pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

ok well in the next couple months i will be buying all the parts to build my 350. its a 4 bolt 350, its going to the machine shop to be checked out and look for any cracks. its staying the stock bore. but my plan is to build a carbed 350 with 300-350 hp. and build the motor to be able to handle a 200+ shot of nitrous. just looking for advise on what i should do in order to to handle the nitrous on the weekends. time and money is not an issue on this project cause its not my daily driver. i want to build it right the first time. any tips?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I haven't used a big shot.
But i'd recommend a nitrous controller, that pulls timing when you're going to use it. Perhaps stage the nitrous, if you want any kind of traction.

Engine wise, i'd recommend head studs of course. Forged pistons, and WIDE ring gaps. Like .030" wide on the top. Cold plugs, tight gap. High test ignition system, maybe play with some iridium plugs - for boosted apps I've heard they work great.

I don't think you're at the level where you need to run an o-ring gasket, but it can't hurt to cut the o-ring groove into the cylinder head (or block), and use a normal gasket. It'll still make use of the o-ring groove.

A short fill is more to hold the bottom of the block together, (read - high RPM protection), you need protection for the top of the engine. So I wouldn't recommend that one in your case.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

a 200 shot is really not that big a deal. I am setting up my car for about that too. I just ordered a digital 6 MSD, a blaster coil (the blue one, around $130, I think), and a new billet MSD dizzy. For plugs, whatever. You will have to figure that out as you go. Start safe and let them foul as you find the right one, but I assume you must know that. ummm... what else.... I run the digital 6 cuz it has a timing retard feature when the N20 is activated. Oh yeah, I have a forged crank, rods and pistons. Not totaly needed, but I play it safe. As for ring gap, most people say run a BIG ring gap, wile others run normal gaps or even slightly smaller than stock. Depends who you ask, but looks like the general concensus is that big is good.

I guess thats it.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

well since money isnt an issue, then deffinately go with forged crank and h-beam rods, and a good coated forged piston, something like Mahle or JE or even Probe's are good with spray. Make sure you have a nice wide ring gap. You'll want a dedicated fuel system, which can be built for dirt cheap. Summit has an aluminum 1 gallon cell for $80 made by RCI. from the cell you can get a holley blue pump and regulator in a kit for $130. You can either use the push lock fittings and hoses or got with braided steel. you shouldnt have much more than $250-275 in the whole thing which is cheap considering the pre-built ones are $500+ from HSW or Nitro daves. Also have a good ignition system, i like the mallory 685 box as it has rev limiters, nitrous retard, and a window switch all built in and is still cheaper than the MSD digital 6 (comparable unit accept it doesnt have window switch!) And a good fuel system for the motor. If you're going with a 200 shot or bigger make sure you're running a single plane intake or a direct port sysem if you want a dual plane. Also look into cams that have about 8-10* more duration on the exhaust side than the intake, you'll make more power on spray and wont lose any on motor.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I am retarded... what is a window switch? Is that just a strange name for the switch that activates the N20?

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

a window switch turns on the nitrous at a certain RPM and then shuts it off at a Certain RPM., i beilve. but im going forged every thing, big ring gap, a good ignition, and a deicated fuel system are already in the plans. i just want it to be dependable and not blow up the first time i use it. so thats why now im gonna put the time and money into and build it right the first time.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I don't run a dedicated fuel system, but I do run a 15 gallon fuel cell for my car and a BIG fuel pump that flows WAY more then I need, so I just T-ed off of it. If you want you can check out my CD site to see how it is all mounted. Nice, clean and easy to get at everything. over 1300 miles on it now with no issues at all.

I don't have a window witch either, but I do have an arming switch, and a WOT switch mounted to the carb. I also have a purge valve. i am son going to get a heater, a ZEX plate, and a N20 gauge that I can monitor from in the driver seat.

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

you really use your nitrous with out a bottle heater? BTW i checked out your car, thats awesome one of the nicest third gens ive seen. i think im gonna stage mine to 100-150 on a WOT switch and i know its dumb but i really want another 100 on push button. instead of keeping the cold fusion nitrous kit i have now(its a wet LS1 kit) and switch it over to carb plate im gonna sell it and buy:
http://www.coldfusionnitrous.com/Pla...?CategoryID=12

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

i actually haven't run it accept with the bottle was full and at the dyno.

checked out the web site. looks like good stuff. I got my NX kit used off a board member here. I got mine for $300 shipped with a bottle and fittings, including a purge and all. Check ebay too. Some people buy kits blow the motor and want to sell ASAP. hehe.

I just want the ZEX plate because it doesn't have cross bars, and for a street car like mine, that will allow there to be a stronger signal to the carb.

pairtoe

iTrader: (4)

how big of a shot do you run?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

at the dyno shop it was a 150. But the motor can take in upwards of 300. I plan on kepping it around 200.

i also want to get this plate. I asked the seller some questions about it. Once I get them answered I think I will purchase. It is the same idea as the ZEX plate, but cheaper and with more spray points.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-N...ayphotohosting

MrDude_1

since you're planning on it, you're going to want a nitrous piston.. they tend to have the rings moved slightly to prevent fragging them..
you'll also want a large ring gap.... most piston companys can talk numbers to you about that.

obviously a strong shortblock, good headstuds, ect..


you will want a dedicated fuel system.
you will need an igntion controller of one sort or another to retard it... this can be anything from a simple X amount out when active controller, to a fully mappable digital system... either way, you'll need to pull timing.

foul your plugs and work your way back.. much safer then the other way around.. lol.

if the chassis can take the hit at high RPM, fine... but if it cant hook it on the juice, you may want a progressive controller or two stages and a delay box.
nitrous can make ALOT of torque off the line instantly, so even if you can hook a boosted car off the line, it may blow the tires off on a nitrous car.




theres really not alot to it beyond the normal saftey things.. make sure you always have fuel, never go lean, watch your plugs. ect..

if possible, get a wideband and a datalogger... YOU STILL NEED TO PULL PLUGS, but the logger will still be helpful.

going into a 300-400 shot and beyond, things are so touchy that i dont ever want to mess with it, just hanging out with thoes guys was close enough for me... they're the ones that go "oops, didnt look at the weather/pressure/whatever.. lets swapout this piston"

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous is touchy indeed, i've had my fair share of bad experiences, but they were tuning issues like you said Mr Dude. Anyone who pays attention to what there doing can use nitrous safely and benefit from it greatly. I've sprayed as big as a 2 stage 300 RWHP rated shot through a direct port and progressive controller, let me tell you, even spraying the 100 out of the hole on a drag car is tricky to get to hook up.