lizardkng

Ok, so Ive dropped a 350 into the old 305 hole...and Ive heard that you really need to get some SFCs put into a car with T-tops when running a 350 because of the additional body flex, and lack of structural integrity because of the t-tops.

My question is, how long can one wait before installing the SFC's?

The whole project has been quite expensive, and not being independently wealthy...the SFC's are just gonna have to wait...

How much damage gets done with T-tops but without SFC's?

What type of damage can happen?

And would "babying" it around until I can get SFC's actually help to not do any damage?

Additionally, I had a shift kit in the car before the engine swap, and it would shift quite hard already.

Thank you!

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

How radical is the 350? If its putting out torque that is equal to, or just slightly more than what the stock L98 would put out, you should be fine as long as you go easy on it. In fact, I'd bet you would even be okay with a WILD 350 as long as you BABY IT. Keep in mind that you could get a 350 with T-tops from the factory 87-89, and maybe 90, I'm not sure.

So either way, just baby the thing until you get some SFCs.

AlkyIROC

My 87 t-top car originally had a 5.7TPI engine. It never had SFC until I bought it to make into a race car.

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

They're not as "absolutely necessary" as lots of people like to say they are. Sure, they make a difference, and help the car a lot, but I wouldn't say they are vital until you are pretty decently modded, or beat on the car on a regular basis. Minor cracks CAN form over time. My T top car has been putting out under 200 horsepower for 170,000 miles and I have a small crack under the weatherstripping where the driver side B pillar meets the roof.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I made probably 100 passes at the track before putting some in because I was bored. Along with the track passes, lots and lots of miles on the road with the 350.

stevemicaelo

when i first dropped in my 383 I drove it for about 2 months without SFC's,
and it dynoed 503 torque at the wheels but i could also jack up just behind the front wheel and the rear would/will still come up just as far

lizardkng

Ah...I was under the impression that some fairly severe body damage could take place in the t-top areas if you didnt get them...

I appreciate the input...

Its just a stock 350 with a shiftkit. I wont ever turn it into a racecar, but I will probably work on some light mods over time.

Thank you folks.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Yea. I got a stocker L98 with my T-Tops, and I beat on it on a regular basis. Car still sits even. Gonna get some SFC's because I do plan on turning it into a road warrior, but it's not yet, so I can take my time.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

My car, originally an LG4 that had been driven fairly sedately, developed cracks over the drip rails--this is a coupe. I've always maintained that SFC's aren't a mod, they're a necesssity .

JamesC

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

SFC definitely help, took a lot of the creaks and groans out of the car like when pulling into a driveway.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

I remember back when I had my 91 RS Hardtop 305 TBI, and traded it for my current 92 Z28 convertible. One of my first impressions about driving the Z was how much stiffer the whole car felt. And this was going from a hardtop car to a convertible! Both cars were basicly stock, no SFC.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

The verts have stock SFC's. That's why they need different aftermarket SFC's.

Randy92Z

iTrader: (3)

Yea I know, but the point of my post was to point out that my 92 convertible (weakest 3rd gen chassis) felt stiffer/more rigid to me than my 91 hardtop car (stongest 3rd gen chassis). The 91 RS had the 16" wheels so it was suppost to have the Z28 suspension.