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What subframes with big block swap headers

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Old 08-13-2006, 03:06 PM
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What subframes with big block swap headers

I need to get some sub frames and im not sure what ones to get because my headers come right out on the area that the sub frames would weld to. So if anyone that has a bigblock and connectors let me know. thanks Mike
Old 08-16-2006, 09:09 PM
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Anyone?
Old 08-17-2006, 08:04 AM
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Car: 83 CAMARO 468BBC
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I'm with you on that one I have just asked the same question I have a 468BBC with hooker super comps and I can't find SFC's to fit ( I have bought 2 sets ) Have you had an answer yet or any ideas I'll let you know if i hear anything but i've been trying to solve this for quite a time now.
Old 08-17-2006, 09:59 PM
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Ya i still havent heard anything from anybody. Dont know what im going to do.
Old 08-17-2006, 10:42 PM
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Wish I could give you an answer, but based on what I'm going through I can offer what may be a partial solution.

I have SLP 1-3/4" headers coming off of my small-block, & as luck would have it, the Y-pipe extends far enough to the edge of the car that my Hotchkis SFCs won't fit on the pass. side. Took it to a shop to have them welded on, & after a fair bit of puzzling & head-scratching, the decision was made to remove the ends from the passenger side SFC & acquire a length of rectangular steel that's just as long, but somewhat less wide, so that I can have the SFCs without compromising the Y-pipe. (The new piece of steel would have double the wall thickness in order to make up for the original lost piece.) I'm thinking that I may add a bit of cross-bracing as well, similar to the "diamond-style" SFCs that are out there..

I guess that basically what I'm saying is that you may need to fab something up, maybe after beginning with a "normal" set of SFCs.

Good luck, I hope that this helps a little bit...
Old 08-19-2006, 09:21 AM
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Ya thats what im thinking, i will have to get something special made.
Old 08-19-2006, 01:22 PM
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Car: A Portly 85 Z28
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the hookers are dumping right where every subframe connector ends except the alstons at top down solutions..

now I did not use them but I`m thinking it would be the only one you could bolt or weld on without compromising the header path.... routing the exhaust will be another issue becasue these connectors connect up at the crossmember area and run at an angle out to the lower control arm perches, ground clearence will be niel with a full exhaust of course.

Other options I looked into were and if you have the nerve and time, the comp enginnering ones that run from the crossmember straight back to the rear subframes, these require you to channel out the floor so that the connector runs straight from front to back....this is probably one of the best routes to take if your looking to keep a full exhaust, I have a friend who runs an 82 camaro w/ a 427 he uses these, his seat did not fit back in correctly after the install.

Last option is what was said above, custom. This is the route I decided to take, I wanted the subs on the pinch rail, I ran 2x2 steel tubing from the lower control arm mount as far foward as possible on both sides, the passenger side near where the cat conveter used to be was a perfect place to 45 degree another 2x2 tube off the main tube and run over to the crossmember of the trans tunnel to join the front to back. The drivers side I ended up using a 1/2 x 4 x 14 steel plate to cross over the top of the exhaust to join up to the crossmember subframe. I must say for less than 50$ in material and less than a days work the custom connectors were well worth it, car launches straight on slicks and no more heavy twist from acceleration. I fabbed this around a full dual 3 inch exhaust.. I`ll be testing out a new 14.1 496 BBC shortly the 750 or more HP will tell me how well they really work
Old 08-19-2006, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by V8Rumble
Wish I could give you an answer, but based on what I'm going through I can offer what may be a partial solution.

I have SLP 1-3/4" headers coming off of my small-block, & as luck would have it, the Y-pipe extends far enough to the edge of the car that my Hotchkis SFCs won't fit on the pass. side. Took it to a shop to have them welded on, & after a fair bit of puzzling & head-scratching, the decision was made to remove the ends from the passenger side SFC & acquire a length of rectangular steel that's just as long, but somewhat less wide, so that I can have the SFCs without compromising the Y-pipe. (The new piece of steel would have double the wall thickness in order to make up for the original lost piece.) I'm thinking that I may add a bit of cross-bracing as well, similar to the "diamond-style" SFCs that are out there..

I guess that basically what I'm saying is that you may need to fab something up, maybe after beginning with a "normal" set of SFCs.

Good luck, I hope that this helps a little bit...

I have SLPs for dual cats and hotchkiss subframes. It was an easy fix to get the pipes to fit. just had to move them both over slightly to the drivers side. Might be different if you have the single cat headers.
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