Camatruder

I assume the ball joint has to be removed in the upward direction on this photo. Since it is defective anyway, can I just hit the bottem grease fitting with a hammer ? I can't remove the grease fitting, it just keeps on turning. Or do I need to use some kind of tube that just fits around the grease fitting and hit the bottom of the ball joint. I don't have a C-clamp (and don't know how to use it ).


Is this bushing in need of replacement or is it still OK. I'm afraid removing this is even harder than the ball joint. Sandblasting with the bushing still in is probably not a good idea.
If I get the ball joint and bushing out and powdercoat the lower control arm, will the new ball joint and bushing still fit or is it just a matter of using some sand paper then?


If I remove the brake lines and motor-bushings, can I then easely remove the crossmember and powdercoat it?

Thanks.

Shagwell

The ball joint presses out the bottom. As in downward. Most parts stores offer a "loan-a-tool" ball joint press. NOt only will it make the job considerably easier, it'll also decrease your chance of twisting/tweaking the control arm.

Hubes

I would replace those bushings. the new stuff will still fit, but if you get powdercoating in the holes you may need to sand it out. or you could put tape in the holes to keep the powdercoat out.

kcb37

You don't need to take the engine mounts out to take out the k member. The brakes lines may not have to come off. If it dosen't have a fitting on each side you will have to take that off though.
Not to making fun of you or anything, but those bushings are terrible.
I would do the engine mounts and tranny mount. If you go polly urethane then you should notice a difference. Also the best thing to do with the bushings is to take them to a shop and have them pressed out.
Clean poweder coat, then have new pressed in.

Camatruder

Well I meant that it is necessary to remove the mounts and brakes lines to be able to powdercoat them. And about the bushings, I kinda hoped that someone would say that it is no absolute must to renew them, well now I know for sure. I only drove the car ones to get it home and it had a broken spring, a broken stud, 4 different tires,... so I'm definitly gonna feel some changes when it's finished. If it ever will, because as you suspected this is the first time I restore a car (rebuild some motorbikes though but that is far mor easy). But time is on my side, because here in Belgium it is way to expensive to drive a 2.8L if it is younger than 25 years.
Also this forum is a big help.
Thanks.

Camatruder

Well as it turns out, there is no C-clamp to be found in this stinking little country. Apperently in our ugly european cars they don't replace ball joints (they throw away the piece of sh** ) This car is giving me more headaches than my wife (but I still love them both ). I went to a couple of auto parts shops, but they weren't very interested and would charge me a lot. So I'll order a C-clamp at Summit or so. But I have another question : on the bottom side of the ball joint there is something like a ring (see arrow on pic). Does it need removal first or will it come off when I use the press ?

Thanks.

naf

iTrader: (7)

That 'ring' is part of the ball joint. Everything will come out when you use the press. The c-clamp type ball joint tool will be needed to remove AND re-install new ball joints. It's also handy for u-joints.

Camatruder

Camatruder

Sorry guys but I need some help again. I'm trying to remove the other lower control arm, but one of the two bolts is very stubbern. The nut is loose, but the bolt won't come out. There's a jack just slightly supporting the LCA. I tried hitting the treaded end of the bolt with a hammer, heating things up, use already a bottle of WD40,...
I can turn the bolt 1/4 turn but it jumps right back in its original postion. Probably the bushing is broken. How can I get the bolt out ?
(Hope you understand all this because English is not my first language)

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I can't really tell, but in the first pic the end link hole seems ovaled. If so, you might fix that.

Concerning the bolt. It's no doubt seized to the sleeve in the bushing. I experienced a similar problem, one each side. With continued work--driving the head out with a chisel, shooting it with WD-40, and driving the bolt back in--it finally broke free after an hour or so. I used anti-seize when I reassembled.

By the way, your English is considerably better than some of the native speakers who frequent the site.

JamesC

Camatruder

Thanks for the compliment on the language, but the net has some very good translationsites.

On the pic the hole seems ovale, but luckely it really isn't.

So last night I worked a bit on the bolt again. When a wrench jumped off I got it in my face ending up in the doctors cabinet needing some stiches just above the eye. Well on the upcoming holiday-events I can do a perfect "I'll be back"- imitation .

There's no way I can get a chisel between the head of the bolt and the crossmember. But because of all the WD40 I used the bolt now turns rather smoothly when I use a wrench (yes I know I'm a bit clumsy). What happens is that the inner metal ring of the bushing turns with the bolt (the rubber part of the bushing stays in place). My quess is that the bolt is rusted (as in welded) on that ring.


I really appreciate any input.
Thanks.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I would look for some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. They may do more than the WD-40. I tend to use PB Blaster instead of WD-40 when disassembling stubborn parts. I don't know how available it would be to find in Belgium, though...

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Been wanting to try the following:

http://www.loctite.tv/template/ying/...SOLVSPO-EN.PDF

JamesC

Dale

iTrader: (12)

If its to the point where the metal sleve is spinning with the bolt. Your going to have to cut both ends of the bolt, and spread the cross member a bit and pull the middle section of the bolt out with the control arm. Its possible, but doubtful that just hammering on the end of the bolt will free it. Plus you will damage the bolt anyway, and needing to replace it.

I had to do this with a set of rear control arms.

Camatruder

That is exactly what is happening. I had trouble describing it. I already figured out that using more penetration oil only helps the metal sleve turning but not the bolt inside the sleve. And indeed hammering on the end of the bolt doens't help. So I'll go for your method. Thanks.

@ JamesC : I'm a big fan of all Loctite-products. They usually do the job just fine. So I'm going to order that product anyway because there are a lot rusted bolts and nuts waiting for me. I'll keep you posted if it's any good but I'm shure it is.

Thanks.