ZZ3Astro

Time for a new thread to document a new turbo system. I'm pulling out all stops now to get this thing where I want it. I've also upgraded some suspension parts with more to come.

I've ordered a set of stainless Hooker headers as the starting point of a full header layout with a merge pipe after the collectors. Primary concerns are that I have D-port heads and the flanges are not D-port. Different heads are not out of the picture but I'll see what the flange design is in a couple of days when they arrive. I also wouldn't be against buying D port flanges and changing them. The turbo will be located forward of the current location, dipping into the battery tray area at least some.

Question for those of you with far mounted turbos:

Should I go with solid motor mounts to save myself trouble with stress fractures or will properly placed flex pipes suffice?

Should I build a support structure that bolts to the car and the turbo?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My setup hasnt run much last year but i used treadstone turbo flex pipes and no issues so far. Goin solid mounts now however and hope they work, but leaving flex pipes there. Keep an eye on them to make sure they dont fail and close shut

I'd make a stand for the turbo to bolt to to support the weight. Bolt it to the fender well or battery tray

Capt. P

iTrader: (1)

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ZZ3Astro

I have removed the old system completely now. It will not go back on this car. I bolted up my mockup pvc flange and placed the turbo in a location I wouldn't mind using. It has a lot of potential to handle larger turbos and also leaves some room to build a cold air inlet like I had before. The outlet angle is not optimal but only gets worse by moving it further forward. The exception to that would be to fire the outlet straight down perhaps, but a filter/cold air inlet becomes very difficult if the turbo is that far forward. The downpipe is pretty clean though and there is ok room for the crossover tube. The oil return complicates things a bit though. Also I don't like the >90 degree angle into the T4 flange with such a tight radius.

I'm still thinking about these headers I ordered. I hope they are 304 stainless but suspect they are 409. If they are, I think I'm going to build a quick jig based off the driver side design and return them or sell them. With the jig it will be easy to fabricate a 304 header off the car. I just don't want to piece one together on the car in that tight driver side space! Fabricating my own also means I can use the proper D port flanges and use a 2.5" collector on that side, which makes things much easier for the crossover build.

One other thing.. if I keep these headers to sell later, I'm thinking about plugging the oil line and taking it for a spin N/A without the turbo in the way. Would be interesting to know how it runs.

lb9 GTA

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Drac0nic

I feel like we need one of those girls from the boxing rings now that we're on round 3. Thanks for not deleting the old thread like some people around here.

Can't wait to see, I'll be curious what the new headers do for you. I wouldn't think it would be those, but it's very possible that's what I get for thinking. Hopefully it'll be something that pays dividends.

ZZ3Astro

I just realized I have been here for 14 years!

I figured even if the headers don't turn out to be the fix, they will at least support more than my goal by about 50%. And better yet, they should look much better than a stock manifold and a log. I've had people walk up and see the stock manifold and walk away shaking their head.

The old system was mounted up to the old engine on the stand. I took some pictures to give everyone a better idea of how this system is laid out. What really jumps out at me is the angle and location of the crossover merge. If they had simply gusseted the merge I think it could have made a huge improvement in capacity. Even so, this manifold has been hell on the spark plug boots because of its close proximity, so no matter what a header will be a big step forward. Also this thing twists and pulls on the flange and likes to crack weld joints on the flange, so it has never sealed perfectly. Enjoy...

ZZ3Astro

- Just got off the phone with Holley (Hooker + 30 other brands now) tech support. Wow. Estimated wait time 10 minutes. Number 4 in the queue. 30 mins later I was number 2. Finally at 49 minutes I get the tech guy. Two questions for him about the 2460-2HKR headers:

1> What type of stainless are they? 304

2> What type of sealing surface.. flat or o-ring style? They use an o-ring style surface. We don't know how they fit on D-Port heads. You'd better check.

So the material is good, the sealing surface probably not. As much as I want to fast track this header install, it really looks like I will be building both sides from scratch. Time will tell..

manolis1969

ahhh my youtube buddy lol ...looks good man!

Drac0nic

I was going to ask if you'd be interested in selling the old one and if you thought it'd fit an Astro, but at the same time even with the A/C box delete I think it'd be a real stretch.

