QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

PROJECT INDEX (continued)

Suspension and Chassis

Ground Control weight jacks, Post #465
Complete list of Moog springs for 3rd gen Firebird, Post #1583 - 1584
Detroit Speed steering brace & front sway bar, Post #1444
Alston inner subframe connectors, Post #789
6 point roll cage with full interior, Post #782

The saga of torque arms:
Hawks Sinister mid-length torque arm, Post #268 ; Post #523
Custom torque arm to replace Hawks Sinister, Post #789
Eliminating clunk noises from shackle torque arm, Post #1651
Herbs Adams VSE decoupled torque arm, *coming soon!*

The saga of a strut tower brace with Firebird hood:
Heidts TPI brace, Post #620
Heidts TBI brace, Post #661
BMR brace, Post #678
H.P. Motorsport brace, Post #1042

The saga of the height-adjustable panhard:
Comparison of Heidts, UMI, Founders kits, Link to Thread
The final rendition, Post #1607

LS Swap #2 - The LS7

The LS7 build begins & tear down, Post #955

LS wet sump oil pan dimensions, Post #936
Holley 302-1 stroker oil pan with stock k-member, Post #1109
Windage tray, crank scraper, and drilling for dipstick, Post #964
LS2 vs. LS7 cam sprockets, Post #959
Melling oil pump install, Post #959 ; Post #1701
Sac City Corvette oil barbell, Post #1064
Crank spacer, ATI damper, and belts, Post #1065

Mamo ported MSD intake, Post #1011
O-rings for MAP sensor, Fuel injectors, & Fuel rails, Post #1100
How to accurately measure pushrod length, Post #1058

Converting Holley HP EFI harness from 24x to 58x timing system, Post #960
Converting Holley HP EFI harness from LS1 to LS3 style knock sensors, Post #961
LS3 / LS7 oil pressure sensor with Holley HP EFI, Post #1087

Turn One power steering pump, Post #1152
Turn One Delphi 600 steering box, Post #1444

Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, Post #1272 ; Post #1300
Racetronix 340 pump upgrade with bucket siphon, Post #1475 ; Post #1504 ; Post #1505
Building a 5" air intake and sizing air filter, Post #1305

Video of power pull on dyno, Post #1315

Speedhut gauges in Firebird: Mounting Post #1692 ; Wiring TBD

General Repair

Paint detailing recipe, Post #1558,
Headlight motor bushing repair, Post #587
C5 Corvette headlight module in F-body, Post #1561
Troubleshooting headlight control module, Post #1277
Hatch pull-down motor wiring, Post #1277
Homemade gaskets for heater box, Post # 1171

LS7 powered (2019)

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I've been around here a long time. I've had my '89 Firebird for 20 years and it was the first car I ever bought. Old timers at this site will remember the 468 supercharged big block, but what most people don't know is that it never got on the road. I could never bring myself to hack up the pretty hood for the supercharger. The car sat in a garage with the big block on the motor mounts for 10 years.... Yes, 10 years! I had a few half-hearted attempts to sell the car but secretly I was glad it didn't sell. Finally last winter a few friends at work introduced me to the world of LS engines and made me a convert.

The big block is gone with zero regrets. Now I have a Gen IV iron block stroked to 427 with ported LS3 heads, TRex V2 cam (242/248), and FAST 102 intake. I can't decide if I'm going with a built T56 or TH400. I have both sitting in the garage, all I have to do is decide. Right now I'm doing wiring in the car and prepping for the F body LS1 harness. Engine is mostly mocked up and about ready to trial fit. It's been a real joy tinkering on my old car again this summer. Everything is familiar and it brings back good memories. This is fun! I'm glad I still have the old 'Bird.

