changing in tank pump... is it difficult?
#1
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changing in tank pump... is it difficult?
I bought a holly 255lph in tank pump to supprt my nos setup, but haven't installed it yet. Most places want $300 to put it in so I know it's no easy job, but I'm wondering if any of you ahve any advice before I drop the tank.
Actually some simple instruction would be nice. I'm fairly competent, but I'm no master mechanic.
thanks
Actually some simple instruction would be nice. I'm fairly competent, but I'm no master mechanic.
thanks
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: TH700R4
I changed the fuel pump on my 86 trans am 305tpi. It was a pain in the @$$. You have to take off your muffler and exhaust from your cat back, then take of your sway bar and a few other small parts. Next you have to let the car run out of gas by disconnecting your fuel pump fuse in your fuse box. Then disconnect your fuel sender lines from your fuel pump. Finally you can drop the tank. Its a pain to get out, but once the tank is off you can put your new one on in a few minutes. A word of advice would be to use up as much gas as you can cause taking a tank off that is full is going to be really heavy. Its not a real hard thing to do but it can be really frustrating,. So its your call, good luck..
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Its a pain in the ***, even on the lift.
You can always cut a hole in the floor and pull the sending unit out, You'll have to cut all the hoses and splice them back in.
before anyone complains that its not "Safe", don't bother. It is.
If you must lengthen the lines tho, make sure you use "goodyear injection hose" not fuel line..
If you have to tie the lines together using pipe, make sure you buy some connections that have the lips on them, and that is 1 size smaller than the hose to ensure a tight connection.
-- Joe
You can always cut a hole in the floor and pull the sending unit out, You'll have to cut all the hoses and splice them back in.
before anyone complains that its not "Safe", don't bother. It is.
If you must lengthen the lines tho, make sure you use "goodyear injection hose" not fuel line..
If you have to tie the lines together using pipe, make sure you buy some connections that have the lips on them, and that is 1 size smaller than the hose to ensure a tight connection.
-- Joe
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anesthes, That is exactly what i did, and it is the way to go. It will save about 10 hrs worth of work! StockBastard, i can take some pics of you would like, I have my carpet up in the back, and you can see exactly where to make the cut. There are 4 third gen's in my area that have benefited from this trick. 2 of then are board members, none of them have had any problems.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Its pretty easy to do it the proper way and not tear up your car, heres how:
