UVA3rdGen

I have a baer SS track 12 inch system upfront and the damn things really do not bite until you are going over 80 and slam on it, otherwise it really feels like the stock rear is doing most of the work and stoping is far from impressive. Is it the proportioning(spelling?) valve or is it just that the street pads I have in right now only work when really hot? I go through rear pads in like 3000 miles(very very hard driving though) and the front barely show signs of wear. Any ideas? I properly seated the front brakes and bleed them as baer recommended.

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She is not the fastest thing in a straight line but she sure will stick in the turns.
Hawian Orchid X-SCCA showroom stock 2 time national/ 1 time regional (not with me driving) champ 1LE 92 Z-28

-suspension parts include koni reds, eibach racing springs, weight-jacks, relocated control arms, and the list goes on for suspension; Port & polished TPI system sitting on top a fully blueprinted, balanced and matched race built 305; centerforce II clutch; custom 3.4 auburn rear, custom dual cat exhuast with hooker aerochamber muffler; 1LE fuel pump and gas tank; SS track baer braking system; griffin aluminum radiator; 6 point bolted roll cage with 5 point harnesses; pioneer speaker system; sparco seats, just about as light as you can get a weekly driven 3rdgen.

Macgyver

It definately sounds like a proportioning problem. The rear brakes IMO should wear at half the speed of the front brakes.

"Street" brake pads are designed to heat quickly, daily driven cars rarely have to brake at high-speed.

UVA3rdGen

It was replaced last year, but how can I calibrate it to give more pressure to the front?

Macgyver

I suggest ditching the stock one altogether, unless it's possible you have it on backwards.

Shoot, you don't have anything to lose, switch it around and see what happens.

If that doesn't help, buy an adjustable prop valve.

[This message has been edited by Macgyver (edited February 05, 2001).]