88Camaro350

I just ordered a set of dropzone lowering springs. When I add these I will be replacing the bushings with poly ones.

I work at advance so I can get a good good deal on TRW suspension parts. 194$ and I can get all the tie-rod ends, adjusters, idler arm, center drag link, and the ball joints. Its 3:30am I may have missed something lol.

I hope with all this I can get my car handling like it was meant to. Right now it sways pretty bad. 127k on the front suspension.

My question is:
Are TRW suspension parts worth the money or should I spend twice as much and get moog? Remember that I also have a lifetime warrenty if I get the TRW.

Oh and when installing front end parts will I need to torque everything down? or just tighten everything? I have never really tore into anything like this before.

waltersb

Get the #'s for torquing the front end....

I know the front struts require massive amounts of torque where they connect to the lower control arm... 202 FT. lbs for mine... (I looked it up)

JDF-Z28

I swear by Moog parts. I also replaced my strut bearing plates when I rebuilt my front suspension. Oh yeah, always use a torque wrench on suspension parts.

Blown87

iTrader: (1)

I just rebulit my suspension. I used Moog suspension components, energy suspension bushings, Eibach springs, and Lakewood struts. I was amazed at the difference in handling. I would say spend the extra money and go top line all the way, you will be happy when you are done.

88Camaro350

I really doubt I would notice any difference between TRW and MOOG parts. I know NAPA sells both. The moog may be alittle better but I'll probably try the TRW stuff because I get a really good deal on it.

What all has to be torqued?

BTW I replaced struts before and I know I didn't torque them that much.

Blown87

iTrader: (1)

Wheel Hub Spindle Nut: 12 lb. ft.
Stabilizer Shaft-
Link Nut: 16 lb. ft
Bracket Bolt: 39 lb. ft.
Front suspension strut-
Upper nut: 46 lb. ft.
Lower nut: 203 lb. ft.
Control Arm Pivot bolt/nut: 66 lb. ft.
Ball Joint Stud Nut: 83 lb. ft.
Crossmember Bolt: 118 lb. ft.
Strut Upper Mount Bolt: 18 lb.ft.
Crossmember Brace Bolt: 55 lb. ft.
Caliper Mounting Bolt: 38 lb. ft.
Lower Control Arm Bumper Nut: 21 lb.ft.

There is a torque spec for every fastener on the car, I don't know that I would concern myself with each one.

88Camaro350

thanks guy wasnt expecting that kind of response.

hope to have the project underway next weekend.

waltersb

yah, I've discovered that I manage to torque my lug nuts pretty close each time without a torque wrench...

have a 1/2 socket with a 12" or so handle, and I pull hard and when I've gone back later to check it with the torque wrench, 4/5 at least were very close to 85 foot pounds... which is about what you are supposed to torque them too..

KagA152

iTrader: (5)

tie rod adjuster clamp nut - 14 lb ft
outer tie rod to spindle nut - 35 lb ft
centerlink to pitman arm nut - 35 lb ft
idler arm to frame nut - 52 lb ft
centerlink to idler arm nut - 35 lb ft
pitman arm to pitman shaft nut - 185 lb ft
inner tie rod to centerlink nut - 40 lb ft

buy one of these , itll be the best money you spend on your car

bes217

If you go through PST you can get all the bushings(polygraphite), outer tie-rods, and ball joints for 159. A center link is $45, and the inner tie rods are $35 each, idler arm is $40.

I dont know if the figure you gave was for the hard parts only or if it included the bushings as well. If you price did not include bushings then this may be a better way to go. PST uses moog parts as well.

88Camaro350

The price I gave didn't include bushings.

I priced:
2 inner tie-rod ends
2 outter tie-rod ends
2 adjuster sleeves
1 idler arm
1 center drag link
2 lower ball joints

The price was over 240$ but with my employee discount it was 194$

I am gonna order a set of solid adjusters from colemanracing.com instead of the stock ones.

I am gonna add dropzone lowering springs and new KYB gr2 struts. I already bought the shocks but they are a few years old so I am gonna go ahead and exchange them at work and get new ones.

I'm probably gonna add a wonder bar from TDS to. And poly bushings.

I'm hoping with all this and my new kuhmo ecsta 255/50/16s that the car will handle better than it was meant to off the show room floor.

I'm eventually gonna add a set of subframe connectors too....damn camaros are so much money lol.

bes217

I have the GR-2 struts and shocks and they are good for the money. My car really handled well after I put them on, especially after the suspension rebuild. I have a wonderbar and it helps out a little. Probably more than I realize, though.

You should check out ebmiller's website with all the pics and directions he has for the front end rebuild. I wish I had known about when I did my car. Also make sure that you have an internal spring compressor.

I would get SFC's before anything else. I wish that I had.

JDF-Z28

Has anyone but me replaced thier strut bearing plates? (Upper strut mounts) They will make a difference...
Suspension: All Moog front end,Eibach pro kit springs, Spohn steering brace, Energy suspenion front lower control arm bushings, Prothane tranny mount, ES torque arm bushing, Spohn 4130cromo LCA's w/ poly, Spohn 4130 adjustable panhard bar w/poly, drives like a slot car

bes217

just see my sig for suspension mods.


Oh I almost forgot.........handles better than a slot car.

88Camaro350

I am going to get SFC soon also. Main reason I am rebuilding the front suspension now is because it has 130k on it...its all stock. Besides the struts. It is starting to handle funny and I do not think it is holding alignments right. Brand new tires so I am gonna redo it all before I ruin my tires again.

I'm not trying to build a road racing car or anything. I'd just like it to handle as good or maybe a hair better than it did off the showroom floor.