1. Raise rear of car and support just in front of LCA bolts with stands.
2. Put 1 jack under each lower shock mount and remove lower shock bolts, pull shock stud out of mount.
3. Remove swaybar to chassis end link bolts.
4. Remove PHR bolts and chassis brace.
5. Unbolt catback at the cat.
6. Lower the rear using the two jacks, being careful not to go too far and endanger the rear brake line.
7. Remove tailpipe supports in rear and you can now pull the entire catback out the rear with the axle lowered.
8. Remove fuel tank/muffler heat shield.
9. Disconnect fuel lines.
10. Remove 2 fuel tanks support strap bolts.
11. Remove fuel tank, main pita step, usually requires bending of the filler neck.
1. Raise rear of car and support just in front of LCA bolts with stands.
2. Put 1 jack under each lower shock mount and remove lower shock bolts, pull shock stud out of mount.
3. Remove swaybar to chassis end link bolts.
4. Remove PHR bolts and chassis brace.
5. Unbolt catback at the cat.
6. Lower the rear using the two jacks, being careful not to go too far and endanger the rear brake line.
7. Remove tailpipe supports in rear and you can now pull the entire catback out the rear with the axle lowered.
8. Remove fuel tank/muffler heat shield.
9. Disconnect fuel lines.
10. Remove 2 fuel tanks support strap bolts.
11. Remove fuel tank, main pita step, usually requires bending of the filler neck.
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#8
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Yeah, that sounds real easy
Here is how to do it without even having to jack up the car/remove parts/exhaust/bend the filler/etc... just roll back the carpet, use a nibbler or an air hammer with a cutting blade. On the top of the hump in the center, cut the sheet metal, fold it back, col the lines after they make the 90*, pull the sending unit and pump out. While you have the unit out replace the pump, and trim about 1" off the tubes (this allows for the f/i hoses for the splice) reassemble useing fuel injection hose and clamps to connect your lines. Fold the flap back down, I used 200mph tape to make a seal (duct tape ), lay the carpet back over, and you are done. This process should take about 1.5-2 hrs if you have the supplies at hand. Here is a pic of where i cut my car for this modification. I have an external pump, so excuse the bulk heads and blue hoses. Now, you can make an educated decision on how you want to do it. I hope this info has helped. If you have any questions, just ask.
Here is how to do it without even having to jack up the car/remove parts/exhaust/bend the filler/etc... just roll back the carpet, use a nibbler or an air hammer with a cutting blade. On the top of the hump in the center, cut the sheet metal, fold it back, col the lines after they make the 90*, pull the sending unit and pump out. While you have the unit out replace the pump, and trim about 1" off the tubes (this allows for the f/i hoses for the splice) reassemble useing fuel injection hose and clamps to connect your lines. Fold the flap back down, I used 200mph tape to make a seal (duct tape ), lay the carpet back over, and you are done. This process should take about 1.5-2 hrs if you have the supplies at hand. Here is a pic of where i cut my car for this modification. I have an external pump, so excuse the bulk heads and blue hoses. Now, you can make an educated decision on how you want to do it. I hope this info has helped. If you have any questions, just ask.
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
It took me a whole hour doing it my way sooooo..... I think i'll keep from hacking my car up except where needed (T56 )
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As you can see, my feed and return lines have been crimped, and welded. I have installed 90* bulkheads, and aluminum lines for a pickup, but you jet the idea of where to cut, and you can see my f/i hoses spliced in.
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I think you are lying! You are telling us you can remove and install a catback system in 1/2 hr, and you can dissasemble and reassemble the suspension in 15 min. You can drop the tank, change the pump reinstall the tank in 15 min. NAME THAT TUNE!
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
2 bolts in PHR, 4 in upper brace, 2 at the cat, 1 on the tailpipe support, 2 swaybar, 2 shock, 4 heat shield, 2 tank, and the lines, if you cant do that in the 2 hours it took you to hack your car, you shouldnt be near it, my heat sheild wasnt in, lines werent connected since i removed them to put full stainless and the catback was unbolted at the cat, wow an extra 15 min, hour and 15
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Interesting. I actually thought about using the hole method before I posted, but wasn't sure where to cut. I've already "hacked" holes in my car, (to run nitrous line) so that part doesn't bother me.
Good stuff,
thanks
Good stuff,
thanks
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Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 396ci LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen rear with 4.10s/Eaton posi
Yeah...sounds and looks great to me. Let's hack a 3'x2' square in our cars...because we're lazy. THEN...we'll just seal 'er up with duct tape.
Wow...what an engineering genious we have here.
I think I'd rather spend the supposed, "extra" few minutes, and do it right...than hack a hole in the floor...cause I was lazy. Yeah, sounds good to me...
Eric
Wow...what an engineering genious we have here.
I think I'd rather spend the supposed, "extra" few minutes, and do it right...than hack a hole in the floor...cause I was lazy. Yeah, sounds good to me...
Eric
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yeah, I really don't know what i'm doing. I just like giving bad advice. I tell you what, let's all post some pics of our cars, and engine compartments. I'll get out to the garage tomorrow and take some pics of the car. But for now, here is a recent pic of my engine compartment...bare with me,it may take a couple of weeks to throw the rest together, I am in the process of hacking some pipes up for the intercooler..
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I hope so too, I've got The parachute held together with it too. I didn't feel like welding a chute mount to the frame, so I'm using pop rivets and duct tape to hold it on. I feel the duct tape alone would do the job, but i used some pop rivets to seal the deal... You have to do some things right
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Yea i'd like to see how well that helps when some idiot hits your car, heres a pic of the inside of my 94 just to give you an idea, i think i'll keep my unibody car 1 piece.....
