84redta

iTrader: (34)

Is this ok to run?? Am i going to run into any problems and should i replace it. Now when i say should i, i don't mean should i just replace it because it's bent and cheaper to replace than to work on it. I want to know if it's alright that i fix it (presumably heat, some banging, and bending back to shape), or should i get one at a scrap yard from cars that have been sitting out there for countless years. $100 isn't a lot to spend on a new one i know but i'm trying to do budget at this point. Just seeing if this is ok to run as is or better if i fix it and bring it back to shape. I was dropping the gas tank to change the fuel pump when i noticed it. The ends are soaked in PB-Blast...there is nothing leaking back there just so u guys know. I can get more pictures if needed. Thanks all!
Jon
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panhard...excuse me i can't spell, lol.

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

NO thats not OK to run! You make a hard right turn and that thing is going to want to buckle inward, this could be catastrophic. Even now, with it bent, the rear end is slightly off center. If your desperate go pull one from a yard just so you can feel safe about driving around, but if you want to spend any more than that buy an aftermarket one that comes with poly bushings already installed.

Don't try to fix it either. The integrity of the metal has already been compromised. Heating and bending will only make this worse, no matter how "straight" you can get it. Not safe.

JohnZ28

There is a good chance your rear differential is off to one side because that bend makes the bar shorter in length. I think I would try and find a good used one that had good bushings.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the insight. A lot of people just jump to replacing things instead of fixing things, so thats why i pushed that aspect first. Once i posted it i started thinking how hard it was actually going to be being that is part of the allignment of the rear axle. Any suggestions on something relatively cheap, good function, and it is less then $100 or really close. I haven't checked shipping of classic industries but that started slightly above $100. Also aren't poly bushings known for squeeking and being a pain? This is only going to be a stock setup so i don't know if i need anything "heavy duty" as poly bushings suggest even though that seems to be all the new bars are equiped with. Either way, open to any suggestions. Thanks guys!

83Chevy__Camaro

go to amazon and get the edelbrock one

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I'd suggest this one. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=EDL%2D5202

No, poly bushings don't "squeak" and they aren't "a pain". That's some kind of "old wive's tale", probably started by somebody that wanted to make his living changing out rubber ones. They'll be fine, you won't even know the difference (except your car's rear won't feel so squirrely any more).

84redta

iTrader: (34)

LOL, ok thanks, sounds good. I'll go check out amazon.

Azrael91966669

or you could get one from any junk yard for 5-10 bucks

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Hit the JY then as suggested.

JamesC

1985WS6transam

iTrader: (4)

I would agree that the poly bushings arent "a pain." But why do mine squeak? I torqued them correctly with the suspension fully loaded... Any suggestions?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

they squeek because they weren't lubed when put together.

kcb37

You are supposed to lube polly bushings. Also they last longer, and give a much firmer feel.
Even for something stock they are better.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

yea i'm leaning towards the aftermarket panhard, but as i was taking out the support bar above the panhard that connects the rear framing, one of the heads of the bolts broke off...so now i'm getting weary of trying to drop the rear to get to the gas tank at this point...

kanmudhog

iTrader: (4)

I put a 4 " lift on a jeep from Wisconsin once , RUST BUCKET , get some good penitrant ( sea foam is ok ) spray and soak , before you try and turn the bolt take a hammer and hit the head a few times so you send a harmonic shockwave down the bolt to fracture the rust . I drilled a few 1/8 " holes to stick the little straw inside the frame and get the threads really good .
Good Luck

1985WS6transam

iTrader: (4)

Yah... about that. When I redid my rear suspension the LCA bolts "fused" into the bushing apparently and I couldnt get them out, it took me literally days of borrowing friends tools to do it. The rust will cause this. But think of it this way, once youve done it it shouldnt happen again and you will not have to worry about all that rust under there anymore.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

i haven't figured out how to drill out the bolt yet though. I thought of my kobalt drill bits but those seems off an on, one time they will work great the next they don't work for crap. This crap intimidates me worse than bad, i broke the head off and i just put the tool down and walked away. If i felt more confortable about it i would try and get the other two bolts out, and if they all broke off, i would just get an oxy/acetaline setup, heat up whats left of the bolt, get it cherry, and pull the trigger to blow a quick hole in it. Use a drill bit to make a perfect circle, and then re-thread it. But i just don't know what's going to come of that. I was soaking it two days before i even put a socket/breaker bar on it. I stuck the straw in the frame to get the threads inside. This one bolt just didn't want to come out. I got all flustered when i broke a bolt for the water outlet on the intake. At least that i got to unbolt and replace the intake. This is welded to the frame. Not exaclty simple to work with. Grrr.

GTAfanatic

iTrader: (3)

you could get that a a JY for like 20, i have a friend that parts out these cars i could prob get it from him you would have to add for S/H. it would prob run you less then 50.

you could always striating it up and then box it in. your going to need a welder though.

84redta

iTrader: (34)

yea i thought about that. I could get it like $5-$10 at a you pull it by me, but i just don't wanna go out there in the mid of winter . I've already priced a new one, i'm not terribly worried about it, the edelbrock one i'm looking at has the greesable poly bushings and such, and i'm also looking into a wonder bar and poly bushings for the rear sway bar and the torque bar bushing by the tranny. Figured that should tighten the car right up and i may even invest in SFC in the spring once she's on the road. So i'm thinking at this point get all new so i never have to screw with this darn thing again, i can enjoy it and not have it breaking down every weekend.

