Chuck Haynes

1990 IROC-Z
350 - 700R4

What would be the easiest way to get it to 12's?

-Thanks

Cronic3rd

a Paxton

87transam5.7tpi

high 12's or low 12's? I'd say a good 150hp shot of N20, get a NX kit not NOS. your motor isn't going to last super long due to the fact that you have to boost alot or spray alot to get a car that runs 14 sec or so in the 1/4 to 12.5 lets say. think bout doing exhaust and TC first. thats my opinion though


Josh

1badTTA

well you could hack off 2 cylinders and add a turbo to get it to run 12's. Ran a 12.9 @ 111mph last night with the stock turbo injectors and exhaust on regular radials, should do better with the ET-Streets bolted up and more than 17psi of boost.

Just a suggestion in case somebody chimes in with the typical "build a better engine" comment and assumes a V8 is the better engine

25THRSS

It is a better engine, but lets not get into that. I say a 125 shot should get you to a very high 12. You could spray 150, but on a stock motor I think that would be pushing your luck.

Chuck Haynes

Okay, I really don't won't to go with Nitrous... I was thinking more along the lines of a Supercharger. This is my daily driver (although I've only had it about 3 weeks ) and I want it to stay streetable. I have just spend about $500 on an ignition system upgrade. I am looking to spend about $1000 on an FULL exhaust system (Headers, Cats, Y-Pipe, Cat-Back). I am also going to go with a Vigilante TC for like $800 and a TransGo kit. I have 3.23 gears and I'm ordering Spohn Sub-frame Connectors. What SC would be good for my setup... I would like to reach MID 12's now, with the possibility of getting to 11.99 later with more work and mods. I will be using Radial Street Tires ONLY. Is this a realistic goal, and will it be fairly easy to obtain?

What SC should I consider? How much $$ will it cost me? What will it do to my car's life expectancy? Would a custom PROM be needed?

-Thanks

25THRSS

All i can say is do a seach. You can learn a lot by searching.

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

I guess I'll be the first to ask. How many miles are on your engine, what condition is it in? If it has high milage or any current problems, you may want to think about freshening it up before you go and add enough boost to get you mid 12s, wich would be in the 12 psi range I'd imagine. Otherwise you might get your 12.....but not too many times.
As far as blowers go, don't bother with the Paxtons. The models for the 3rd gens are old, and typically don't last long when compared to others.
ATI probobly has the best record with 3rd gens. Their kits are intercooled, make good boost (9,12 psi,+), and are very well priced.
Again though, make sure you have a solid foundation for it.

Chuck Haynes

The engine has 113,000 miles on it. It doesn't leak a drop of oil. Both the engine and transmission feel strong and have no known problems. What type of 'refresh' procedures are you talking about?

mypontiac

ProCharger.

Go to http://www.tenperf.com/header.htm and get your check book out!!!!

Install and go fast.

87transam5.7tpi

yes I agree, ATI is the only way to go for superchargers. Great product!!!

Josh

Cronic3rd

Me a dumass. I ment PROCHARGER not paxton : (

Der91Z

iTrader: (1)

113,000 miles is a fair amount to just supercharge. If the car didn't leak oil before, it just might after a supercharger installation with the added pressure. I think your goal is very realistic but needs to be thought out more than just buy a few parts and expect it to hit 12's. Hooking up is half the battle in getting the car into the times you want, so you might want to look at spohn.net or thunderracing for some traction mods. I agree highly with 87Fake-IROC-Z, make sure you have a good foundation first before you build.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

easiest = N2O. No doubt about it.

MelloYello

Go with nitrous and you wont be sorry. I spent $800 total on my GM EFI kit and Gen X-2 kit and have had no problems. I've ran 3 bottles at the 150 hp level and I love it for 3 important reasons:

1. It is VERY streetable - without the bottle I'm in the high 13s and 17 mpg

2. I'm WAY ahead in the wallet department - with the $2500 I saved over a Procharger system, I can get a Probuilt 700-R4 and a Yank 3000 nitrous to replace the parts I've broken

3. Nitrous goes with anything - It further cools the intake charge on forced cars, it looks good on showed cars, and it makes for a good insurance policy. Plus, if you dont like it, you can sell your kit and there will always be someone who will want to buy it.

Anyway, thats my opinion, dont knock nitrous. I did for a long time, but have finally seen the light.

mypontiac

Did you do any work to your bottom end?????????

:lala: :lala: :lala:

B4Ctom1

MelloYello

I have a stock bottom end with 103,XXX miles, stock heads (and gaskets ). I use local 93 octane fuel (Illinois, Near St. Louis) and use nitrous responsibly. I dont spray all the time. IMO, Nitrous can be just as safe as any other power adder if the correct amount of safety and common sense is used. You hear stories about nitrous blowing more stuff up, but could that be because it takes 5 min to swap in larger jets? The key is to not exceed cylinder pressure limits by spraying at too low an RPM. You must realize that the amount of fuel/nitrous mixture sprayed is constant throughout the RPM range. At 5000 rpm each cylinder will process 1/2 the nitrous/fuel mixture it would at 2500 rpm (because there are twice as any cycles and the same amount of nitrous/fuel). I spray at the top of first (3500 rpm up) to keep cylinder pressures reasonable. That way, I only have to worry about the inevitable fatiguing of parts. I control the nitrous mixture with a fully automatic bottle heaer, fuel pressure safety switch, and a purge kit.