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Well i dont think we were comparing who's car is faster, and nobody said yours wasnt fast, more like you got a stupid idea, to save a whole hour over what it would take realistically (3 hours) doing it my way, heres a lil of mine, and I believe eric's got something similar up his sleeve, and a procharger kit sitting around so..... we definetly aint :hail: in you
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Smart reply, that was a pic from my 94' which some 70 yr. old idiot plowed thru and then it spun into a phone pole, completely his fault, damn you really sound smart now, with every post i seem to be more drawn to take advice from you ...... NOT
#28
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
The book gives me like 6 hours to change a FP on a Firebird/Camaro doing it the "right way", and realisticly it takes about 4 doing it on the lift, if you take your time and don't bend the filler neck. I've done it that way, infact on my Formula I did it that way.. But I normally do it the other way.
The argument about making a hole in the back of the car is really irrelevent, and you don't use duct tape to seal it, you use seam sealer.
-- Joe
The argument about making a hole in the back of the car is really irrelevent, and you don't use duct tape to seal it, you use seam sealer.
-- Joe
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StockBastard, nice car, I am sorry your post turned into a pissing match. I believe you were looking for options and information. That is what I was trying to offer, instead you got arguing and opinions. GMHTP magazine did an article on a third gen pump change that was very informative. It was done at a shop, on a lift, by a very reputable shop.I recall it takink a full day, but you may want to do a search and gather some info. Again, I apologize
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Car: 2000 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
I dont have a hole cut in my floor. Its not my preferance but I wont knock anyone for doing it. Everyone has their way.
However, if you can do a tank drop, swap and install in 2 hours, DOING EVERYTHING THAT THE REST OF US NORMALLY WOULD DO then you are a ***.
Ive had the tank out of my car 4 or 5 times. Its down to bare bones in my car. The exhaust is easy to remove now, the bolts have been off the car so often, they are not rusted and its still about a 4 hour job for me.
Ive done one in an 85 Sport coupe and my old 89 Formula.
A stock run of the mill thirdgen that has not been taken apart, is NOT coming apart and back together in 2 hours. The exhasut alone can take 2 hours to get disconnected and slid out of the way. or what about panhard bar bolts or LCA bolts. Ever heard of rust? It sucks. Sometimes even an airgun wont remove them. Ive personally twisted two panhard bar botls in two because they were stuck and rusted so bad. Not fun.
So before anyone here goes questioning people's abilities, look at what is involved.
And if anyone questions Don's credibility again, Ill hit them with a ball bat. lol
Oh yeah, and I also dont know what Im doing..
However, if you can do a tank drop, swap and install in 2 hours, DOING EVERYTHING THAT THE REST OF US NORMALLY WOULD DO then you are a ***.
Ive had the tank out of my car 4 or 5 times. Its down to bare bones in my car. The exhaust is easy to remove now, the bolts have been off the car so often, they are not rusted and its still about a 4 hour job for me.
Ive done one in an 85 Sport coupe and my old 89 Formula.
A stock run of the mill thirdgen that has not been taken apart, is NOT coming apart and back together in 2 hours. The exhasut alone can take 2 hours to get disconnected and slid out of the way. or what about panhard bar bolts or LCA bolts. Ever heard of rust? It sucks. Sometimes even an airgun wont remove them. Ive personally twisted two panhard bar botls in two because they were stuck and rusted so bad. Not fun.
So before anyone here goes questioning people's abilities, look at what is involved.
And if anyone questions Don's credibility again, Ill hit them with a ball bat. lol
Oh yeah, and I also dont know what Im doing..
#31
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
AGAIN we arent reading before speaking/typing I said 2 hours is a realistic time for someone to remove it, so it only takes me an hour cause its been out a few times before and my bolts arent rusted, and a few things were already unbolted, either way hacking a hole like that in a unibody car is just plain STUPID.
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