TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Like the title says, anyone making setups for sale? Anything flea-bay or in online stores doesn't really suit me, and I don't have the tools or the "developed" skills necessary to fabricate what I need. I have the imagination, but lack the tools to learn.

If I had a 3D printer hooked to my brain that could print steel I'd be the shiz-nits.

I want to go single turbo, with the turbo placed close to where a serpentine A/C compressor sits. I'd like a log type, using my existing drivers header with a crossover that comes up to the log. Removal or whack-off the serpentine bracket as necessary.

Basically, like the bbs design single turbo setup, but with the turbo more forward and the waste gate towards the end of the log, canted off at an angle towards the corner of the car. Also, I don't like how the xs or bbs type does the #8 pipe, I think a log type would allow enough room for a 3 or 3.5 downpipe to exit between #8 pipe, heater box and firewall.

I don't need anything real fancy-pants, and I've seen some real nice log setups that "some" people claim aren't to hard to make, but are beyond my capabilities currently. I dunno how hard to incorporate a drivers side to passenger log w/merge, but I can see it plain as day in my head. Need that brain steel printer.

T4 flange, probably a gt45 or similar. Still learning/studying. My plans are .040+ 3.75 stroke 6" Rod all Lunati forged crank and I beams, block has splayed 4 bolt mains. (11sec91Z's from TGO old shortblock). Looking at a set of Wiseco forged dished slugs, but haven't ordered yet. Still planning except for the shortblock. Would like 600 hp, no more than 10lbs of boost I think. Between 8.5-9 to 1.

Any recommendations without spending a ton on custom fabrications would be appreciated. This will be my 1st turbo build, and I've got a pretty stout bottom end, I don't want/need a max-effort 1000hp motor. Needs to be street able. I've had 4 cylinder turbos, loved the boost. Still miss my old Saabs. I've a stock GTP for my daily. Love boost, never had much of it tho. I do know my shortblock is ideal for boost tho.

Thanks

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Anyone ever come across manifolds like these?

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Look interesting. Think there off of a tank or APC.

project89

iTrader: (1)

ive got a pair of twin turbo logs for sale

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I checked them out, but am thinking single turbo might be best for my first go-around. I'm still in the studying/learning/planning stage right now.

The more I read into other's builds, it's looking like doing something like this without just throwing an exhorbant amount of money requires fabrication skills. Contemplating purchasing an inexpensive flux mig just to try my hand at tacking some tubes together.

Lots to plan and learn. I'm wearing out Google.

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

I've got one for sale, a BBS designs, for serpentine WITH AC...
Crossover pipe and driver's header, $900 shipped within US.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...bo-header.html

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Like this?

-- Joe

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Yes, something like that's what I need. Looks like an altered BBS- style?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Correct. Made out of stainless. Not the prettiest thing in the world, and I have a lot of hours into it. I took it off to fix a leak in the #8 and the WG flange and just have a thing for cast iron manifolds so I went the cast route.

If you want to buy it PM me. Otherwise it's garage wall art. I have the other side, and the crossover, but you said you wanted to keep the driver side stock right?

-- Joe

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

that thing is ugly as sin, but I bet it works well... the only thing that sticks out function wise is why did you bother with the curved bit for the wastegate? A straight piece would have been easier and worked better (though I think BBS does it that way too)

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

WG had to be out of the way, otherwise it hits the housing on the turbo. I could have just merged it in lower, but I wanted the merge up top.

It is ugly as sin. Too many welds, but it worked. I like the cast better.

-- Joe

NemeSS-TyranT

iTrader: (1)

Hey man as long as it works right.
I made my first manifold from hacked up SBC block hugger header. Welded with an arc welder. Ugly as FUUU. And used a h1e 100k+ mile turbo. No intercooler and and a fmu.
But dam it ran like a raped ape.
Gotta start somewhere.

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I'm still in the planning stages right now, probably should've just waited before I made this post, but was interested if any of you turbo folks were doing side work.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I do side work @ $110 an hour.

-- Joe

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I did with stock thirdgen fbody mainfolds. You can flip the passenger side and use it on the drivers side w/ no modifications.

project89

iTrader: (1)

heres a set i just did for my car , due to a mismeasurement its really close to the prop valve but no big deal im just going to move it closert to the inner fender instead of fixing the header , dont even have to make new lines



room for a 4.5 inch downpipe on the passenger side and can prolly even fit a 5 inch dp if the need arises

1992Vortec

I just finished my xs power mainfolds and they will fit a 4'' down pipe, tight but it will fit (heater box removed). with the single turbo set up there are quite a few thing that will change everything from year to year and car to car. id suggest buying a welder and mess around with metal for a bit then once you have it half way down you could build any style you want. i know that not what you want but i just finished my single turbo build today and wouldn't feel good about selling it to someone that didn't have the tools or ability to do fab work.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Nice placement on the GT45 .

I agree with you on the selling to someone without fab tools. so many veriables with different cars and setups. There is a thread going in the LSx section. People want 100% bolt on but so many people what this or this.

