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Drag race alignment

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Old 02-18-2024, 10:33 PM
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Drag race alignment

Installed an AJE K member, pinto rack and a coilover kit on my car, time for alignment. The coilover kit uses factory strut upper mounts. Car would lift the wheels before, this took 81 lbs off of the front so it should still lift the wheels. Of course the problem with these fronts is the large front travel and the large camber and toe change when it lifts the wheels. I've used an angle gauge on the lower A arm and the tie rods and set them at the same angle with spacers on the tie rod ends at the spindles. What are you setting the camber and toe at? Last time with the stock K member I had 0 on camber and toe with the frt raised 2" measured at the frt. spoiler.
Old 02-20-2024, 08:13 AM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Drag race alignment

I use a bump steer kit to relocate the tie rod ends lower.

A drag race alignment should be zero toe, zero camber or as close to zero as possible from full weight on the wheels to the wheels off the ground. That's where the bump steer kit comes in, It's trial and error to get it right. Caster is as much as your adjustment will allow. I think mine is at 5*.

There are plenty of youtube videos explaining how to check and adjust the bump steer to keep the camber close to zero.

I pull my front wheels off the ground when I launch. One other thing to try is to install some sort of travel limiter. I fabricated an adjustable cable system that connects the a-arm to the body. This limits how far the front end travels before trying to lift the wheels. I also use adjustable struts and have them cranked up tight so it's even harder to lift the front end.
Old 02-20-2024, 09:57 AM
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Re: Drag race alignment

I've got the basic 90/10 struts on the front that have been on there for years. 0 camber at rest changes a lot even before the wheels come off of the ground with all of the travel these front ends have. I've got a rack on it now and I've spaced the tie rod ends, which are 5/8" heim joints, to match the angle of the lower A arm. 0 toe again changes a lot when the front rises. Last time I aligned it I went for all zeros with the front raised 2" measured at the spoiler.
Old 02-20-2024, 01:13 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Drag race alignment

Try some sort of limiters then to let the body start lifting the chassis earlier. Technically it puts the chassis weight on faster so it starts to lift the chassis before the shocks reach full extension.

That's the nice thing about the SPA1 struts I use. They're not a high end double adjustable however I can adjust the softness. When adjusted full loose, I can grab the front end on the car and bounce it like it has very little shock. When cranked up to full firm, which I have them set at, if you grab a fender and try to bounce the front end, it's as hard as a rock. Still doesn't stop me from pulling the front wheels and carrying them past the 60 foot mark. I got some wheelie bars now but never got a chance to test them. I haven't been to a track in years. A 4 link adjustment could also help me keep the front end down. I have it set so the tires really dig in. Not getting any tire shake so I just leave the setting alone because it's working.
Old 02-20-2024, 02:16 PM
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Re: Drag race alignment

I don't have the horsepower or cubic inches that you do. My motors have all been 355's. I have run a 3 spd in the past on a glide now both with good converters I have ATI and TCI converters. New motor has gone 6.50's on gas haven't had it on methanol yet.
Old 02-20-2024, 08:07 PM
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Car: 87 IROC L98
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Drag race alignment

Although I'm not actively racing right now, I've still thinking of ways to lower my 60' times. One method would be going from the 4.89 gears to something like 5.13's but I think it would be more beneficial to get my old TH400 fixed and swap it in where the PG now sits. It would give me a deeper first gear to get off the line but I would have an extra shift to do. Would also be a good excuse to replace the shifter to one that can use an electric solenoid to do the shifting on RPM or time or even just another button to push.

The PG is nice and light and what I have can easily survive my power levels but it's only a 1.76 first gear which makes the launch even with a high HP car a little sluggish. Still doesn't stop me from pulling the front wheels.
Old 02-21-2024, 10:01 AM
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Re: Drag race alignment

I have 5:13 gears and a 1.76 glide, my T350 was 2.52 first so going to the glide did slow the 60' times but made my 60' more consistent. Track prep with a 10.5" tire the higher gear ratio would spin at times, the added torque of methanol made it worse.
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