85SILVERBULLET1

I have an 85 ta that is running 12.40s at 115 on motor making 406 hp and 406 tq. man trans at 5800 ft. I want to work on the suspension because the best i could get the 60 ft was 1.89. I have spohn lower control arms with the relocation brackets, hotchkiss rear sway bar, spohn adjustable pan hard rod. I am still running the stock springs and shocks. this was also with the factory torque arm with a urithane mount. tires are mt 275 60 r 15 drag radials. I am installing a TKO 600 with a spohn adjustable torque arm. What springs and shocks should i run. This is a street strip car that will see 70 percent street time. A sunday cruiser if you will. Spohn is trying to talk me into coil overs all around but 1500 for front and rear scares me. What do you guys think. Sorry for the long post.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

its hard to have your cake and eat it too, i.e drag strip sometimes, street most of the time. If the 1500 scares you you could go with the typical low budget set up...V6 rear springs with air bags, disconnect your front sway bar at the track to maximize weight transfer, some of the guys here can give you good numbers for pressure in those air bags cause they have had them. With the amount of HP you have it is hard to warrant adjustable coil overs..step into the 6-7 hp range and yes no doubt. seen your post with no replies so I thought I throw my opinion out there.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

how do you want it to drive on the street? are you ok with it feeling a little loose? a set of 70/30's up front, 50/50's (or 3 way adjustables) out back with some v6 rear springs and up front (or Moroso Trick springs for a few extra bucks) and you'll be good to go for quite a while.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

stick shift.....then double adjustable rear shocks minimum if you want to hook. Dump the drag radials and run a m/t 28x10.5 ET drag with stiff sidewalls. Fronts the simple 90/10 lake woods will be fine at that power level. For the torque arm, get it off the trans and run a crossmember style, whatever company floats your boat.

Rear and front springs, stockers are fine. Air bag in the passenger side at 20psi, up to 35 psi depending if track is hooking well or not, will determine that much.

Again, more power and it'll change but drag radials and stick cars don't work without major suspension tricks and even then a slick will outperform it on a marginal track.

85SILVERBULLET1

I gues that i spaced out the fact that this is a nitrous motor. I plan on running at least a 200 hit but i was trying to get the car figured out first. I should really be in the 600 to 650 range at the wheels on the bottle. I seem to have read Greezmonkey that are running an anti sway bar set-up on your camaro. are you also running the coil overs. How much street diving does your car see?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i could drive it cross country if I wanted....that's not the point, I have racecraft coilovers in the front now, and the wolfe racing rear spring setup with 90/10s up front. If you plan on that power, you'll definitely want the slicks and everything else I mentioned, don't forget that rear won't last I'm guessing if it's still a 9 bolt. Relocation brackets bought yet? I wouldn't dare weld a true anti-roll bar like the wolfe setup onto a 9 bolt when at that power level you're looking at a 9" preferably.

built91Z28

How good are you guys with the coil over kits getting your camber/caster? I have the Spohn front setup and couldnt get the camber/caster where I wanted it due to the limited range you have to work with becuase of the spring. Wondering if its just something you deal with or maybe my frame is a little tweaked.

Shagwell

With more street time than track time I'd shy away from coil-overs.

Softer springs at both ends and some decent shocks/struts(I too would run adjustables out back with a stick car, but at 1.89 you've got a lot left on the table no matter which way you go)

Getting radials to work well with a manual trans is no picnic, near impossible on a less than great surface. - Radials require a very well working/well tuned suspension, while a slick will take whatever you have and go with it decently. The same fine tuning will net you more even with slicks, but unlike the radials they'll still work ok with a less than optimal suspension.

gtpro700

What double adjustable rear shocks do you recommend?

Is the only way to get the torque arm off of the trans without it hanging down low the jegster torque arm? I have a dual exhaust setup that tucks close to the body and a lot of the trans crossmembers with the mounting point hang low or at least the ones I have seen. Any ideas? Thanks

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

HaHaaa NONE, NO street driving, straight track nowadays. I do have coilovers, front and rear (90/10 front and single adjustable rears) and a rear anti roll bar welded to a 9 inch ford. The other guys have some good ideas and know what they are talking about. You should be able to get 1.5 60`s with a cheap c/e triple adjustable shock and stock spring/air bag set up. I would go for a bolt on anti roll that will serve as dual purpose street and strip bar. Relocation brackets, good torque arm, slicks are required. The price of adjustable coilovers being what they are, I wouldnt sleep at night if I had to drive them around here on what some call streets! T

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

70% street time... OK, but what kind of driving? Is this a "just cruise around on weekends and to the track" thing or are you actually going to drive it? Do you expect it to handle or just be usable on the street?

The fact is that you can run much faster 60s with basically a handling setup and proper drag tires and some careful setup (at least 1.6's, I've seen 1.4's but with an auto and turbocharged car that doesn't hit the tires as hard), and if you're just rolling to a show or to the corner on a weekend there isn't a real reason that you couldn't run soft springs, drag rear bar, no front bar, drag struts/shocks, slicks and skinnies... as long as you don't expect it to corner...

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

70% street time... OK, but what kind of driving? Is this a "just cruise around on weekends and to the track" thing or are you actually going to drive it? Do you expect it to handle or just be usable on the street?

The fact is that you can run much faster 60s with basically a handling setup and proper drag tires and some careful setup (at least 1.6's, I've seen 1.4's but with an auto and turbocharged car that doesn't hit the tires as hard), and if you're just rolling to a show or to the corner on a weekend there isn't a real reason that you couldn't run soft springs, drag rear bar, no front bar, drag struts/shocks, slicks and skinnies... as long as you don't expect it to corner...

FWIW, I've run 1.6's with basically a handling setup in a 6 speed car with basically a handling setup with air bags and Nitto DR's (not much better than a good set of radials). Typically I ran 25-27psi in the passenger side bag, and 5-7psi in the driver's side.

85SILVERBULLET1

Crossfire that is exactly what i do with the car. So i guess what i need now is some part numbers........ So check list: remove front sway bar, v6 rear springs(Brand?), Air bag right rear(Brand?), 90/10 front struts(competition engineering?) rear shocks?, Bolt on anti roll bar rear?, and a set of et slicks. this sounds a little better to me than the coil over set nup.

85SILVERBULLET1

I ordered lakewood struts, comp engineering rear shocks, and a drag bag kit. With all the other stuff i have done what kind of 60s should i expect? 1.5s attainable? I will be ordering a set of slicks and wheels but that will have to wait a while as momma is already screamin after the trans swap.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

You need a quality rear shock for a stick car, a 3 setting comp rear shock isn't going to cut it. You need a double adjustable shock....like the strange offerings.

I still don't know if you'll cut any better 60' since you didn't buy slicks yet and I bet traction will still be lacking.

85SILVERBULLET1

Pony'ed up and bought the qa1 double adjustables. Cant wait to see how it comes out....

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

I could only get -3.8 caster on my coil overs from the spring hitting the body in the hole. PA said you could notch out the back some if you need more caster but mine drives just fine where its at without any notching. Or run the adjustable a arms to where you can moved the front wheel forward some.