This is as far as I ever got with the big block (2001)




And 10 years later under the knife again (2011)



-------------------------------------

PROJECT INDEX

Interior

Installation of 4th gen seat belts, Post #340
Installing new seat belt plastic sheaths, Post #1299
Wiring power seats, Post #310
Recaro seats & Jade seat belt guide, Post #1530
6-speed shift pattern inlay in the center console, Post #377
Repairing cracks in interior plastic, Post #116
Headliner and sail panels recovering, Post #1680 - 1687
LED dome light with delayed dimming, Post #1747

Electrical Power Distribution

Replacing fusible links with a Littlefuse MTR fuse holder, Post #419
Custom battery cables for power distribution, Post #432
Add-on underhood power center, Post #131

Holley HP EFI

Mounting Holley HP ECM in stock location under dash, Post #215
AC and Fan relay controls with Holley HP EFI: Wiring, Post #191 ; Software, Post #354
T56 solenoid reverse lockout with Holley HP EFI: Wiring, Post #179 ; Software, Post #353
LS3 / LS7 oil pressure sensor with Holley HP EFI, Post #1087
Pinouts of connections between engine harness and vehicle, Post #300
Converting Holley harness to from 24x to 58x timing system, Post #960
Converting Holley harness from LS1 to LS3 knock sensors, Post #961
Getting rid of that pesky low-rpm buck, Post #1751
Improving cranking times with fuel pressure compensation, Post #1752
Controlling a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, Post #1300

LS Engine Swap - General Electrical

Download of '88 Firebird Service Manual, Thread link
VATS bypass (Passkey bypass) after removing stock ECM, Post #304 ; Link to Tech Thread
Coolant temperature sensor for use with LS swap, Post #102
Heavy utilization of C100 for LS swap, Post #188
Wiring a speedometer thru C100 connector, Post #190
Wiring a brake roll stop thru C100 connector, Post #315
Wiring LS1 F-body alternator excitation wire directly to a fuse panel, Post # 884
Potting material to waterproof wiring pass-thru at passenger kick panel, Post #219

LS Engine Swap - General Mechanical

The perfect throttle cable, Post #182
Modifying passenger side coil bracket for clearance to AC box, Post #279
Steam line from engine to radiator, Post #368
Coolant bypass valve and heater hoses, Post #366
Upper and lower radiator hose with LS1 F-body water pump, Post #128
Which coolant to use with LS engine swap, Post #336 - 338
LS oil pan dimensions, Post #936 ; Link to Tech Thread
Installing LS crank damper bolt, Post #69
Removing a trans pilot bearing from crankshaft, Post #86
Fitting a T56 Quicktime bellhousing, Post #68
4th gen clutch pedal and Tick clutch master cylinder, Post #67
Air bleeding T56 transmission hydraulics, Post #1296

Fuel System

Fuel lines and fittings with LS1 F-body plastic fuel tank, Post #293
Shortening fuel tank filler hose, Post #250 ; Post #258
-6AN drop lines from fuel tank, Post #250
LS1 F-body fuel filter installed on car, Post #297
0-90 Ohm fuel level sender swap with 4th gen fuel tank, Link to Tech Thread
How to wire a Racetronix Hot Wire kit for LS1 F-body, Link to Tech Thread
Modifying Racetronix harness for use with an underhood power center, Post #300
Passing larger wire thru rear bulkhead to fuel pump, Post #270 ; Post #317
Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump, Post #1300
Racetronix 340 pump upgrade with bucket siphon, Post #1475 ; Post #1504 ; Post #1505
C5 fuel filter regulator parts list, Post #1505

Air Intake

Airaid U-Build-It 4" air intake, Post #325
Airaid U-Built-It 5" air intake, Post #1305
The $6 ram-air mod, Post #1018

Brake System

How to calculate braking torque, and list of stock master cylinders and proportioning valves, Link to Tech Thread
Stock brake line fittings at master cylinder, Post #143
Brake line fittings with Wilwood 5-port prop valve, Post #584
Brake line fittings with Wilwood 2-port prop valve, Post # 1178
Swapping to a 4th gen brake master cylinder, Post #493
Yep, you guessed it... swapping back to 3rd gen brake master cylinder, Post #1171
Retaining brackets for rear brake hose with disc brakes, Post #268
Strange axle with 1LE backing plates, bearing standoff, and seal replacement, Post #1579 - 1603

