rojas1826

ok so i did the vortec heads on my 305 tpi motor and these were the results r/t .498, 60' 2.119, 1/8 9.428, 1/4 14.804@ 92.48 i only got one run due to rain this was with a passenger which is my cousin, i shifted the automatic in first then second then accidentaly pushed the lever forward to neutral a little and back to third or d and i have regular passenger street tires on it no performance stuff i think theyre general tires

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Now you need to get into tuning the Chip and get the engine the proper air/fuel ratio and timing advance.

Are you using 350 Vortec heads or 305 heads? If its un-milled 350 heads, you lost ALOT of compression.

rojas1826

i got the heads from jegs i think they are 350 heads. i wanted to get it tuned and all but dont know where is a good place near chicago i live about 45 min away. so is my e.t. bad or ok? what time should i have been doing?

rojas1826

so anyone else think i should be doing better? if so, how much?

danandamy

Not to hijack the thread or anything but what size chambers do the 305's have? I don't really think I'll ever go with the expense of heads for the small motor but Edelbrock has a new budget priced aluminum head out that I'd consider.

Dan

rojas1826

yeah it might not do much now but im thinking of a super or turbo-charger for it. i wanted the 305 because it has a little different note than the 350 and everyone has a 350. ill be happy in the high 300 to low 400 hp area. dont need more power than that . any race you win you will laugh at your opponent as he got beat by a motor lesser than the mighty 350. with the 350 theres no excuse to lose. ive already beaten a few imports and they all think my car has a 350.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Horsepower and proper tuning is horsepower and proper tuning, whether it's a 305, 350, or a 4 banger. It is fun to beat guys who have bigger engines, when you've got your smaller engine hooked up properly.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

My car ran that way with the stock heads and stuff, just with some longtube headers and msd box. should've had the heads milled to compensate for the lost compression

rojas1826

yep i need proper tuning and eh ill probably just get a lq4 or something

rojas1826

ey i found a few things i could have improved on. Lose the passenger, 2: needed new o2 sensors. found them cut off? prank or something? and tires were bald passenger tires. hopefully get another go with this setup this year cause everything is coming off, maybe ill sell everything.

z28freak84

its about a full second and 10mph off of where it should be....Its should run that with just the exhaust....

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

I think you could benefit from some practice and experience. 1 trip down the track is as good as nothing. You will learn things about your car while going down the track to improve the 60 ft time and so fourth.

That being said I doubt it will go faster than 14.5 which isn't really fast. I would suggest a 2800 stall to get some momentum and some 3.73's to keep the momentum going. Maybe thats the recepie for 13's.

rojas1826

cool that sounds good i mean i just launched it normal nothing fancy so yeah, also need to do something about the tq converter and rear gears. will a stealth ram help much also?

z28freak84

3.73, 3200++++ stall(32-3600), and a Stealth ram, and PROPER TUNING would rock n roll.

rojas1826

this is bs! i dont know whats going on! went to great lakes today, after computer tune and still bad motor mounts i ran.... r.t. was .840 60'..2.364 1/8...10.207@69.32mph 1000..13.327 1/4...15.992@83.90mph the car kept going slower after then i ran a16.009@84.45 r.t. .320 then 16.056@83.82mph r.t. .208 followed by the slowest was r.t. .058 60'...2.478 1000...13.495 1/4...16.213@82.25mph then i decided to go one more time to prove it was my car and not me and as i got to second i just heard a little boom and everything shut off. first i thought i ran out of gas and my gauge was bad but in the end all the rocking of the motor caused the distributor plugs to disconnect and broke a skinny vacuum that goes under the throttle body but i reconnected the dist. and used some windshield fluid hose to fix the vacuum and was able to drive home with broken pride and confusion. my car is running real bad i dont feel it as torquey as last year. cant even cause a squeal when flooring it from a stop and i hear some ticking going on somewhere. also car shuts off frequently and is a little hard to turn on. i will check the plugs maybe its a misfire.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

sounds like it could be lifter tick, or maybe even a rod knock. did the shop adjust the valves? something is definitely wrong if its running that slow. also your 60ft SUCKS my car will do 2.0x 60ft's on a good day, that alone will knock half a second off of your times.

rojas1826

went to turn on the car today and this is what its doing now...............http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZe0mqaBVYM

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

pull the valvecovers and look at the rockers

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

XE262 cam, .462" intake lift .469" exhaust lift w/1.5:1 rockers, with 1.6:1 rockers = .493"/.500" lift.

You're slamming the retainers into the guides, unless the heads have been modified for higher lift.

May have pulled out some rocker studs as well.

rojas1826

yep thats what i was thinking i didnt have the heads modified well i hope its that and not something internal.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty certain that stock/unmodified Vortecs are only good up to .475 lift.

On Vortecs (depending on where you get them and what's been done to them), when you get a bigger cam you need to shave down the valve guides for rocker/spring clearance, use screw in studs, and you need to use the appropriate valve springs for your camshaft. You should also drill out the pushrod holes in the heads a tad more (on my Vortecs, I made them 1/8" bigger), so the pushrods don't rub on the iron. I also hate guideplates. I prefer the self aligning roller rockers.

If I were you, I'd sell those 350 heads and get the EQ 305 (part number CH305A) specific heads from Rogers Performance. He will build the heads to your specifications for around $800 for both heads. The EQ heads are superior to GM castings, AND you can get them specifically for the 305. Much better choice for performance. You'll be much happier with these heads because A) they're designed for the 305 and B) your compression ratio (pay attention to your gasket thickness and your compression ratio) will be higher at around 9.5:1, which is what you want to make power on a naturally aspirated iron headed engine, while still being able to use pump gas effectively.

Do this, and you'll dip into the 13's in the quarter and maybe even into the 12's with some fine tuning of your engine and drivetrain.

The 305 is plenty of engine to make our cars really move.

rojas1826

well i found one problem, there is like a knocking noise, it isnt constant at idle, it just comes and goes, or when i give it gas.its coming from the passenger side, i opened up the valve cover and all the rockers seem to move pretty fast except the intake rocker on cyl 2, this rocker seems to hardly move, i tried adjusting but it sits fine. so could this be a collapsed lifter?

rojas1826

i also checked the pushrod and it is fine, not bent.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like a wiped out cam lobe.