In a nutshell:
It works, I love it, everyone should own one

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Here I go again, pissing people off :

FWIW, that should get you deep into the 12’s assuming that the engine is healthy and you can drive.

I’ve run 13.5@100 in an ’87 L98 formula with a cold air intake and cat back on radials. Just guessing, but your camaro should be a little lighter, I’m betting you’re a lot lighter (I’m over 300#), and your ’90 L98 should have 30 more HP from the factory. I really believe that headers and a good y-pipe would have gotten me close to 13.0, and a converter would have gotten the car there (some quick math shows that you need to find about 50 more HP then I had at the same race weight to run a 12.8, which would mean you’re looking to get less then 20 more hp to the ground by adding a set of headers, y-pipe and converter. Assuming that you+your car is about 100# lighter, then we’re talking about you finding 5-10 HP to the tires with those same mods.

with a power adder, pick what you like… they’ll all work. I’d be disappointed if I didn’t see 100hp and 11’s with just about anything once it’s tweaked correctly.

Tuning/custom prom… will make any combination better. I spent a bit of time tweaking even that stock L98 and found that I ran best times with 54psi FP and 4* initial timing… I probably could have found more if I was running stock settings and made those changes in a chip (I was running pig rich at part throttle/idle)

12 Sec GTA

Easiest & cheapest is nitrous, hands down.

iroczrockz

That is funny B4Ctom1. That plane itself would be lucky to hit 12's in the 1/4 at full speed. LOL.

Have any of you guys ran nitrous with hyperteutic pistons? If so what level can you do that?

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

I've sprayed a 150 at the wheels on mine. I wouldn't go to much over that. It depends more on how the car is tuned. Make sure you have plenty of fuel and retard the timing accordingly. I've had some detonation w/ a 100 shot and a nitrous back fire (fire ball leaping out of the intake) on my hyper-pathetic pistons and the rings, ring lands, and pistons all were fine.

They don't tollerate detonation like a forged piston does, but they don't suck all together.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I've run 175hp shot on stock LT1 hypereutectic pistons...

B4Ctom1

yes but stock pistons appear to have magical properties in comparison to the most expensive hyper pistons though for some reason. care to share some ideas on why that is?

CrazyHawaiian

I agree that nitrous will be the cheapest and easiest way. It dosnt matter what method you choose, the fact is you need a good foundation like '87FAKE-IROC-Z said. Drivetrain, cooling, brakes, suspension, and of course a strong motor. I'm running a Vortech S-Trim V1 S/C on my 115K mile L98 and sometimes I think the motor is about to die. Previous owner slapped it on @ 75K miles without thinking about the foundation. Dont have any track times yet because the car is unreliable. Car runs hot and the drivetrain is weak. You can slap a blower on and probably reach your goal, but the best way to do this in the long run is start with the foundation. Or you'll end up like me, having a car that can probably do what you want, but then afraid to really beat on it because it WILL break. I'm not gonna push the car untill I have enough $$ saved up to fix it when it breaks. Nitrous would seem like a good idea because it wont affect your driveability when you're not in the mood to race. The S/C is always on, its always loud, and its always hot. Not saying I dont like S/C's in any way, just something to think about when modding your daily driver (like me). Everything has tradeoffs, just go with what fits your situation the best.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

As compared to what? Maybe some cheap aftermarket ones. FWIW, I don't know that I've ever seen a set of KB pistons that fell apart that I didn't believe was caused by abuse. I have seen stock pistons eventually fall apart without anything that I would call significant abuse.

For that matter, I’ve seen cast pistons in a small block run 9’s for over a season.

The question isn’t what power level will break them if everything is right, since that is much more then most people ever make it to, the real question is how wrong can things get before they break and how good are you at keeping things right.

Trans_AM_88

nice post. i dont know much about N20 or anything, but ive been wanting to. the stuff you said about spraying only at higher rpms...well my car rarely gets over 2300 rpms...i have an automatic trans and a '88 trans am gta. you have a manual...but can you spray N20 safely on autos? i can get my car up to almost 4k rpm, but thats when im cruising at about 65mph and i stomp on it hard as hell...and even when i do that, as soon as i get up towards 4k rpm it shifts to OD.

Dragroc

For just over half the price you would pay for a good Procharger kit, you could buy some AFR 190 heads and a nice cam, and while you are doing those you could slap a Holley Stealth Ram on there and be in the 12's easy. On top of this, you would be changing all of your gaskets out which is a good thing, and you would want to put in a new timing chain which is also a good thing...then you would have a fresh upper motor that you could easily reuse when it comes time to freshen up the bottom end...And you would easily run in the 12's. Just my input, these mods would compliment your Vigilante and your headers that you plan on buying quite nicely...
-Mark

B4Ctom1

I guess my comparison would have been better drawn between aftermarket cast and stock cast

MelloYello

If you plan on using nitrous to race, then you will always be over 2300 rpms

I have an automatic transmission as well. I believe its safer on automatics anyway, because you cant miss a shift (unless ur retarded). Adjust your transmission cable to get a higher shift.

TonyP455

I really dont want to start a fight, but I jus want to know what u and the people agree with you are thinking. In what way do u think a smaller engine is better than a large one. k thanx.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I don't know that it's fair to compare any cheap knockoff parts to anything else... seems like most stuff that fits that category scatters and leaves you walking home if you look at them funny.