zupmanZ28

So i'm starting to plan my nitrous setup, and i wanna make sure i have my bases covered. To start, the motor is a 350, forged flat top pistons, PM rods and ARP waveloc bolts. Drivetrain is a t56 and a 9"

Ignition wise i've got an MSD pro billet distributer, an HVC coil, and Digital 6+. Fuel wise, for the NA side i've got a Demon 750DP, and will be using a Victor mech. pump.

Nitrous system will be an NX hitman system, which should have a master switch and a throttle switch already in it. I plan to get an MSD window switch as well. I'll be using the timing retard on the Digital 6, so timing will be retarded whenever the master switch is armed.

Although im sure it's overkill i plan to run a dedicated nitrous enrichment fuel system, using a 1gallon fuel cell under the hood. Gonna use a summit Electric fuel pump (140 gph) a bypass regulator, and run that whole mess straight to the fuel solenoid.

Does that seem right? Now onto the questions. By rule of thumb, how much retard should i need for a 150 shot? What kind of guages will i be needing? anything else i'm missing?

Eric

Meatikis

i believe youd need to retard that about 6 degrees

MCas7

I have always been taught, that you retard the timing 4 degrees for every 100 horsepower and go 1 to 2 steps colder in spark plugs heat range.

For gauges, I would make sure that you have a fuel and oil pressure gauge. Actually, you might want to gauge both fuel systems, but I would make sure that you can see the nitrous one from inside the car. Also, make sure you have a fuel safety switch hooked up to the nitrous system.

Meatikis

im probably wrong, but i'd double check on the spark plug thing. when my friend installed his setup he said you dont want to run colder plugs... i don't see why(and he couldn't tell me... ) but it's one of those things thats best to double check.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Some of this is more up to what works then rules of thumb… NX tends to recommend not retarding timing for their N2O setups, but is pretty adamant about cooler plugs. I've tried it that way and was happy with the results, but most of the time ran about 2-4* retard to make myself feel better

Meatikis

really? i guess now i have to go punch my friend for the bad info. well from now on i will know that.

zupmanZ28

i was just reading the instructions for the hitman kit, and i cam across this:

if you feel it ness. to run a dedicated fuel system, you must run a bypass line with a maximum .050 oriface from the "high pressure" unregulated side of the fuel regulator back to the fuel tank..."

Can someone shed some light on this for me? i was planning to run a simple bypass regulator, with a return line to the fuel cell. Is this what they are requiring? they make it sound as though the return line needs to "T" with the fuel line BEFORE it hits the regulator.

can someone clarify this for me?

Eric

rustbird

DUDE im shottin a 250hp shot and i have half the amount of safety equipment you got there i would definatly say over kill one the 1 gallon fuel cell but other wise the fuel cell i would say you allllll good.

MCas7

First of all, you can never overkill on safety items when it comes to nitrous. I would rather be way too safe than dead or replacing my motor.
Second, If you are running a carb setup, and you have a dedicated fuel cell (which by the way is the right way to go), then as long as you have a bypass regulator, you are fine. Just make sure the return line goes to back to the fuel cell.

zupmanZ28

my sentiments exactly. I know i dont need the dedicated system, but i'd much rather spend the extra cash and know i'm good to go.

I figured all i needed was a return on the bypass regulator, but that stuff about the .05 restrictor in it was confusing me. I've read up on a couple other peoples dedicated systems and hadn't seen anything mentioned about a restrictor in the return line.

Eric

MCas7

The only reason they tell you to put a restrictor is so that the regulator doesn't just flow from the pump right back into the fuel cell. There needs to be a pressure buildup in order for the regulator to work right. But they really shouldn't tell you you need a restrictor because bypass style regulators come with one built in. I think they just told you that incase you were trying to convert a non-bypass regulator into a bypass one.

rustbird

when you say bypass regulator do you mean one inlet and 2 outlets to feed the fogger?

also, im not going this route at all but would or is there any mechenical fuel pumps out there that can support a 300 shot???

Z28guy83

on who you go by the instructions in my nitrous express kit say 1 degree for every 50 but most people runs 2 degrees for every 50
when i do mine im gonna go with 2 degrees and make sure you go to a colder plug

88Camaro350

I thought about running a dedicated fuel system also. But everyone steered me away from it since I'm only running a 100 shot.

If you run the dedicated system make sure you have a fuel pressure safety switch in that line somewhere. It would suck is the pump didn't come on and you just sprayed in nitrous with no extra fuel.....