the wheel to the adapter.
Thank you for all the info guys I really appreciate it!
I have another question and I know this might be slightly off topic to the thread but I can't seem to find answers anywhere else, with the adapters and 4th Gen wheels what lug nut torque should I be running all the way around on that setup? I know 4th gens are 100 but for stock it's 80-90 from what people say here and from what I understand the adapter and wheel need to have the same torque. So I just want to make sure I'm doing everything safely and correctly!
Thank you for all the info guys I really appreciate it!
I have another question and I know this might be slightly off topic to the thread but I can't seem to find answers anywhere else, with the adapters and 4th Gen wheels what lug nut torque should I be running all the way around on that setup? I know 4th gens are 100 but for stock it's 80-90 from what people say here and from what I understand the adapter and wheel need to have the same torque. So I just want to make sure I'm doing everything safely and correctly!
I torque my adapters and wheels to 90 up front. 90 or 100 is fine.