Hi,
I just finished installing all of my suspension pieces, and ran into a problem with too much negative camber. I have my strut mounts (Spohn) moved out as far as they can go, and using my bubble level, I have roughly -1.5 degrees of camber on the drivers side and -0.5 degrees on the passenger side. Everything suspension/steering component is new:

Spohn Strut mounts
Koni Struts
Racecraft Drop Spindles
UMI A-arms (Bought these because I bent my stock a-arms trying to install new bushings)
Ground Control Weight Jacks w/ SSS Springs (I am using these for ease of installation and selecting my own spring rate, not to lower the car)
Spohn Tie Rods, Adjuster, Centerlink, Idler Arm

The car has never been in an accident. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what I should do?

 

may be a dump question, but are you checking these numbers with the suspension loaded or hanging?

since i dealt with every part on your list with no problems except the race-craft spindles, i would favor those, but they could be just fine.

are the tie rods ends hitting the wheels and not letting them sit flat oh the hubs? a problem with the spindles and wide front tires.

 

The suspension is loaded and I have rolled the car down the driveway and back up into the garage. I had the same problem with belltech drop spindles. I sold them because I also thought they were the source of the problem, but after installing the racecraft spindles, the camber was still a problem. The wheels are not hitting the tie rods, they are 18x8 with 4.75" of backspacing.

 

What #'s are you shooting for? 1.5° will cause minimum camber wear if the toe is zeroed out. The strut mount bolts have at least .5° of camber to be gained or lost at that point. (At least on my Koni's -the PO may have enlarged the holes) It may be worth a shot to try to loosen the bolts with a jack under the a-arm and pull the spindle outward.

 

I will try that right now, Thanks!

 

The strut to spindle bolt is the culprit here possibly: You can buy an adjustable one (not sure if the stock one is already somewhat adjustable) but with this you can also alter SAI and dial in a better overall alignment.. That's how I got mine to be in spec, otherwise the adjustable J+M camber plates wouldn't have been enough.