Well i'm off to work on the frame bar above the panhard. I have a feeling the other two bolts aren't going to be that nice either and come right out, but i can hold out hope. Otherwise then i'm going to have to figure out how to work that with three bolts broken off in the frame.

Souseless

I bought a stock replacement panhard bar from Napa for less than 50.

Azrael91966669

sorry to bring up a very old thread but i just noticed when i had my car on the lift tonight i bent my panhard in the exact same spot as in these pics lol
guess its time for aftermarket

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's REAL common; comes from curbing the car on the right side. Which is extremely easy to do... I did it to mine years and years ago in a driveway that had a real high crown, at about 2 mph, when the car slid sideways off the crown on black ice and hit the curb.

Might want to check for a bent axle, especially on the right since you have the evidence on that side, they happen the same way, and just as easy.

A weak spot in these cars, I guess.

Azrael91966669

i did check the axles they seem ok i dont remember hitting a curb at all but i cant say it never happend my gf also drives the car
ill be changing the lca and panhard out very soon

Dank Dizzle

I am not intending to hijack this thread, but I just replaced my stock, also bent, panhard bar yesterday. I put in the Founders non adjustable red bar. Before the swap, I noticed that the rear end seemed to be shifted slightly towards the drivers side of the car. I assumed it was that way because of the bent stock bar, but now with the new bar installed, the axle seems shifted towards the drivers side even more. I did notice that there is another bolt hole in the rh bracket for the bar that wasn't being used. It is located higher than the hole the bar is currently using, and does shows signs that it was being used at some point in time. Am I supposed to use the higher hole to bring the rear back over? I just bought this car about a month ago and its my first third gen. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

AM91Camaro_RS

sounds to me like you're missing the brace on the top. there's two holes in the bracket on the pass. side, right? they should both be used.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

yeah, sounds like you are missing the brace from the driverside upper frame to the passengerside panhard mount. Get one before you drive much, it will cause a stress failure without hat brace.

Dank Dizzle

Thanks guys. I just looked at Founders website and they have the relocation kit which replaces that bar. It looks like the previous owner removed the brace to make room for the "custom"(shitty) exhaust. I figured if the panhard is aftermarket, why scrounge the jy looking for a weaker stock piece? I have one on the way. Another question though, is it possible that the RH bracket has been moved inwards causing the rear to stick out? I'm thinking i may need my trusty Ford wrench when i install the brace to get it all straightened again.

AM91Camaro_RS

its doubtful that it is moved inward. you really should have an adjustable panhard bar to be able to center the rear end under the car. The rear end is not centered do to lowering springs or simply old, sagging springs. The relocating brace changes suspension geometry. these companies NEED to tell you this rather than just selling it to you "for extra clearance" like they typically do. your best bet really would be to get a stock brace. if you want the relocation one, you should get the panhard bar lowering kit for the axle side, also. this then leads to needing stiffer rear springs, too.

ZZ3 Z28

Rats, just threw one of those out not too long ago.

.

Dank Dizzle

How would the relocation bracket affect the rear if im sitting at stock height, with new stock sized springs? I can buy moog variable rate springs from my job for cheap. Would they be worth buying too in your opinion? Im not looking to lower this car anytime in the near future, I am just using it as a daily driver until I finish my 71 Camaro, then i wanna go nhra stock eliminator racing with the iroc. If you still think I need the adjustable panhard, thats gonna suck, I just bought this damn thing!

AM91Camaro_RS

The relocating brace lowers one end of the panhard bar. The bar should be level when the car is sitting still. this is basically so that when you are turning either direction, the bar won't have a jacking effect on the car. This is a very basic explanation. Also, you lower the rear roll center which necessitates stiffer rear springs. I don't know the stock rate of the springs or the rate of the variable rate springs. So, I can't really answer if they would be better. But, with a lowered panhard bar, you would need stiffer springs than stock. you don't have to get the adjustable panhard bar if you can live with the rear end being off center.

Dank Dizzle

I looked a little closer at the rear area of the car yesterday at work and noticed that it appears the car may have been hit on the side where the RH bracket is. With the car on the ground the panhard bar is pretty level to the ground. So I may need to move that bracket outward to bring the rearend back over to the right side. I'm gonna see when the new brace gets here how that lines up and install some new moog springs and go from there I guess. Thanks for your help guys!

AM91Camaro_RS

not trying to be smart but, I'd buy the adjustable PHB long before I'd mess with "moving" the bracket that's made on the chassis. I'm sure you can re-sell the new non-adjustable one you have.

Dank Dizzle

I guess I should have worded my post differently. What I mean is that the damage appears to have happened right where the chassis side bracket is. What I meant by moving is I guess more of straightening the bracket, I think it may have been tweaked and bent slightly inwards, causing the diff to stick out a little. I didn't mean like moving the bracket and re welding it or anything like that, just putting a hammer to it a little the get the bracket where it should be. Sorry for the confusion

AM91Camaro_RS

oh, ok. It its damaged, that's a different story! lol

Dank Dizzle

Ok, I got that relocation bracket in with a little trouble and a lot of banging with a hammer!. The chassis bracket was pretty damaged and bent some funny ways, but she is in. I also installed the Moog variable rate coil springs. The car sits a little higher now, but its not noticeable. I checked the bar with the car on the ground and she still is level. Also the rear end is back centered under the car. Thanks to all those who helped out!