ZZ3Astro

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project89

iTrader: (1)

may i make a suggestion before u cut those up , for the money u spent u can get a bunch of 316l 90*'s and 45*s in any size u want from mcmaster carr

its what i build my v6 turbo headers out of

304 stainless is not a really good choice for a turbo header, it will work , and depending on how much u drive it and how hot u get it then let it cool will determine how long they will last before u start chasing cracks in the headers

ZZ3Astro

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project89

iTrader: (1)

316l is a grade above 316 its still not 100% for turbo builds but its 1000x better then 304

the headers on my turbo 6'er are mostly 321 but i ran out of elbows and had to order the 316L its been what 5 years now i think and they are holding up great


304 is ok to use for downpipes and ex system it will hold up in those areas and is much cheaper then the other stianless

btw heres the page u want

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-me...ttings/=o2xs7b

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Why did u go with 1 3/4" primaries? The 1 5/8" would give you more velocity with no power restrictions at this point

ZZ3Astro

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Drac0nic

The increase in raw flow vs .017 CuFt? I didn't run the #s on that but I would think it'd be pretty obvious what the answer will be.

ZZ3Astro

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Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Steve, it's coming along great so far. Get it done bro...

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Might have been worth it to pull the hood. Install flipped headers & quick fab piping to run a couple of quick tests to see if the log manifold was holding you back. Nothing fancy or pretty, just a y-pipe to the T4 flange.

ZZ3Astro

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Drac0nic

Jmo the best bet is move the bolt holes.......or return them.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Having a step like that helps with reversion in NA form. Not as much with turbos unless you get close NA type exh back pressure. That step wouldn't bother me.

Are you using solar flux or back purging the stainless when welding it?

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Subscribing. Gonna be attempting my own turbo manifolds soon enough. Love your welding table BTW

noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

I uses Colombia mandrel bends for my flanges and pipes as well I ordered their 1.625 square por by 1/2 thick flange and a t4 flange and both had the stop/start thing I took a dremel to it and removed it but it sucks we have to do that on items like these

88gunmetalgta

iTrader: (1)

Just my opinion, I'd rather file the flash off myself than pay someone else to do it. You should expect to do at least a little fit and finish work on almost everything you buy. I even had a couple of sharp edges on my pistons that I had to clean up.

RS Chris

As someone who was a CNC water jet operator for a year and a half I can tell you that the start and stop point (lead in and lead out cut) is something that was always left up to the customer or business that ordered the part to clean up. Very rarely did we ever clean them up after being cut unless it was specified in the work order. However, those leaders do look like poop. Most likely they set them up to cut 99% percent of the way and left a little bit to hold them in place, then knocked them out afterwards. You can tell by how the metal looks ripped or torn. Which doesn't really make sense why unless they wanted to keep the inner drop pieces for scrap resale, maybe. Also they cut them too fast, you can tell in the photo with the dime and the one below it has some wavyness to it. In the pic with the dime the flange is actually upside down from how it was cut on the machine. Either the operator was in a hurry or they didn't care to slow down. Its not terribly bad but I can tell it was run a little too fast.

Good luck and don't lose faith. A lot of us are pulling for you to get it finished.

ZZ3Astro

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noboostnogo

iTrader: (4)

Maybe I missed it but what style manifold are u building? Huggers or up and forward?

ZZ3Astro

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junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Using solar flux or argon purge?

ZZ3Astro

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project89

iTrader: (1)

will ur original turbo header fit a gt45???

ZZ3Astro

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Drac0nic

Nice progress on the headers, will be curious to see what happens when you stick em on.

ZZ3Astro

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freaky

NIIIICE !

TurboedTPI

Coming along nicely!

project89

iTrader: (1)

why not rotate the 90* comming off the head 45* to the left and give it a stright shot to the upper bend into the collector. doing that will save u 2 90* bends
this will of course block the bolt from being accessed with a socket but thats what they make wrenches for

ZZ3Astro

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vortec350s10

Subscribing. Looks like a good start! So far it sounds very similar to my setup. I used the same Hooker drivers side header you used for mockup. I agree the hookers don't have the thickest flanges, but haven't ever had a problem with mine for what it's worth. I made a 3/8 thick flange on the passenger side, also no leaking issues. But those thick flanges will be nice! It's interesting to see how your build is different since you are keeping A/C. What gauge primary tubing did you go with?

ZZ3Astro

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quadgoat

iTrader: (1)

Looking good so far Steve! I'm anxious to see how it all comes together! I'm sure you've seen my build thread, but I used flex pipes (from Vibrant Performance, not braided on the inside...almost made that mistake!!) in the hotside, kept poly motor mounts, and built a bracket to mount the turbo to the car. I used some pretty thick rubber to insulate the mount where it attaches to the car. Several people expressed concerns about the rubber cushion being subjected to too much heat and starting a fire, but after several pulls on the dyno I can still touch the rubber comfortably with my bare hands and I have had zero issues with it to date. I really enjoy seeing all the different ideas people have for turbo setups/hotside configuration on these cars. It just goes to show that there really is more than one way to skin a cat!!

-Paul

ZZ3Astro

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