Steering

Hybrid Astro / F-body steering shaft, Post #650 ; Post #653
Upgraded steering column lower bearing, Post #1153
Turn One power steering pump, Post #1152
Turn One Delphi 600 series steering box, Post #1444
How to rebuild a steering column, Link to Tech Thread

svandorst

beautiful car..I wasn't around on the forums back in 01 but I don't need to be, to recognize a beauty when I see one lol. Just my opinion but if you're just going to stick to making it a street/weekend car I'd go with the t-56. But for tracking it i'd say go with the auto.

either way you go, this car is sex on wheels.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I remember when you started that big block swap. Nice to hear that the car will finally see the light of day again, and with an even better power plant. It sounds like your combo should be in the 550-600 rwhp range, with less weight and 2x the fuel economy of a similarly powered bbc.

lunati397

I know how you feel my car hasnt been touched for 6 years roughly only to have the motor pulled out I cant wait to start tinkering with it again I get back home in a month and have a LS based motor sitting there waiting

Good luck I know the LS motors very well if you need any help

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

"What ever happened to QwkTrip's car anyway?" - I've actually had that thought before and remember drooling over pics of your car back in 01/02. Glad you're happy with the project now

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks guys. I appreciate the compliments.

This will be a fair weather driver. She saw winter driving for the first 10 years and luckily escaped with hardly a scratch. No more of that. I'm not afraid to get it wet but the drag radials aren't exactly safe in rain. I'm leaning more towards the manual right now and have a twin disc clutch mounted to the engine. I know the manual will make for a better mannered street car, but fact is that an auto wins races.

cam-

Stick alllll the way man. Its just so much more fun to row your own than it is to puddle around with a slush box. Smiles per mile is how I make these calls rather than what will take me down the 1/4 the absolute fastest. Its going to roll out plenty fine with that engine anyways

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i remember the car, i was 17 when i first saw pics of it...ugh...27 next month, lol! lots of cars on this board that never got finished.

musicfreako

iTrader: (1)

I got to ask. What wheels are those? I gotta have em!!!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yep, those wheels are hot.

ROH brand wheels out of Australia. These are the RT style in 17x9 and satin silver finish. You can't buy them because ROH no longer imports to North America.

My wheels are new. I have a problem where my 13" brake upgrade is causing the front wheels to stick out. I'm either going to buy new wheels with different offsets or get the Wilwood 12" brakes that will move the wheels back to stock location. I can't decide because I don't particularly want Wilwood brakes, and the only wheels I like are $650 each. The choices in economical wheels for our cars are abysmal. I've written ROH inquiring if they could send me two new wheels with different offsets but they don't reply. If I could get a very good price for my new ROH wheels then I might be convinced to part with them....

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

That's good advice. I like the way you said that.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

About time...

10 years ago I was dead set on RTs on my '87 formy because of your car.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I remember you


In that time I've done, 4 fuel pumps, five rear ends(mostly ten bolts I blew up), 13 engines, and 5 transmissions as well. So I think you made off a lot cheaper than me, always swapping/breaking things to go faster.

cam-

Theres some tragedies too. Like this one linked below.... how the HELL do you get this far and this much $$$$$ buried and not finish the thing.... Sad I almost feel like going down and helping him finish it off. But then again my car is still not quite back together either so maybe I better focus on that LOL

Mind you I have come a LONG way but thats for another thread

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...one-phase.html

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

anyone remember Zephyr's lt1 swapped ta? he was one of the pioneers in getting that drivetrain swapped, but found a complete car and ended up selling his TA before he could get it totally running...

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ordered fuel system parts this weekend. Going with the Racetronix pump and hotwire kit in a 4th gen tank.

I think I went too small with the fuel line though. Ordered up 6AN braided hose and fittings. The hose is fine but I'm regretting the -6AN fittings since they neck down quite a bit. Thinking of sending back all the fittings and lines and bend my own 1/2 inch hardline with -8AN fittings adapting to the stock fuel rail and 4th gen tank. If I did that then I surely wouldn't have any concerns with excessive pressure drop and could run a "returnless" style fuel system with the regulator close to the tank. Using the bigger line is harmless. Using too small line is a real problem.

