Cronic3rd

What all needs to be done to a shortblock to handle a 300 shot? Is all 4340 parts enough or do I need to have the block o-ringed?

edit with copper head gaskets and arp studs all around.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Just asked

Cronic3rd

Read that one. Really just wondering if O-ringing is necessary or not.

Yarnboy

There seems to be a o-ring/no o-ring debate..O-ringing basically insures that you won't blow a head gasket. But at what cost? The bottom end? I'm not helping I know, just kind of saying "I don't know" in a round about way.

Cronic3rd

I'd rather blow head gaskets than shortblocks so no oringing for me.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Well, one site that was linked to said thier copper gaskets could be used with or without an o-ringed block.

B4Ctom1

Dont bet your life on it...

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

Total seal rings gapped .032 = 210
JE pistons for nitrous = 720
Eagle H beams = 500
forged crank = came w/ the ZZ4
ARP studs (4-bolt) = 80-90
Machine work = do the math

Total for me, just under $2400. I'm using a 1003 felpro head gasket. I'll be spraying up to a 300 shot.

Cronic3rd

What kind of pistons do you guys recommend? What do you all think of probe industries forged pistons?

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

Not a bad piston at all. I also recommend an ARIAS, JE, ROSS, CP, any of those will do fine. Some of them won't stock them and will have to be custom made. In this case, the price goes up, and you can't return them. Just some things to keep in mind.

As for the machine work, NEVER take material out of block if you don't have to. Hone the block according to the manu. specs and be happy. Don't bore anything unless its required. That way, if something should go wrong, you still have some meat left over to work w/.

A couple more things, I would go w/ a 1043 head gasket. The thickness is .039 and the bore is 4.080. You WILL have to make sure that the cumbustion chamber is NOT larger than the gasket. If it is larger than look into the 1003. I had to use the 1003 w/ my Protopline 200cc (64cc). The Fel-Pro 1010 is also a good choice but will leave you w/ a slightly (and I mean slightly) lower C/R do to its 4.166 bore. All 3 of these will/should put up w/ a 300 shot.

If you decide to go w/ the Eagle H-beams then the block should be clearanced for them to fit. I had atleast a 0.010 clearance, but that was to tight for my liking so some time w/ a grinder and its now at 0.060 as a minimum. This will probably hold true w/ any other heavy duty rod as well. You will also have to beat the snot out of your factory windage tray so the rods won't kit. Not a big deal, just time consuming.

Don't be skerd, just bump up the jets.

PS- Whatever you think this project is going to cost, go ahead and double it, you'll be a lot less depressed in the end. You'll actually save more money b/c you won't be going to theropy as long.

Cronic3rd

lol - it ain't my money and I got around 10,000 to use. Less spent is better but the budget is there. I think I will go with the probe pistons- aggressive pricing and they look to be technoligically advanced - they have what probe calls radial anti detonation grooves which supposedly reduces detonation by creating pressure waves. I haven't found anything like that on other pistons and since detonation is what kills nitrous motors I feel that that would be a good thing to have. The rods are going to e pro line 4340 billit I beams rated for 1000 hp - should be plenty strong for 700-800. and the crank is also a 4340 pro line rated for 1000 hp and 10,000rpm. The heads are pro top line 220cc alums on a 388. Should run good.

AutoRoc

iTrader: (1)

Weld the heads to the block also there good buddy...lol Just messin with ya I have seen worst case scenario come about with 300 or more hp worth of spray on many an engine LAst one was a 422 LS1 in 3-4 times more pieces than it started in.