joe2844

hey guys took my car to track tonite. 9.20@80 mph in the 1/8. i have a mostly stock TPI 350 with a tci 700r4 trans and 3.73 gears with a piece of garbage powertrax locker. im runnin stock suspension with the exception of eibach sportline lowering springs. upon launching and when it shifts to second the wheel hop is unbearable, what do i do to remedy the situation?

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Lower control arm relocation brackets or LCARB for short. You can get either bolt in or weld in types from different companies. That will correct the control arm angle since you have a lowered car, helps on stock height cars too.

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

I'll 2nd that.

AlkyIROC

Lowering the car changes suspension geometry. You want the LCA parallel to the ground or up slightly at the front. Lowering the car puts the front mount lower than the rear and really screws up the geometry. Using relocation brackets allows you to lower the position of the rear mount to match the position of the front mount. Putting the rear much lower than the front can cause just as many problems.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Do you still have the stock LCA bushings or torque arm bushing?

joe2844

yes, completely stock in the rear. what brand suspension components would be best for me to use

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Poly bushings to replace the rubber ones should really help. There are some manufacturers listed in this thread to look through: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...lers-good.html

last_

weird. researching and pricing today... SKU number 210-S through SPOHN

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...Rear-Ends.html

hope that this is a long the lines of what you are looking for.. and this is a weld in piece.

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

This what I have on my car, definitely worth the couple of bucks it costs, especially if you know how to weld. I rebuilt and upgraded my rear suspension all at once, so I can't say exactly how much each part contributes, but its a world of difference. I attribute a lot of it to relo brackets.

joe2844

thanks for yall's input. ordered the spohn relocation brackets and adjustable lower control arms, will post improvments. thanks again!

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

The SportLines aren't the best spring set for drag racing either. And I'm willing to bet you have stock shocks on with the lowering springs. That's part of the problem there.

joe2844

what shocks do i need? bc i am still runnin the stock ones, i like goin to the track but i also like hittin the twisties to show the honda kids v8 cars can handle too

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It's hard to strick a balance between handling and drag racing in the shock department (or anywhere else haha). I run KONIs on my car because I like taking the twisties like you mentioned. But, at $700-800 a set, they're not for everyone. And from a pure drag racing point of view, they are too stiff for the needed weight transfer. Just as a side note, the SportLines aren't the best spring for handling purposes, either. They are a little to soft for the ride height they give you.
I would think that the most gains you'll see right now for drag racing would be in replacing the panhard bar, the lower control arms, and installing the LCARBs as mentioned. Replacing the torque arm bushing would help as well if you don't want to swing the money for a new arm. This should eleminate most of you wheel hop, then you can decide which way you want to go with the shocks.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

That won't help make the car go any faster. An adjustable one will help center the rear though.
If you have rod end LCA's, then an aftermarket panhard bar might help.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

No, it won't make the car go any faster, but it will help the car to hook up better and not have the wheel hop it has now. That will most likely lessen his 60 ft times and his ET. The stock piece has worn out rubber bushings and the bar itself flexes, so an aftermarket tubular piece would eliminate much of that. It wouldn't help as much as the LCAs and LCARBs, but I think it would in some degree.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

The only reason I could see a stock panhard bar causing wheel hop is if the rubber bushings are causing binding, but that doesn't seem very relevant because of the length of the bar.
Why does it matter if the bar and bushings flex? It shouldn't anyways, the force on the bar is minimal when going straight.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I meant flex along the length of the bar- compressing and expanding. I might be left field with this, but I would think that even this slight motion would allow unwanted movement in the rear suspension. Might not lead to wheel hop, but movement in any suspension linkage is generally unwanted. I'm probably wrong, but he also said he likes the twisties, and I know that the stock PHB isn't the best for cornering so he'd be ahead in at least that department haha.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

Ah, yes, I didn't pay attention to that. An aftermarket panhard bar will definitely help then. Even though my Camaro was my daily when I got an aftermarket panhard bar, I immediately felt the difference. Definitely worth the money if you like corners, or even if you just drive your car on the street.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I think the PHB was the first one or two things I put on my car. It surprised me how much better the car felt.

joe2844

got my parts today, track on sat weather permitting, will post improvements, thanks for your help!!