I went ahead and got the booster connector in case I end up needing a voltage booster for the fuel pump. I think I'll be okay, but might as well have the provisions sitting there just in case.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Actually, the full flow straight through Russell fittings measure out just a hair smaller than the LS3 fuel rail. As long as I stay away from the curved fittings I think I'll be fine with 6AN.

Carlos773

iTrader: (3)

I remember seeing the car in the past as well. Looks like the twin of my 86. Same original paint but the previous owners painted it to a darker met red.

Looks good. I look forward to see the progress.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The 427 is starting to take shape and look more like an engine.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

woot! looks sick man. those the 2" hawks headers?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

1-3/4" primaries to 3" collectors. I bought them used with only 1200 miles or some extremely low amount like that. The 2" headers are very expensive and I've never seen a used set for sale. These headers will do for me unless I find the engine is being choked.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I'll let you know right now, those headers will choke that motor. A cam only ls1 picked up HP and TQ from 1 7/8" headers over 1 3/4" headers. This was above 3700 I believe.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

awesome build.. I remember the BB/Roots combo back in the day too. If I didnt have a the lowerend my 383lt1 does Id sell out in a minute to do a big cube lsX combo and mate my Novi2000 to that.

As for tranny go with the built T56. I wish I had one over the Built Th400 I have.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I ran into a slight complication. I turned the engine by hand and could feel a drag and scraping noise at the same point of rotation every time I turn over the crank. Popped off the oil pan and found the #1 rod bolt rubbing the oil pan and cutting a groove. Need to clearance the oil pan, I guess.

Scrape in the oil pan bump-out.




Caused by #1 rod bolt.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

One new fuel module modified with a Racetronix pump and ready to go in the tank.

I bought a Corvette fuel filter with regulator, but now that I'm looking at the F body fuel module I can't think of a reason why not to use the F body in tank regulator. Anybody have a good reason why the Corvette regulator should be used instead?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

typically, people use the corvette filter when using the stock tank. if you're using the fbody tank, use the fbody reg.

but with that much motor, i'd be running -8 and an AFPR at the rail. my opinion.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

A little touch up with a grinder and the engine turns smoothly now. While I was in there I knocked down quite a few casting imperfections. Engine is buttoned up and looking good again.

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

What am awesome ride! That is so cool that you are upgrading her. I had a buddy with one of those B&M Blowers on his ... cough, cough 81 Camaro when it was couple years old, sounded really sweet.

Nice selection on the new power plant, with keeping that stock hood she will be quite the sleeper.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I spoke with Texas Speed today and was pleased to find out they do tunes without locking the PCM. They will set me up with a good mail order tune to get my engine running and driving safely. Then I can make my own changes as I like, or Texas Speed will make updates for any reason within a year of purchase at no extra charge. What is really nice is that Texas Speed will e-mail me tunes so I don't have to mail in the PCM (same day turn around). I have HP Tuner and can flash the PCM myself. I'm nowhere near ready to start my engine but it is nice to know I have a plan to get the engine running without causing damage or being frustrated with the tuning process.

I've had a Texas Speed mail order tune before and frankly it was gobs better than the 'professional' street driven wide-band tune previously on the same car. Texas Speed does awesome work as far as I'm concerned.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Haven't done anything with the car in a few months and the garage is uncomfortably cold now. Decided to dismantle my 4th gen harness in the warmth of my basement.

The harness seemed like a real mess until the very end when suddenly all that was left were commons for fuel injectors, O2 sensors, and a few other connectors. i didn't cut a single thing yet except the heater element wires for the rear O2 sensors since those will be ditched. I did de-pin a few connectors to make bundling of wires possible.

Messy!




5 hours later organized and everything labeled twice!

