Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

Well today I found a IROC at pick a part and grabbed these two things ... Will they mount up since there is talk of 1982's being different in how the sway bar was mounted or something to that effect today I will find the answer to will it fit.
This 1982 isn't a WS-6 or a WS-7 so it handles much like a taxi-cab LOL probably a base level suspension car originally. Imagine 14 inch wheels were originally on this car and yes they were the N-89 turbo cast's. The sway bar from the IROC is a monster compared to whats on the car now .... funny thing is this IROC sway bar is remarkably light. If all goes well I am going back to pick a part tomorrow and grab other braces off this car that don't appear on my car and probably the steering box as well.

My steering has the feel of a old caddilac and 1/4 turn literally doesn't do much. I've had a WS-6 Trans Am and the difference between the two cars was incredible. This 1982 corners like a semi sometimes pickup trucks can out run me in corners, pretty sad huh I have driven many a 82 camaro's and firebirds but this one has got to be the worst handling Trans Am I have ever seen.
Have any of you ever seen a 82 Trans Am that wasn't at least a WS-7 my option sheet doesn't even show any upper level suspension option. Yes it is a real Trans Am as well. It seems to be an early 82 since it came with a flat hood but it's common belief you either got WS-7 or WS-6 my VIN ends with 511xxx so has anyone ever seen a 82 trans am without the optional WS-6/WS-7?

Oh well back to the topic today you will know if 89 IROC sway bar and wonderbar will bolt up to a 1982.
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Oh and by the way .... if it doesn't mount it will be sold paid 50 for it all

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

Well, after 30 minutes I got the sway bar and the wonderbar on. theres a couple tabs you have to bend on the sway bar to frame brackets and you have to play with the bolts to get them started but a 89 IROC sway bar and wonder bar will fit with very minor work.
Was there a difference? Unbelievable difference is all that describes this modification 110% better cornering steering doesn't feel as lazy either. So tomorrow I will be going to strip more braces off that IROC and also snag the steering box. Might even grab the 9 bolt rear from it for higher gears.

At any rate here are some pictures, my stock sway bar is on the right, and a little side note I pulled my 84 WS-6 front sway bar out of the garage to compare as well and the IROC bar is slightly larger then even that. And my original sawy bar is considerably heavier then the IROC bar as well.
Simply an awsome upgrade for early cars !!!!!!!

coolram62

iTrader: (2)

I've done similar mods to my '83 Z28.She had a 32mm solid front sway bar which I replaced with a 36mm hollow front bar.This is the weight difference you feel,if you note the holes at the ends of the bar indicate hollow bars(a hollow 34mm bar can be found too).The problem you noted in mounting the layer sway is '82s sway bar brackets are unigue in thier shape and hole alignment.I've also installed a 24mm rear bar in place of the original 21mm version - both solid.Go to new poly swat bar bushings,if you haven't already,and you'll find even more improvement.

I also installed a "wonderbar" but the TDS version,which is a big improvement over the factory IMHO.

Go over the IROC's drivetrain for anything you think you can use if the prices are reasonable.You might even luck out and find an aluminum driveshaft.

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

I am going to be grabbing the springs, steering box, k-member to frame rail braces, the cowl braces. I was always under the impression z-28's and trans am's always got urethane sway bar bushing, my car had rubber ones.

I might also pull this IROC's a-arms, trailing arms, panhard bars etc and put urethane bushings in them then put them on my car. This way my cars isn't down for long periods just a matter of swapping out the parts.

I thought about a aftermarket wonder bar but I figure a stock one is better then what my car had. I took some corners in the car today that I normally couldn't go around over 40mph and took them with ease at 50mph. So I'm just going to keep adding stuff to the car. Frame connectors are my next step
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Think I'm also going to stop and buy some metal and build my own strut tower brace. I have a edelbrock TPI brace that I can use for basic dimensions but build it for my TBI engine.

OkanaganIroc

Did you grab the rear swaybar as well? That'll help you a bit in the corners as well.

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

I already have a WS-6 rear sway bar in the back..... Today though I grabbed the A-arms, trailing arms, panhard, and other bar, coil springs and any other chassis stiffening braces I could find, and the steering box .... I am going to order a complete urethane kit for my car and install them in the parts I bought then swap them into my car so it's not down so long.

This should get my car up to handling of an IROC or WS-6. Much as I'de like 16 inch wheels I like the look of the N-24 wheels to much and I like the stock appearance of the car ..... so that will be the only area it's lacking

I honestly don't mind enhancing the car in performance/handling area's but I am going to keep it stock looking.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Why bother? Aren't these the same pieces your car came equipped with? Personally, I wouldn't swap in 18-year old springs, especially when replacement are relatively cheap.

JamesC

coolram62

iTrader: (2)

JamesC makes an excellent point on the springs,panhard bar,A-arms and trailing arms.Unless you just want to refinish these parts(strip,paint,new bushings)to have to replace your original pieces.If you want improved handling then aftermarket panhard bar and lower control arms are the way to go(keep your old ones as who knows about the future).You could use the extra A-arm set for rebuild then it's just a swap out for your old ones.

One thing on the brakes if you got them off the IROC the brake lines will have metric threads.Your '82 has SAE threads(about the only SAE threaded parts on the '82-'83).

Also if you stay with the 14" wheels,if I understand correctly,you'll certainly be limiting yourself in choice of tires.It's just a thought.

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

My car has metric lines .... converted all the lines when I put the 84 disc brake rear end in the car. and my N-24's are 15"

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

James

Because anything is better then what my car has on it. I really dont want tubular trailing arms and panhard rods. I don't even remotely drive my car hard enough to warrant the cost of them. I mainly got the IROC bars because my originals are bent. I'm not looking to race porsches with the car around corners, I just want the car to handle like a IROC is all and not like a taxi-cab ..... If you ever drove this car you would understand what I mean by that. I go through this canyon area alot with the car and honestly my car scares me going around some corners and most pickup trucks go faster around them then what my car can ..... This car feels more like a cadillac in the corners ... So to answer your question I believe any of these IROC parts are better then what now on my car

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

New springs, struts and shocks will impress you where handing is concerned.

JamesC

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

has new shocks and struts on it and the rear springs were replaced 5 years ago. I would think if the front springs were a problem I'de notice the car were sagging but it doesnt. I bought the car 15 years ago approx. when it had 66,000 miles on it and it handling was a poor back then as it is today.

Right now the car is at about 105,000 .... I see your point though for new springs and I will look into the price of them.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

Is there a way you can update these photo links ......please

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Putting 16" wheels on won't betray your car.... and it will put a smile on your face.
I shed 8 pounds going to a hollow 36 and aftmkt wonderbar....
Good work on keeping those good parts useful!

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

I was able to fit a umi wonderbar on my 82 ...hurray!! Here are some pictures.

The only issue I see is that the welded washers might be too small. Easy fix.