Jay

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I agree. Fab is necessary in this business I've decided. I'm looking at buying a a cheap mig and messing around a bit. I've got a port-a-band, and cut-offs and such, might need to pick up some other tools but if I can just learn to tack it together neatly I can always take it to a "real" welder for finishing. Bet I've read a thousand turbo threads lately.

What's everyone's thoughts on weld-els?

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Project89 Are you doing twins? OR merging over to a single passenger downpipe?

project89

iTrader: (1)

single 76mm mm on the passenger side for the street
the setup will also do twins , and ive thought about twin 76's already but im just going to stick with the single setup . went to work on it today but the shop is full and the cars stuck outside in the rain. sometime this week ill have the entire hotsid emocked up

1992Vortec

jay- Thanks about the placement of the turbo. I spent about 4 months studying everyone's turbo step and thought i had very minimal work to do. That was far from the case once you add things like raised exhaust ports, valve covers, different flywheel sizes that changes location of the start (my personal fav on surprises lol), and ext. im really jealous of you LS set up! looks amazing/fast!

Mcmxgateman- i ended up spending as much time studying welders and ended up getting a eastwood MIG175 for 499 shipped best buy i have ever made hands down on a tool. I highly rec that welder and the best part is that it does aluminum with a spool gun. I know everyone wants beautiful stacks of dimes from a tig but for the price and ease it will do everything you could ever need to get done on you car with that tool

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

How many heat control settings does it have?

My TIG has a crank wheel so I can really dial in the right temp for the job, but my MIG only has 4 heat settings.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

infinite voltage control and wire control.

project89

iTrader: (1)

flux core sucks *** , but the harbor frieght 90/100 amp 110 mig will be fine for building headers and downpipes , best part is its friggen cheap, i got mine brand new for 60$'s

i now have a real mig so i dont really use my flux core machine for anything except small projects around the house now , but its a great starter machine.
if u can weld with flux core , u will look like a pro when u switch to a reg mig machine

next on my list is a tig machine

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

I've looked at the eastwood setup but I think for my first go I'm going to cheap out a bit, Ive seen what a lot of people can do with the more inexpensive wwelders and its given me hope. I'm a believer in the "if he can do it so can I" motto, and am thinking about trying out the medium-elcheapo harbor freight 220/110 gas/gas less.....

I'd love to get the Eastwood combo mig with the spool option AND tig/plasma cutter from Eastwood. I think they run specials for around a grand but .....

Crawl before walk, ya kno?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I use gas in the shop, but if I'm outside and it's windy I use flux core. The only problem with flux core is your welding capability is thinner for the same amperage selected.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I have a Lincoln weldpak110, and a harbor freight MIG175. The Weldpak110 has a better transformer than the chinese welder, but it doesn't have enough amperage for structural welding so I've not used it in 6+ years.

The MIG175 on the other hand will weld quite thick material, but sometimes when I'm doing sheet metal I have to be careful because I don't have as much control on the heat. Also it only has one arc pattern, so I can't do aluminum with it. (or at least, it probably wouldn't come out too good).

For 90% of the stuff you do in a shop (exhaust, frame work, roll bars, etc) the chinese mig welders (with gas) work well. But some metals, especially welding dissimilar materials or thicknesses you need to learn how to move the puddle so you don't over penetrate while at the same timing ensuring your not gluing your parts together.

My TIG/STICK is a miller, and that's just an ultra cool machine. It's high frequency start/on demand so it keeps the electrodes clean and I can AC weld aluminum, stainless, whatever.

-- Joe

1992Vortec

I wanted to give the harbor a try but have used gas welders and it's hard to look back after lol def run 220v. I'd like to know what you think of it tho please post you thoughts if you get one.

badgta

iTrader: (4)

I have come to the conclusion that if someone started making these turbo headers and manifolds that they could have a good business here at Thirdgen.

I need to talk to George and see if he would be into fabbing up some.

If so would anyone be willing to send a bbs style manifold for him to study over to make a jig off of?

Seems like they had a real good design. Why in the world they stopped making them is beyond me!

The header issues of thirdgen's seems to be solved with Dyno Don and others making stuff, only thing left really is a taillight reproduction and turbo manifold people.

Let me talk to my pal and see what he thinks. He might come up with something of his own, he is one of the best metal guys around. He is constantly building roll cages and tubbing cars out.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That already happened, it's called XS-Power/SSAC and unlike the BBS headers the welds don't look like they were done with a car battery and a coat hanger. They are also made of stainless, not mild steel, which has pros and cons.

The problem with them is they seem to only work with stock L98 heads as the #8 hits the spark plug on just about every aftermarket head on the planet.

Actually.. It's not. The wastegate only really relieves the #2 cylinder. The flange hovers the turbo right over the valvevover so anything bigger than a T76 it either hits the valve cover or the hood. They were 1 1/2" primaries which is great for a 305 or mild 350 but on a big inch motor with aftermarket heads you wouldn't cover the exhaust port. And they were very expensive.


-- Joe

87 twin turbo

what kind of manifolds are they?