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Im curious as who to contact for a tune from texas speed as I need a tune and was gonna use a file from the HP tuner archive to start with but if they can do one for my car and I only have to tweak it if needed I would rather do that. I only know of 1 real good tuner up here but its hard to get him to do it as I would have to bring it to him and I would rather not tow or trailer my car if i dont have to

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Texas Speed.

http://www.texas-speed.com/

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

yeah i was having a retarded moment there LOL what i meant to say is who to ask for when I call or can anyone help me. Oh well Ill email / call them and see what they say

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

They'll set you up. Just ask for the tuner. Very nice and helpful people in my experience.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Thanks man as all I need is a tune and a Y-pipe made up and im pretty much set up to be done in the next few weeks. just in time for the car to be in storage till may LOL. I will call them tomorrow for sure

SDTransAM

iTrader: (5)

Seriously??? You didn't drive the car because of the hood? You could of ran it with no hood, or even got a big cowl hood. That is a lame excuse.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ordered some 52 lb/hr injectors from FuelInjectionConnection.com. The injectors are kind of slick. It is a late model design having very quick response time (faster than LS1 injectors) so idle can be easily tuned, but have the EV14 connectors so I don't have to redo my LS1 Camaro wiring harness. And the injectors can be resized exceeding 100 lb/hr (can't remember exactly, but it was huge). Basically this is the only set of injectors I will ever have to buy since it can be modified to handle whatever I want.

The problem I ran into though is with the fuel rails for FAST 102 LSxR intake. Bottom line is that FAST designed an intake that won't properly mate to any stock fuel rail. LS3 injectors are too short and need a spacer. But the FAST spacer lifts the injector away from the air stream and causes fuel to pool on the walls of the injector bore (Fuel Injection Connection sells a top side spacer to avoid this). And LS1 injectors are too tall and move the rail 1/2" off the mounting platform and off center so you can't align the mounting tabs. My solution was to buy a special fuel rail from Nasty Performance made specifically for FAST intake and LS1 height injectors. The fuel rail gives me room for growth, if needed, and will bolt on without hassle.

I've got quite a bit of money in this FAST intake now and I came pretty close to ditching it and putting the stock LS3 intake back on the engine. But after doing some digging around I was able to confirm the FAST really does give me more power in the upper register where I want it. We'll see. I figured I'm only doing this once so it's not a big deal.

Likewise, I also decided to upsize to the 2" primary headers so I'll be selling my 3/4" primary headers some time in the future.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Nasty fuel rails fit nicely. Had a neat surprise though because the fuel rails are anodized black. I didn't know it would be like that but it looks really cool! I ordered up some black fuel line and black AN fittings to match. With the fuel injectors in place now I am laying out wiring on the engine.

musicfreako

iTrader: (1)

Looking great!!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Been looking into what to do about the knock sensors. I have a Gen IV block and it doesn't have sensors in the valley - it's on the side of the block. And the LS2 sensor that goes in that location is a different type of sensor and smaller thread size than LS1 sensor.

LS1 knock sensor is a broadband type and LS2 knock sensor is a flat response type and they are not interchangeable. Explanation of how it works is here (post #25) http://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagno...-computer.html The other issue is that knock sensors are finely tuned by application and location on block. Even changing from aluminum block to iron block changes the parameters. Here are the options I've found:

1. Many people just eliminate the knock sensor in the tune. I think that's kind of stupid. It is there to protect your engine from serious damage.

2. Drill and tap the LS2 holes for larger thread size of LS1 knock sensor. As far as I can tell this mostly works but reduces the effectiveness of the knock sensors. In other words, it won't pull back timing as readily. Maybe not a bad thing since LS1 knock sensors are overactive anyway?

3. Use a lathe to turn down the LS1 knock sensor for M8 thread. Same thing as above but you're modifying the sensor instead of the block. Seems bass-ackwards to me.

4. Use empty motor mount hole in side of block. Has same thread as LS1 knock sensor. I don't like this because knock sensors are very sensitive to tuning and that is NOT a location designed for knock sensor. This is lazy approach because the block already has a hole for knock sensor, you just have to resize it.

