STRUT removal BS!!
#1
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Car: z-28 x2
Engine: 355ci and 305ci
Transmission: th350 and th350
STRUT removal BS!!
took off the upper strut nut from the driver side, was very easy comparing to the passenger side,that needed a grinder.
but the strut wont come out of the upper strut mount, i used the biggest hammer i got and and smashed it as hard as i could.
i jazcked the car up and took the wheel off, so gravity was on my side, but the strut is still stuck inside that bearing from the strut mount.
do i forget something?
but the strut wont come out of the upper strut mount, i used the biggest hammer i got and and smashed it as hard as i could.
i jazcked the car up and took the wheel off, so gravity was on my side, but the strut is still stuck inside that bearing from the strut mount.
do i forget something?
#2
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
the strut is under pressure, its not easly to remove. unbolt it from the spindle first and it will come right out, just be sure that you have the a-arm supported
#3
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Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
I just had to grind my drive side strut bolt off . By hitting the top of the strut I also killed the strut retainer bearing . Once you unbolt the spindle it should come right out .
#4
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: GMPP 350 HO w/TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt w/3.73s
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
not sure if you already have or not, but you may have to disconnect the sway bar in order to allow the control arm to fall enough to make the strut come free.
brian
brian
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
Unless the strut is completely done for, it wont exactly be easy to compress. As mentioned I would pop the spindle off the ball joint or unbolt the strut from the spindle and give it a shot. Just make sure you support the A-arm. (as //<86TA>\\ already mentioned)
The only thing I can imagine is that it's just rusted in there. They really should just fall out.
Be careful screwing around with anything involving that front coil spring! It will kill you if you aren't on your toes.
The only thing I can imagine is that it's just rusted in there. They really should just fall out.
Be careful screwing around with anything involving that front coil spring! It will kill you if you aren't on your toes.
#6
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Car: z-28 x2
Engine: 355ci and 305ci
Transmission: th350 and th350
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
ill drill a hole in the gas-filled shock to get the pressure out...
j/k!
il try get it off the spindle, because the 2 big bolts from the shock are so darn tight!
thanks for helping out this lonely dutch camaro-owner
j/k!
il try get it off the spindle, because the 2 big bolts from the shock are so darn tight!
thanks for helping out this lonely dutch camaro-owner
#7
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
I did mine a few months ago. I started at the bottom and went up (un-bolting that is). Sway bar, spindle, brake lines, then the bolt on the top. Just make sure you have ahold of it, or it may fall...don't ask how I know.
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#8
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Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
Get the car off the ground and unhook the sway bar and brake line.
The spring will pull the strut out.
You dont have the jack stand on the a arm do you??
I have never heard of such and have changed my struts enough times to wear our a good set of tools.
The spring will pull the strut out.
You dont have the jack stand on the a arm do you??
I have never heard of such and have changed my struts enough times to wear our a good set of tools.
#9
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Car: z-28 x2
Engine: 355ci and 305ci
Transmission: th350 and th350
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
no, i dont have the jack under the a arm and i have the swaybar disconnected,i ts just ridiculous that after hammering HARD on the strut it sill doesnt move a micromilimetre
#10
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Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
Grinded it flush with the top of the bearing , then drill the center out . Will take some time . Or you can replace the strut bearing plate and just pull the hole thing though the top and toss it out . You can probley use new bearing plates any way . Good luck
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Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
This makes no sense to me...
When the strut does come out, what is going to catch the spring?
Has all of this hammering mushroomed the cylinder making it impossible to slip through the bearing?
I assume that the wheeels are off and the brake rotors and a arms ar dangling in the air and that you have a rope of chain throught the front springs. Is this correct?
If so make sure that the strut body is not caught on the unibody where it flairs out to accomidate the the srping perch. This can happen.
When the strut does come out, what is going to catch the spring?
Has all of this hammering mushroomed the cylinder making it impossible to slip through the bearing?
I assume that the wheeels are off and the brake rotors and a arms ar dangling in the air and that you have a rope of chain throught the front springs. Is this correct?
If so make sure that the strut body is not caught on the unibody where it flairs out to accomidate the the srping perch. This can happen.
#12
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Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Re: STRUT removal BS!!
If you need a pass side strut plate I have one in good shape .You can have it ,just cover the shipping.
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