5. Use the LS2 knock sensors and reconfigure the LS1 PCM. This can be done with EFI Live by changing the knock sensor type, and changing some pinouts on the PCM. Most people do not know about this option and don't know the LS1 PCM has a setting for flat compensated knock sensor. Almost everybody I've found that tried this was unsuccessful to get the engine running right, not because the PCM or sensor is bad, but because they can't find a knock sensor data table that works. However, it seems some people in Australia do this and I found this guy in the U.S. that does it. http://www.pcmcalibrators.net/ Information for changing PCM pinouts is here http://forum.efilive.com/archive/index.php/t-11561.html (read the whole thing because there are mistakes in the thread, and I can't verify any of it is correct)

6. Use an LS2 PCM. Not sure what all is involved with this. I do know you have to do conversion from drive by wire to drive by cable, or use an electronic throttle pedal. Conversion to drive by cable is here http://www.lt1swap.com/cable_conversion.htm

Honestly, I would do option 5 if I just had more confidence it would work well. But I'm not that adventurous so I'll probably do option 2 because it is common and does work for the most part. Option 6 is probably more involved than I want. Update: See Post #89 for sensor install, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5409593

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Ordered up a complete stainless exhaust today from Hawks Third Gen. I've always been one of those people with the jaw drop when I see the price on that kit, but now that I've actually had to sit down and understand my options I did choose the Hawks kit.

I wanted the 2" primary LSx headers anyway so $1200 of that can be disregarded. Then consider that a comparable Magnaflow catback is $600, and I'd have at least $350 into a Y-pipe that has to be fabricated and I don't have the skills or tools. Well, that's a good $2150 in exhaust and I had to do extra work to make the Y-pipe. Now for $150 extra I can have the Hawks kit with v-band clamps (the clamps are worth that much) and it slips in place without drama, and I don't have to make anything. Done deal.

If you can make exhaust for yourself then all power to you. Saving money is the reward for having the skills, tools, and time. For somebody like me who wants a bolt in solution the price actually turned out to be competitive when comparing to other stainless alternatives.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Don't feel bad, I'm over $450 in materials to build my large tube step headers, that doesn't take into account the $220 chop saw or $1300 welder setup, my time, free labor, etc etc. And that's still mild steel

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

It's all good because this is for fun, not an investment! I'll bet you've had a lot of enjoyment playing in the shop with your new tools.

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

You are as bad as me when it comes to justifying costs to myself for things I really want in my build. I had a good laugh when I read it.

Engine is looking awesome!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I practice here first before I talk to my wife.

STREETDEMON

i had to chuckle on this comment, so true about many things in life. my wife races hobby stock cars, so generally i don't have to do too much convincing when it comes to go fast parts for cars/pickups in the garage.

i can't wait to see how that thing runs, someday i would like to have the 427ci moniker on the side of my Z/28! keep up the good work!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I've seen pictures of the spark plug boot laying on #3 header tube with LS1 engines, but that problem seems even worse with my LS3 heads. Below are pictures of the MSD truck wires with Stainless Works 1-3/4" primary headers. The #3 boot is bent and laying hard against header, and #5 is touching header. I have a set of 2" primary headers coming in soon so we'll see if the tube routing is any different.

One maddening thing is I put a boot on one of the truck coils and it didn't feel right so I pulled it off and the whole piece of the truck coil came with it! I was so annoyed! I guess it's better to break now than in the car.

Driver side #3 bent hard against tube. #5 touching tube.





Passenger side fits beautifully.




Broken coil.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

on my 5.3L suburban swap one coil broke like that too on me. As for those plugs, get with firecore 50 or whatever that company is and have them custom make you ones with 45 or 90 degree boots on there. Luckily with building my own headers I had tons of room for plug and wire changes, I hate working on cars that make everything a big ordeal to wrench on at the track.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Good news today. I called MSD and the spark plug wires I have (part number 32823) are designed so that the boot at the plug can be bent up to 90 degrees just behind the MSD logo. Nice! It's like being able to make your own plugs but without the hassle!